Interior Panel Fabrication & Fastening
#1
Interior Panel Fabrication & Fastening
I have a 1955 F-100 I'm doing the interior on right now. I have already cut/fitted the door panels and kick panels from ABS plastic. I want to make a detail on the door panels where it changes from vinyl to tweed (just a straight line about 8 in down from the top of the panel). I do not have access to an industrial sewing machine and would like to do it w/o sewing.
Looking at a roddoors how-to, they cut the panel at the joint line and then cover each piece individually and reconnect them using panel tabs (RodDoors Custom Car Interior Systems & Componets). Has anyone done this, and was it a success? Did the panel tab cause the door panel to stick out when it was installed? Does anyone have another sweet no-sew way to make these panels?
Also, I have read/heard alot about using dual lock (velcro type mat'l) to hold the door panels in place. Has anyone done this on their door panels? I did a test run with dual lock and it looks like it will hold the panel solidly, but it leaves a large gap btween the panel and the surface, due to its thickness. Anyone have a way to get around this?
Are there any other recommendations for fasteners to hold the panel in place. I have used the metal type thru-door clips before and they always seem to give me problems as well as tear through the door panel and render themselves useless. I read about using the GM plastic style clips (Crest Midwest Catalog) but I'm skeptical of plastic clips. Anyone have any opinion on these? Anyone have any better suggestions?
Thanks
Looking at a roddoors how-to, they cut the panel at the joint line and then cover each piece individually and reconnect them using panel tabs (RodDoors Custom Car Interior Systems & Componets). Has anyone done this, and was it a success? Did the panel tab cause the door panel to stick out when it was installed? Does anyone have another sweet no-sew way to make these panels?
Also, I have read/heard alot about using dual lock (velcro type mat'l) to hold the door panels in place. Has anyone done this on their door panels? I did a test run with dual lock and it looks like it will hold the panel solidly, but it leaves a large gap btween the panel and the surface, due to its thickness. Anyone have a way to get around this?
Are there any other recommendations for fasteners to hold the panel in place. I have used the metal type thru-door clips before and they always seem to give me problems as well as tear through the door panel and render themselves useless. I read about using the GM plastic style clips (Crest Midwest Catalog) but I'm skeptical of plastic clips. Anyone have any opinion on these? Anyone have any better suggestions?
Thanks
#4
I didn't do any sewing on my door panels---I used a one-piece 1/8 hardboard backing, 1/2" foam and 1/4" staples...I covered the top eight inches with a plaid cloth and the rest with vinyl...I ran the cloth about 9" down from the top and stapled it to the hardboard...For the vinyl, after setting it in place, I flipped it up like a calender page so it was finish side down. I laid it so it was about 1/2" below where I wanted the two materials to meet...Then I stapled a 1/2" posterboard-type strip that you can get an an upholstery shop for 10 cents a piece,through the 1/2" of excess vinyl and excess cloth part and into the hardboard...This gave the panel a nice, clean straight edge where the two materials joined...Then pull the vinyl back down and staple the rest to the hardboard...Good and confused now?
#5
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: I live in Leitchfield, KY
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Hey dude, the above described process is called"tabbing" the cardboard material comes in a roll, and is about 3/4" wide and about 1/16" thick. It is the BEST way to do what you want to do and with no sewing. As for the clips, the best way to do that is what I call Ford clips. They are made of wire and are offset. I usually screw the panel to the truck door with drywall screws, and while its in place, then measure evenly and carefully around the latch assembly and drill 1/8" holes through the panel and the door. (remove the door panel) After you do that, take one of the offset clips out of the box and line up the cross legged part with the hole you drilled in the panel, and make a mark at the end of the clip on the panel. (usually around 5/8" from the hole) drill another hole about 5/16" in dia. This will be where you insert the clip. After you've done this you need to drill the 1/8" hole in the metal of the door out to 1/4" for the clip to go into. If you look in my gallery you may see the door panels on a '56 we did last year. I don know if you can see the clips or not? I think the pics are under misc?
These clips are available from Fastenall. I dont know the part# off the top of my head right now, but will try to remember to get it for you tomorrow and post it for ya. If you need any help please feel free to email me directly at trucks1956@yahoo.com or pm me from here
GOD bless
These clips are available from Fastenall. I dont know the part# off the top of my head right now, but will try to remember to get it for you tomorrow and post it for ya. If you need any help please feel free to email me directly at trucks1956@yahoo.com or pm me from here
GOD bless
#6
Well, I'm getting closer to having my interior done. I finished my seat, door panels, and kick panels. I upholstered the door panels as described above and used the 'tabbing' method described to create a seperation of materials. I used 1/8" ABS for the panel, then covered it with 1/8" foam, and then the upholstery over that. I used ~1/16" thick ABS for the tabbing stip because thats what I had lying around. I attached it to the door with plastic push-in clips like the ones from crest midwest I linked above. I actually bought the same fasteners from fastenal for about 1/3 the price as crest midwest. You can see pictures of where I'm at in my gallery about upholstery. Thanks for the suggestions.
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