Wow this site is the sh**! I just joined yesterday and what a help it has been already. I have a problem with my tranny that just started a few weeks ago. It revs really high in 1st and then finally SLIPS into second and spins most of the way through second before it catches third and then on its perfectly normal. If I take off with the lever in 2, it seems to drive fine in second gear and just barely slips when catching third. It only does this after you run it hard or when the truck is warm after driving a good while. I read another post that said something about the shift valve being stuck or dirty. I recently changed the fluid and filter and that solved the problem for two days and now its back. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Brad

 

Its worth a shot to take down the accumulator valve body.
Its the one in the front of the pan. Remove the parts from
it and check for binding. Replace or burnish as needed.
You could of allready hurt the clutches.

Bill

 

 

And if you take it down you might as well do the C00n mod.

 

Ok Joe thanks for the pics and info man, rep sent. I have another question, when i pull the accumulator body down is stuff gonna come flying out like springs and check ***** or what? Also what is the mod people are talking about doing while inside there and will it be safe to do with my current mods? Maybe if you had a picture of that for me to compare to that would be great.
My mods are as follows since I cant figure out how to get my signature on the posts LOL!

96 250 4x4 140v IDM, FPR BB Shim, AFE Stage 2, 3"Dp 4" straight pipe, Edge Evolution 100hp

somewhere i read that it isnt good to mix a chip with internal mods to an E4OD such as a shift kit. Thats why i ask,

Thanks again

Brad

 

Signatures come availible after 25 posts.

No stuff will fly out when you remove the ACC body just bring it down easy so you don't rip the gasket.

You can do Joe's mod with your Evo but for the record I think there are safer ways to mod the body though they will cost you $50-100. Just a warning that once you drill holes they are hard to take back or make smaller.

I am sorry that I keep posting that but I don't want them to come back then give them the warnings. Nothing personal Joe.....

 

Thanks tim I'm gonna attempt to take it down this weekend and I will let u know what I find. Thanks again for the pics as well joe.

 

Ok guys I finally got some time to tinker with the tranny this weekend and I successfully took the accumulator body down and cleaned it out. Though it wasnt totally plugged up it was definitely in need of cleaning. I did that and then installed a new filter and fluid yet AGAIN. After my test drive everything seemed to be acting better it was shifting just fine with no problems. But again as soon as the truck was nice and warm (10 min after leaving the house) the same problems arose again. Let me explain them in detail so that hopefully you guys can help me.

If i take off in OD the truck will hold 1st gear til well after 3k rpm, then finally shift into second but second will never fully engage enough to increase speed. then after 3k rpm again it will snap your neck and a u joint and go into 3rd gear. from that point on everything is perfect. Now another thing is that if I am stopped and put the selector in "2" i can take off in second just fine with as much throttle as i want and it will shift into 3rd and move on down the road just fine. The only problem is going from first to second.

could this be caused by trash in the shift solenoid? a problem with the pcm voltage to the tranny?

Im stumped yet again fellas, if you can help that would be great cuz i definately dont have the money for a rebuild right now!!

Brad

96 250 4x4 SC LB 228k E4OD, Edge Evolution, FPR Shim, 140v IDM, 3"dp 4" straight pipe, AFE stage 2 CAI,

 

im having the same thing happen to me i just got the truck with this prob but my over drive light is flashing and i have no over drive any help would be great thanks and i cant seem to find that link for the coon mod for the valve body



my truck has 300k 3in down pipe,4in exh staight piped,and a torq line chip

 

Hey CJ try this thread to see if that is what you need, Between TJ and Coon they have almost all the answers so good luck to you man.

Brad

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-body-ese.html

 

Does anybody know the end result of this thread? What was the final fix, a rebuild???

 

In second gear, there are two different ways of holding the gear.

There is an intermediate clutch that holds the sun gear of the back two planetaries stationary through an overrunning clutch.There is also a band brake that holds the sun gears in place directly instead of going through the overrunning clutch. The intermediate is being used as a brake, but is called a clutch since it's a multi-plate pack.

The purpose of the overrunning clutch is that when going form 2nd to direct, the transmission just engages the direct clutch and the overrunning clutch lets the sun gear start spinning forward as the gear set starts spinning all together in direct. That way the shift doesn't have to coordinate the release of one clutch and grabbing the other. The overrunning clutch would prevent compression braking however. If the transmission is in 2nd and you start coasting faster, the overrunning clutch lets the sun gear start spinning and the transmission would free-wheel. So Ford puts in an additional band brake that forces the sun gear to stay put going either forwards or backwards.

If you put the transmission in manual second, this second brake engages after a short time delay. This delay is there so the previous gear can fully disengage before the brake kicks in to prevent the transmission from binding up. If you manually shift while sending power back, this extra brake is normally not noticeable because the overrunning clutch catches it. You notice the the delay when you downshift... you're in drive and drop it to 2nd; the RPMs drop down when the direct clutch releases and you're freewheeling on the overrunning clutch. Then the intermediate brake kicks in and the RPMs rise.

Note I said "normally" above. What's happening is that your intermediate clutch is shot. But your intermediate brake band is still OK. After the delay, the intermediate band kicks in and then it stops the slipping if you put it in manual 2nd.

 

Update!! just fyi since you were asking, I did go with a rebuilt unit. I got the towmaster tranny from John Wood Automotive in CA. Very knowledgable guy and very helpful as well. Now if I can just keep a converter in the damn thing i will be doing good!