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I will be upgrading the lighting on my truck (1997 F350 CC) and have a few questions.
<O</O 1. Where is the best place to tap into the positive side? a. Starter solenoid b. Battery c. Alternator
<O</O 2. Is the frame rail adequate for a ground or should I bring it back to the Battery or Alternator body?
<O</O 3. Who makes a good heavy gage wiring harness with relay that replaces the stock headlight harness?
<O</O 4. Do they make one with an extra relay and switch for auxiliary lights?
<O</O 5. I want my driving lights to come on with the high beams. What is the high beam color code and where should I tap the driving lights relay into it?
6. How many watts can I run and not over load the system?
I hope that's not to many questions for one post I'm trying to get this all sorted out before leaving on a road trip the day after Christmas.
1.A
2.Frame rail or any clean(metal on metal bolt)....most lights are self grounding.
3.4. Don't know...for the driving lights buy that companies harness
5.Tjbeggs has all wiring diagrams in his gallery....I am on my phone so do not have the links with me.I have mine wired in with my parking lights and also on a switch.
6.All the lights will be 12v...the higher end HID have their own ballast. You should be fine with whatever you get
Ron- so he could run 50 auxilary lights and still not overload the system? (that numbers a little rediculus but thats what poped into my head first haha)
5.Tjbeggs has all wiring diagrams in his gallery....I am on my phone so do not have the links with me.I have mine wired in with my parking lights and also on a switch.
HaHa. On your phone. I used to surf FTE on my crackberry when I had it. Everybody gave me a hard time saying I was addicted to the site. I said yup! Now is my turn to give you a hard time. Na nana naa naa.
Ron- so he could run 50 auxilary lights and still not overload the system? (that numbers a little rediculus but thats what poped into my head first haha)
With relays the number of lights and sizes is almost unlimited. Well that is till you over load the fuse box, but even then just get another one.
HaHa. On your phone. I used to surf FTE on my crackberry when I had it. Everybody gave me a hard time saying I was addicted to the site. I said yup! Now is my turn to give you a hard time. Na nana naa naa.
I am still on the damn thing....laptop has over 300 viruses. Hopfully I should have it back today.
Crackberry huh....I am going to have to remember that.The past few days have felt like that since the puter is down.
Thanks for all the info and links. I'm confident that I can do a fairly professional install now.
I found a cool Waytek catalog with lots of good automotive wiring supplies including Contura rocker switches, Delphi sealed connectors and and a good selection of auxillary fuse blocks.
I just noticed I said to go to the starter solenoid for power....that is very WRONG...LOL
Go to the + on the battery....sorry about that
I have it wired from the parking lights to the relay to turn on the lights...then my rocker switch after the relay if I don't want them on
Ron86toy, The more I think about it it’s probably not terribly critical where we tap our lights in at. The battery post gets us closer to the power source but I think it could be argued that if we’re trying to get closer to the power source we should tap in at the alternator.
<O</O I like your idea of tapping the relay power into the parking lights because it affords the option of running the auxiliary lights with just the parking lights on.
The nice things with our trucks is that we can go to either side of the troc to mount the relays close to the batt.
I have 3 batteries in my Toyota...1 is dedicated for the winch and aux lighting(8 lights under the truck),the stock located one is for the truck and a back up in case the alternater goes in the middle of nowhere(will be hooked to the rear winch when figure out how/where to mount it)