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heads , head gaskets ? please help

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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 04:51 PM
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Angry heads , head gaskets ? please help

My head gaskets have blown and i'm stuck with no option but to rebuild by myself . While doing so iwant to put on better parts ,so im looking for help here .I would like to know is there any after market head to replace the factory crap. im going to be rebuilding my 03 so im looking for tips if anyone has any for me . I def cannot afford the ten grand for the bill at the ford dealership . lifting the cab off the frame is a joke in itself . Ive been reading a few threads of guys who have found gouges and cracks in there factory heads . Now we spend big dollars buying these trucks and we have to find out with major expensive non warranteed or recalled problems like this . Its just plain out wrong . Ford is laughing all the way to the bank.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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dcaddi2
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The main problem isn't the head. It is the head bolt from the factory.
If you use ARP head studs, and the heads and the block is flat, you are not going to face head gasket problem again. Don't know about the heads, but I didn't hear anyone having any problem after studding. Based on the job done correctly.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 05:46 PM
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06silvercrew
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Yeah, its not the heads, its the stock TTY bolts that stretch and the head lifts off the block. When this happens and the heat cycles they can become "warped". Once you have them off you will HAVE to check the head surface and deck surface with a GOOD machinest straight edge. If all checks out ok, all you need is a new set of stock gaskets and a set of ARP head studs and the problem is solved and ready for anything. Obviously you will need other various gaskets, seals, o-rings, copper wahsers etc to do the job.

Lifting the cab is by far the easiest and less time consuming way to do it, however its not the only way.

Where are you located at? Let us know which route you go!

Scott
 
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Old Dec 29, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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Just curious How would you lift the cab in your driveway seeing how not everybody has a 5grand post lift at there house.. I feel for anyone who does there work on there knees on the radiator support like me.. Its back wearing work.

I could not imagine having to do a cyl head R&R like this, It would be a challenge to torque them in the proper steps..
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:23 AM
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thanks

Originally Posted by 06silvercrew
Yeah, its not the heads, its the stock TTY bolts that stretch and the head lifts off the block. When this happens and the heat cycles they can become "warped". Once you have them off you will HAVE to check the head surface and deck surface with a GOOD machinest straight edge. If all checks out ok, all you need is a new set of stock gaskets and a set of ARP head studs and the problem is solved and ready for anything. Obviously you will need other various gaskets, seals, o-rings, copper wahsers etc to do the job.

Lifting the cab is by far the easiest and less time consuming way to do it, however its not the only way.

Where are you located at? Let us know which route you go!

Scott
hey thanks alot scott this is a great help . I live in kelowna ,bc canada . I 'm planning to start this fix at the end of jan ill let you guys know how it goes . one other thing where do i get a better detailed breakdown of a full rebuild on my truck i have a haynes guide but its pretty vague
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 12:26 AM
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yah well treetech i'm planning on jacking the cab up approx. 8-10 inches and block it up in the garage . trust me if i could afford the fix bill i wouldnt be doing this .
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 01:50 AM
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yeah i def agree with 06silvercrew. get your heads tested one way or another before you spend all the time and money. i had mine flux tested when my head gaskets blew (i think they blew because my turbo was sticking and overboosted). after the flux test i got the news that both heads were cracked (truck was 99% stock only an exhaust). bad news because heads are freaking expensive but good news that i didn't pay for all the work to be done and then blow them soon again because i didn't get them checked.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:15 AM
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Im taking my heads off my 03 6.0 at 80,000 on it my turbo was whinning badly so since I had everything off im goin ahead and replacing the head gaskets and studding the heads since I cant keep antifreeze in it and it wont stop overheating. They must be blowed between the cylinders?
I just took half of the fan box off which made it much easier to get to the lower head bolts. I started on it about 12:00 and at 8:00 the heads were almost ready to come off.
The only problem I have and hopefully someone can give me some advice is I cant get the high pressure fuel line loose? Should I do a EGR delete since I already have it off to?
tiger31 Elite diesel performance has heads ready with O-rings for $700 each plus a core charge.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:55 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by tobacco farmer
Im taking my heads off my 03 6.0 at 80,000 on it my turbo was whinning badly so since I had everything off im goin ahead and replacing the head gaskets and studding the heads since I cant keep antifreeze in it and it wont stop overheating. They must be blowed between the cylinders?
I just took half of the fan box off which made it much easier to get to the lower head bolts. I started on it about 12:00 and at 8:00 the heads were almost ready to come off.
The only problem I have and hopefully someone can give me some advice is I cant get the high pressure fuel line loose? Should I do a EGR delete since I already have it off to?
tiger31 Elite diesel performance has heads ready with O-rings for $700 each plus a core charge.
A lot of these engines weren't torqued right at the factory so after time and high boosting the bolts will stretch. Eventually they stretch enough to let the coolant by; the gaskets don't actually break. Since you are taking yours apart please take some pictures of your gaskets and post them in your gallery, and other pics of your engine parts!! And welcome back Tobacco Farmer!! Someone will be around soon to help you with the fuel line issue.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 05:15 PM
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I think you talking about the high pressure oil line, what feeds the oil rail on the top of the injectors.
If that's the one there is a special tool, what you stick between the plastic ring and the metal shoulder at the STC fitting. I made my own tool from an air tool wrench, but be careful, don't bust it up.
Unfortunately if the bolts are stretching and the gasket let the coolant by, the head gaskets are actually break. The combustion pressure is way higher, than the coolant pressure ( that's why you blow the coolant ) , and it burns through.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:14 PM
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dcaddi2 that is exactly what I ended up doing I used the same thing had to grind a little off of it but it worked great.
Just as I thought the head gasket on the passenger side was blown between 6-8 cylinders. The other had to spots that was letting cumbustion into the water jackets.
I have pictures in my gallery if you would like to look. Thanks
 
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 08:45 PM
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06silvercrew
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Originally Posted by triggr31
hey thanks alot scott this is a great help . I live in kelowna ,bc canada . I 'm planning to start this fix at the end of jan ill let you guys know how it goes . one other thing where do i get a better detailed breakdown of a full rebuild on my truck i have a haynes guide but its pretty vague

No problem. Yeah I forgot to mention to get the heads checked at a machine shop once they are off to make sure they arent cracked. PM me your email address and Ill try to email you the step by step instructions from alldata for cylinder head R&R.
 
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