I have a different excursion door lock problem. It is a 2001 Excursion limited V-10.

All of the doors will lock fine, they do not lose strength or anything else like when the actuators are going bad. They just won't unlock.

The drivers door will unlock when using the key fob or the door number pad. It will not unlock using either inside door switch. It locks fine.

I did not find any blown fuses. This started about 6 months after I repaired the actuators. The other doors don't even click or anything else when unlocking with the fob, the only noise is from the driver's side door and somewhere under the dash. I get no noises from anywhere when using the switches inside.

Cliff's notes
-inside door lock switches don't unlock doors, locking is fine
-drivers door will unlock with fob and number pad, other doors will not unlock

 

Probably the driver side door switch. I believe the driver side switch feeds the passenger side switch. I believe the switches are interchangeble. If you swap them and the driver side works and the passenger does not, you have found the problem. If not........

DSMMH

 

Thank you for the reply. I tried swapping them side to side and they did the exact same thing.

I called the parts department at the local Ford place and the switches are ~$40 and they have to order them so I would rather not start buying those unless I am sure that is the problem.

Tonight I will try to figure out what to jump in order to fake a lock signal from the switch and try that. Is anyone sure that the driver's side feeds the passenger side switch or vice-versa? I guess I can just jump both sides, one at a time. My only concern right now is that there are two posts on that connector that might be a ground and if they don't have ground, it wouldn't work anyways. I guess I need to start going through wiring diagrams.

 

Silly question...

When you try the key fob...you press it twice in close succession to each other to open ALL the doors...first press unlocks just the drivers door and second press all the doors.

Second...with the number pad...after you enter your 5 digit number are you then simultaneously pressing the first two buttons which unlocks ALL doors? Simply putting in the keycode only unlocks the drivers door...pressing the first two buttons unlocks them all. BTW...pressing the last two LOCKS them all.

Just curious as it was odd that only the drivers door was working with ALL the methods you were trying.

I would try taking one switch completely out of the loop. Meaning take out the drivers door switch and see if the passengers works by itself. If it does...swap it into the drivers spot and keep the passengers out of the loop (i.e. pull the connector off)...

Good luck,
Joe.

 

Not a silly question at all, but yes I am pressing the button twice for the all door unlock on both the fob and the number pad.

It had been working fine for a long time and then in the middle of one day it just stopped. Also, both inside switches will not unlock any door.

In a few minutes I will wander out to the parking lot again and try each lock individually. Thanks for the advice.

 

Wren
I have one rear door that doesn't want unlock and it boils down to the fact that the door actuator doesn't make the needed full travel to let the passenger open the door. The locking **** by the window moves up but not enough you have to pull it up for that extra 1/4 inch of travel. Does your lock ***** move at all when using the fob, keypad or drivers unlock switch?
GregM

 

they do not budge, they do not make any noise at all. they all act like they never got the signal from the fob.

I am pretty confident this is some kind of electrical problem since the fob and key pad will unlock the driver's door but no other and inside door switches won't unlock any door and the fob, key pad, and inside switches will lock all doors perfectly.

 

OK, just to eliminate the possibility; did you recheck all of the connections, including the actuator connectors themselves? Also, check the wires to make sure none of them pulled out when you were working on the actuators.

If you have a amp meter you could check and make sure that the power is actually getting to the actuator and work backwards from there - I'm no electrical guru, but I'm sure someone could chime in if you have more questions on that.

 

I ended up taking it to the dealer to get it fixed.

I wanted to update this thread with what the fix was in case someone else comes across this thread in the future.

One of the relays under the dash was bad, from what the dealership told me, there are two of them under there that affect the door locks.

The guilty part was part # 14N089 if I am reading my receipt correctly.