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I mentioned this in another thread but didn't really get any answers, but I need some.
Here's the deal, for those that didn't read it before:
My return lines were leaking at passenger side tee for a couple weeks before I had a chance to get at them.
A couple days before I planned to do the return line job, I went to start the truck one morning and the diesel, along with the other gunk around the glow plug on that cylinder (3rd one back from the front on passenger side), caught on fire when the glow plugs came on, and burned for a few seconds before I could find something to put the fire out.
While doing the return lines, I checked out that glow plug, and found that the fire had burned all the insulation off the wire to the glow plug, and the connector had broken off. I attempted to splice in a piece of wire, with a flipped around 10 gauge spade terminal slipped over the glow plug terminal (i.e. the part the wire usually goes in was connected to the glow plug).
After I finished the return lines, I turned the key to start the truck and the glow plugs came on. When they did, smoke rolled off the spliced wire so I shut it off and looked at it. Shortly after that, turned the key again, no smoke, and the wait to start light stayed on for just a couple seconds, so I know that glow plug isn't working.
I really need to fix this, because I know I am killing the starter on this thing. If I plug it in for three hours, it's still pretty easy to start on cold mornings, but if I don't, it sucks. Last night I went to my girlfriend's parents house for a party and the temperature went down to about 12 degrees, and I couldn't get close enough to the house to plug it in. I got it to start, but I had to crank it for about 20 seconds to get it there. She's bugging me to spend the night with her tonight, and it's supposed to go down to about 10 degrees again and I KNOW I can't plug it in at her place.
Sigh....certainly picked the best time of the year for a glow plug to die
Part of the problem here is the fact that the GP wiring harness is so hard to get at, since it's buried down beneath the injector lines and return lines.
To fix the wire clean twist and solder it together (do not shorten too much), after you have placed the correct size of heat shrink covering over the bare wire repair, shrink it. Now install the GP end.
Is that done with a multimeter? Sorry, not always the most experienced when it comes to troubleshooting electrical circuits (despite my dad being an electrician).
Sorry, I dunno about posting pics of my girlfriend unless I get this fixed
Pictures before more info. seriously though I'm thinking ohm meter but I'm not sure because the way they work is basically a short so I'm not sure how to check it for a short. Somebody that brain is working will chime in maybe waiting for them pictures though lol.
OK since your love life is on the line you might try making a jumper from the glow plug to the hot side to the battery and see if it heats the wire super quick dont leave it on for over 6 or 7 seconds that should be plenty and have a pair of pliars or something handy to pull it off the battery in case it starts melting.
you measure the resistance between the blade where the wire hooks to it and the body.
You have to have a pretty good ohm meter the one I've got will read 0 on a brand new one when it should be .5 to 1.
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