ATS Compressor Housing Installed + Pics
#1
ATS Compressor Housing Installed + Pics
Well, I finally got it installed, and already had it out on a test run. My max boost is down 5 psi!! Is that normal??? I was hitting 27-28 with the stock wheel/housing but there was some surge between gears and if I let off the throttle quickly from WOT. There isn't a trace of surge, but my max boost is only 22-23!! Not too happy about that. Gotta do some more thinking here. My initial thought is to put the stock housing back on with the WW, at least until I get the injectors put in. Thoughts??
Also, I suddenly have some kind of corrosion under my hood. It's on the alternator, bracket, compressor, and turbo housing/outlet. Anyone ever seen that before??
Here is a link to the pics:
Also, I suddenly have some kind of corrosion under my hood. It's on the alternator, bracket, compressor, and turbo housing/outlet. Anyone ever seen that before??
Here is a link to the pics:
#2
Now comes the benefit of having Tony add a little more on the fuel to your maps. On my original install(before live tuning) I was at 23-25 also, then jody worked his magic and now I can hit 30 on my stock sticks. It never ends Joe. there is always one more link in the mod chain.
as far as the corrosion goes i think you may have a grounding problem. Your corroding metal is working like a sacrificial anode.
from WIKI
A sacrificial anode, or sacrificial rod, is a metallic anode used in cathodic protection where it is intended to be dissolved to protect other metallic components.
The more active metal corrodes first (hence the term "sacrificial") and generally must oxidize nearly completely before the less active metal will corrode, thus acting as a barrier against corrosion for the protected metal.
More scientifically, a sacrificial anode can be defined as a metal that is more easily oxidized than the protected metal. Electrons are stripped from the anode and conducted to the protected metal, which becomes the cathode. The cathode is protected from corroding, i.e., oxidizing, because reduction rather than oxidation takes place on its surface.
For example when zinc and iron are electrically connected in the presence of oxygen and water, the zinc will lose electrons and go into solution as zinc cations. Electrons released from the zinc atoms flow through metallic conduction to the iron where, on the surface, dissolved oxygen is reduced, by gaining the electrons released by the zinc, to hydroxide anions. Were the zinc not present, the same reduction of oxygen to hydroxide would occur on the iron surface. However in that case the electrons for reduction would be furnished by the iron, thus oxidizing the iron. Therefore, the zinc, when present,is "sacrificed" by being oxidized instead of the iron. The iron is "safe" until all of the zinc has corroded. As zinc is more costly than iron, this method of protecting iron, or steel, would not be cost effective were it not for secondary chemical reactions that form coatings on the iron surface, thus reducing the electrochemical reaction to a trickle and greatly prolonging the life of the zinc anode.
It is important to understand that for this mode of corrosion protection to function there must be simultaneously present an electron pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g.,a wire or direct contact) and an ion pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g., water or moist soil) to form a closed circuit; thus simply bolting a piece of active metal such as zinc to a less- active metal, such as mild steel, in air will not furnish any protection.
as far as the corrosion goes i think you may have a grounding problem. Your corroding metal is working like a sacrificial anode.
from WIKI
A sacrificial anode, or sacrificial rod, is a metallic anode used in cathodic protection where it is intended to be dissolved to protect other metallic components.
The more active metal corrodes first (hence the term "sacrificial") and generally must oxidize nearly completely before the less active metal will corrode, thus acting as a barrier against corrosion for the protected metal.
More scientifically, a sacrificial anode can be defined as a metal that is more easily oxidized than the protected metal. Electrons are stripped from the anode and conducted to the protected metal, which becomes the cathode. The cathode is protected from corroding, i.e., oxidizing, because reduction rather than oxidation takes place on its surface.
For example when zinc and iron are electrically connected in the presence of oxygen and water, the zinc will lose electrons and go into solution as zinc cations. Electrons released from the zinc atoms flow through metallic conduction to the iron where, on the surface, dissolved oxygen is reduced, by gaining the electrons released by the zinc, to hydroxide anions. Were the zinc not present, the same reduction of oxygen to hydroxide would occur on the iron surface. However in that case the electrons for reduction would be furnished by the iron, thus oxidizing the iron. Therefore, the zinc, when present,is "sacrificed" by being oxidized instead of the iron. The iron is "safe" until all of the zinc has corroded. As zinc is more costly than iron, this method of protecting iron, or steel, would not be cost effective were it not for secondary chemical reactions that form coatings on the iron surface, thus reducing the electrochemical reaction to a trickle and greatly prolonging the life of the zinc anode.
