Egr - Help!
1986 F350
351W
4spd
Dually
171,000 miles.
Great running truck once it is warmed up. Runs a little rich, but not too bad. Who ever had it before disconnected and/or removed all of the "emission" "stuff". The pump is for sure gone. all of the hoses - gone - vacuum lines - gone.
What is the best way to determine what goes where once I get everything I need. Would somebody please post some pics of their engine bay? If I had disassembled it, I'd be alright but now I am at a total loss.
Thanks very much.
Best place to start is to look at the sticker on top of the radiator support; it will have a
schematic showing the routing of the hoses & devices.
Question: What is your goal/reasoning in reconnecting everything?
-chris
colorado, usa
Thanks a bunch
I have a 1981 F350 with a 400 M-block (old farm truck) where all the emissions stuff was
removed and went through the same stuff.
I'm gonna suggest you begin with two things:
- Learn your exact legal requirements.
- If necessary, find a schematic/diagram.
Because I have a 1981 truck, the requirements for me are pretty basic - they do a visual
inspection of the engine area, and all (actually, most, not all anymore) of the emissions
equipment as supplied by the factory needs to be installed and appear to be functional. The
AIR pump needs to be connected to the engine and the pulley needs to turn when the
engine is running. They don't check the EGR anymore, this is a recent mod to the laws
in the past few years here, so my EGR doesn't even need to exist anymore much less be
connected & working.
My F350 is over a certain weight - I think 8000GVW - so the truck never had any catalytic
converters on it, nor do I have any gas vapor collection stuff (charcoal canister). I'll bet
you don't, either.
After the visual comes the sniff test - it needs to pass the actual emissions tests.
Truth be told, a properly tuned & maintained engine shouldn't need the EGR & AIR to pass
the sniff test. My carb wasn't in the best of shape but I was able to pass the sniff test
by creating an intentional vacuum leak and twiddling with the idle mixture screws. It
helps that my bro has his own sniffer device but a decent mechanic/shop should be able
to help ya here. My EGR was blocked off at the manifold so it never functioned even if
it was hooked to a vacuum source.
I installed an AIR pump and routed a tube along the top of the engine where it disappeared
in the bell housing/tranny area. Got it from a junkyard off of some other truck; my M block
originally had the AIR pump connected to the intake manifold but the inspector I go to
didn't catch that it wasn't connected to there.
For the rest of the hoes & devices & such, I merely collected a bunch of vacuum hoses
& devices from various vehicles in the junkyard and installed it all on my engine in a
manner that made it appear to be functional but it wasn't, there was, in fact, no vacuum
source connected to anything whatsoever. But, there were hoses & tubes & devices
installed, and they appeared to be functional.
I as well as others have contributed a fair amount of information about this stuff already,
use the search feature and search this as well as the 335 forums (and maybe the Windsor
forums, too, though I've never posted there).
So, in a nutshell, what I suggest:
- Learn your exact requirements.
- Get your engine running well and make it pass a sniff test.
- Connect a bunch of random hoses & devices *****-nilly and make 'em appear to be functional.

Yours being a later model Windsor is almost certainly gonna be different; you can look in
a junkyard at others, or you can purchase a Ford Emissions manual for your truck from
ebay or any other seller of those factory shop manuals.
Thanks
Trending Topics
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
No sniffers around here...yet. I thought I was doing pretty good with my F100. I had it for 4 years and they never once popped the hood. Then I did the c-series, 4V, efi manifolds, and eliminated all of the egr. A week later due for inspection and that was the first thing they did.
In the state of VA, any vehicle maufactured after 1973 and equipped with any "emissions" components must have "emissions" components.
My F350 is missing everything so I'll have to put it back on just in case they pop the hood, I'll also have to put everything back on the 100 which hasn't moved in 6 months.
I went to start the 350 today and it won't idle until it has reached operating tempreture and even still it sputters a bit. I'm not sure if it's egr related, but something is not right somewhere.
get vacuum at idle, or at any RPM if it's cold, or on deceleration. If your valve is stuck
open, it won't idle well at all. Assuming it's correctly plumbed, warm up the engine and
then watch the operation of the EGR plunger after getting the RPM to about 2000 at
which time it should open. Drop it to idle and it should close; that plunger should move
approx half an inch or so.
Because of people like this, I have heard they may change the law for antique vehicles, restricting use more than it is now. The law was made for people who collect old cars and like enjoying them on the weekend or going to car shows or get togethers. Now lots of people are using the antique plates to get around inspections and fees, and driving them to work everyday. So it ruins it for everyone.
"Farm use" is another one that is abused, and the rules are getting tighter and tighter. A guy I work with that has a farm, says now you have to have a truck that is at least a certain GVW to qualify to get farm tags, because so many people abuse it.
Sorry, you hit a nerve on this one.











