When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It's hard to explain, really. There's more when you first take off, and the high-pitch is there, but it's not like the WW, even with the stock housing. The WW has a helluva scream -- I'll bet it's SICK with the ATS over it!! I may stick it on this weekend just for fun.
Hey Joe, if its anything like i heard this older Powerstroke went by my house a while back, its LOUD, it sounded great if that whistle doesn't bother you. It wouldn't bother me
Joe, Im thinkin of a WW myself and was wondering how hard it is to do the install without removing the turbo. I have a little surge and figured this would be the best way to go since I dont tow much of have excessive tuning.
With my setup, when I pass people standing by the road, they always turn their head and look at me pass. When I have a load on the trailer and start from a stop, the scream is incredible. I have not had my radio on sence I had the mods.
Joe, Im thinkin of a WW myself and was wondering how hard it is to do the install without removing the turbo. I have a little surge and figured this would be the best way to go since I dont tow much of have excessive tuning.
It's not too bad. I didn't even remove the intake spider to pull the housing. Now, your stock turbo will have the wastegate on it, which makes it more challenging, but when I put my WW on, I did it without removing the turbo or disconnecting the wastegate actuator. That little C-clip is a beiotch. Since the van turbo has no wastegate, I'll never have to worry about it again.
I'll say this though -- now that I've done a turbo swap, I'd just pull the turbo. It's not that bad of a job, and you won't have to worry about that pesky wastegate clip, or figuring out the one and only one angle that will let you slip the stock wheel out and WW in with the housing still attached to the wastegate.
Youre gonna make me spend more money! I guess if I take it out Ill buy a rebuild kit. Hows that for someone who has never done it before? Need to get anything balanced?
All I would need is the pedestal o-rings to pull the turbo, correct?
Also, I suddenly have some kind of corrosion under my hood. It's on the alternator, bracket, compressor, and turbo housing/outlet. Anyone ever seen that before??
quote]
I get this a lot Joe. I am not sure it is a cathode anode thing as it seems to be directly related to rapid temp changes in conjunction with high humidity. On the other hand, it sure looks just like what happens to the anode on my boat. I am pretty sure I do not have a short so I am thinking dissimilar metal thing. I don't worry about it.
Also, I suddenly have some kind of corrosion under my hood. It's on the alternator, bracket, compressor, and turbo housing/outlet. Anyone ever seen that before??
quote]
I get this a lot Joe. I am not sure it is a cathode anode thing as it seems to be directly related to rapid temp changes in conjunction with high humidity. On the other hand, it sure looks just like what happens to the anode on my boat. I am pretty sure I do not have a short so I am thinking dissimilar metal thing. I don't worry about it.
. This is the first I have heard of this. I wish I knew more about this.
Well, I finally got it installed, and already had it out on a test run. My max boost is down 5 psi!! Is that normal??? I was hitting 27-28 with the stock wheel/housing but there was some surge between gears and if I let off the throttle quickly from WOT. There isn't a trace of surge, but my max boost is only 22-23!! Not too happy about that. Gotta do some more thinking here. My initial thought is to put the stock housing back on with the WW, at least until I get the injectors put in. Thoughts??
Joe, is the truck down on power? Perhaps your charge is cooler now providing less boost but the same amount of air. 5 PSI seems to be more than I would expect though.
Youre gonna make me spend more money! I guess if I take it out Ill buy a rebuild kit. Hows that for someone who has never done it before? Need to get anything balanced?
All I would need is the pedestal o-rings to pull the turbo, correct?
It's super-easy, but those bolts are a beiotch to get out. I really though I was going to break the little 1/4" drive socket, but it broke loose! Took about everything I had to get some of 'em out, too.
Yes, you'll need an O-ring kit if you're just pulling it. If you get the rebuild kit from Ron, it'll have all the O-rings you need. Consider gutting the pedestal & removing the EBPV, too while you're there. It'll save an oil leak later. Tell Ron you doing that and have him include another set of O-rings. Heck, I suggest you pull the pedestal and replace the O-rings anyway.
Joe, is the truck down on power? Perhaps your charge is cooler now providing less boost but the same amount of air. 5 PSI seems to be more than I would expect though.
I'll know better when I get it on the interstate and can open it up a little. It may be a temp thing -- now I really wish I had AE. I would've been able to tell...
Glad to here you got the ATS housing on Joe, is there more whistle with it on there also??? or is that just with the WW ATS combo?? Hey Brandon, thats one heck of a writeup, wow.
Thanks Mike, but I cant take credit, I copied and pasted it from WIKIpedia
You can gut your pedestal and stock outlet for nearly nothing!! I just bought the blank pedestal, but you can tap the hold the arm comes out of and screw in a bolt to plug it. All you need to gut the stock outlet is a small freeze plug.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.