Emergancy Brake
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More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2007
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Emergancy Brake
Okay, I have a 98 F-250LD with 10.25 axle. I had new rear brake shoes put on about two months ago. While there we had to replace one drum cause the rivets from the shoes had damaged the drum but only on the outsides of the shoe. The inside was like a hill with hardly any wear, so we just relpaced everything and called it good.
Since then I have been having a problem with my ebrake not releasing all the way. I thought it would go away but it hasn't. It only happens about half the times I use my ebrake. After releasing the brake and I put the truck in drive it doesn't want to move. I have to gas it even on a downhill slope. If I let off the gas I slow down quickly, but after some miles of driving like this it goes away.
Any ideas why? I have already brought my new shoes adjusted in some thinking they might have been adjusted to far out, but that was a month ago. Thanks
Since then I have been having a problem with my ebrake not releasing all the way. I thought it would go away but it hasn't. It only happens about half the times I use my ebrake. After releasing the brake and I put the truck in drive it doesn't want to move. I have to gas it even on a downhill slope. If I let off the gas I slow down quickly, but after some miles of driving like this it goes away.
Any ideas why? I have already brought my new shoes adjusted in some thinking they might have been adjusted to far out, but that was a month ago. Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 467
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From: Where the war is...
I just replaced both cables and the entire pbrake assembly on both sides. Everything was rusted badly. One part that you should pull out and sand/wire brush down is the lever actuator assembly that connects to the cable end, especially the driver side rear; it sticks through the brake backing plate. There are two pieces; the one piece that connects to the cable sits on top of the other piece that pushes the top of the two shoes apart. Pull those two out and clean them up. Mine were frozen from rust. If they stick/freeze when the cable is pulled, the shoes will drag. Also check the rubber boot where the lever pushes through to the back side; mine was torn a bit because it had disintegrated, which is probably how water got into the brake mechanism and accelerated the rust (some water can get in there no matter what, but a lot of it will destroy the brakes fast). Use a lot of white lithium grease to lube the new brake shoe holding and actuation parts and also to fill in or seal the holes where water can get in. Hope this helps. Again, I think it may be your cable end actuator is rusted.
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