It is important to understand that for this mode of corrosion protection to function there must be simultaneously present an electron pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g.,a wire or direct contact) and an ion pathway between the anode and the metal to be protected (e.g., water or moist soil) to form a closed circuit; thus simply bolting a piece of active metal such as zinc to a less- active metal, such as mild steel, in air will not furnish any protection.
#3
hey joe
nice lookin housing mate, not sure about the corosion though thats a weird one,
i run the WW with a stock housing and see 23psi not having the OBA yet once i have see the engine light come on which i think is around 24/25psi. i wonder if the lower boost you are seeing is due to the bigger air gap around your compressor fins with the ATS housing so it wouldnt be pressurising the intake as much because some can get past and also letting the surge air past the wheel without putting pressure on it.
when i changed my wheel the only difference i noticed was every second fin was smaller,
i think to do the same thing, it will let the surge air out easier and keep the stress on the wheel to a minimum, mine still makes a hell of a woooosh if i back off quick from WOT
(i try not to do that much). i think the ATS is the much better fix of the two but couldn't justify the freight they wanted to charge to get it out here.so i went the cheaper alternative.
maybe wait untill you put your new injectors in and see how she does, a bit more fuel should get it back up there.
(by the way im no expert so you and others can shoot me down if my thinking is totally wrong, i wont crack the chits)..... LOL
cheers
josh
nice lookin housing mate, not sure about the corosion though thats a weird one,
i run the WW with a stock housing and see 23psi not having the OBA yet once i have see the engine light come on which i think is around 24/25psi. i wonder if the lower boost you are seeing is due to the bigger air gap around your compressor fins with the ATS housing so it wouldnt be pressurising the intake as much because some can get past and also letting the surge air past the wheel without putting pressure on it.
when i changed my wheel the only difference i noticed was every second fin was smaller,
i think to do the same thing, it will let the surge air out easier and keep the stress on the wheel to a minimum, mine still makes a hell of a woooosh if i back off quick from WOT
(i try not to do that much). i think the ATS is the much better fix of the two but couldn't justify the freight they wanted to charge to get it out here.so i went the cheaper alternative.
maybe wait untill you put your new injectors in and see how she does, a bit more fuel should get it back up there.
(by the way im no expert so you and others can shoot me down if my thinking is totally wrong, i wont crack the chits)..... LOL
cheers
josh
#4
I'm hoping it's just something I drove through during the chitty weather we had the last several weeks. I've been gone so much, I haven't even cracked my hood probably since I put the new turbo it!! It could've happened between Thanksgiving weekend and now, so who knows?!!? I sure hope it's not electrical, Brandon!
Thanks for the heads up on the boost though. I feel a little better about it now. When things slow down a little I'll give Tony a holler and see what he thinks.
Thanks for the heads up on the boost though. I feel a little better about it now. When things slow down a little I'll give Tony a holler and see what he thinks.
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#9
Joe, I think its something that has sprayed on the engine. Look at your exhaust housing, i can't see it acting like an anode.
About the boost psi, when I installed my turbo I got less boost then with the stock turbo. Now that I have the injectors, I get more boost. You need fuel to help the turbo spool.
About the boost psi, when I installed my turbo I got less boost then with the stock turbo. Now that I have the injectors, I get more boost. You need fuel to help the turbo spool.
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It's hard to explain, really. There's more when you first take off, and the high-pitch is there, but it's not like the WW, even with the stock housing. The WW has a helluva scream -- I'll bet it's SICK with the ATS over it!! I may stick it on this weekend just for fun.
#15
Right now I am getting 32#. I was told to crank down on the wastgate rod so I can get more boost. I will take the red hose off and plug it to see what I can get. I will do this tomorrow, I was going to do thid today but forgot. Joe, this thing is a beast, I will get the idleing right Monday. My truck sounds like the trucks litting at the tree, ready to race.