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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Drip, drip, drip

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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 11:16 PM
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Drip, drip, drip

Does anybody know how long a water pump can drip before it gets bad enough before you have to replace it? Its dripping from the seal at the pulley. The pulley on the water pump does not wobble. I just replaced it about 30K ago, surprised it didn't last longer. Perhaps I got a cheap one, I don't remember where I got it. Also, does anybody know of a brand or part # of the best water pump? I don't feel like replaceing this every other year. The reason I'm asking all this is because I'm 3,000 miles away from home and have had enough problems already. Had to have the trans rebuilt, busted the leaf springs on the 5er and almost lost the rear axle out the rear end of the camper. That would have made a heck of a pile up on the freeway!!! One last thing, my OBS is kicking *** up the mountains. I can see the look on some of the faces of the well-to-do, nose in the air snobs with 3 hundred thousand dollar diesel pushers. I can also see their jaws drop when I blow by them on a six percent mountain grade pulling my 15K 5er. Who cares if its 13 years old, it runs like a champ. Saying this, I hope I didn't jinx myself!
 
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 11:23 PM
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a leaking weep hole on the water pump could go 6 months or 6 minutes. there is no way to put a time on it. i got my replacement from advance auto, its been on it for about 100k, give or take, i'd have to look it up to be exact.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by c00nhunterjoe
a leaking weep hole on the water pump could go 6 months or 6 minutes. there is no way to put a time on it. i got my replacement from advance auto, its been on it for about 100k, give or take, i'd have to look it up to be exact.
Thanks for that input, anybody else?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:38 AM
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mine lasted 38 miles, I dont think I need to go any further into the subject, do I?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 11:07 AM
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Altho I have never heard of it happening on a 7.3 but on gassers I have known the fan/pump shaft to move forward taking out the radiator if the shaft seizes/breaks.

Also, almost instantaneous water lose can occur. Your call.

I bought a "New Pump", not reman. from Napa with a life time warranty for a little over $100.00 if I recall.

It's not worth the gamble. IMHO.

Rog
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 11:27 AM
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38 miles, I would be pissed!! Napa it is!! Thanks
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Bird

Losen the cap so the system will not build pressure.
It may not leak without pressure. I made it this way for
a few months before i changed the pump.

Bill
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 12:16 PM
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Mine leaked for about 1 year but only after the engine cooled down. Not much though just a small spot on the driveway in the morning. I replaced it a few months ago. Get a new pump and not re manufactured. I've never had much luck with the re manufactured water pumps lasting very long. I think I paid about $170 for a new one compared to $100 for the re manufactured pump. Also make sure you use the proper antifreeze and additive for our vehicles as that can cause premature pump failure.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Hussler
Mine leaked for about 1 year but only after the engine cooled down. Not much though just a small spot on the driveway in the morning. I replaced it a few months ago. Get a new pump and not re manufactured. I've never had much luck with the re manufactured water pumps lasting very long. I think I paid about $170 for a new one compared to $100 for the re manufactured pump. Also make sure you use the proper antifreeze and additive for our vehicles as that can cause premature pump failure.
Jim,

You're using a 302 stat? How is that working out? Did you have to make any modifications to the T-Stat housing?

, but I had to ask.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:27 PM
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mine lasted about about 60 miles. just enough to get off the side of a mountain during hunting season and home to change it out
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:34 PM
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If its dripping it time to replace,,,,, mine was NAPA ,new not remanufactured, lifetime warrentee at 178 .........

BTW not that big of a job but a big plus is that the radiator does not need to come out, plenty of room......

Rent the fan tool too , it will save you time and grief........
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by IDMooseMan
Jim,

You're using a 302 stat? How is that working out? Did you have to make any modifications to the T-Stat housing?

, but I had to ask.
It is working great. Wish I had put on a long time ago but waited until I put the new water pump on. No mods required just put it in there. I did order a new pump to upper hose housing however that leaked bad at the T-Stat housing so removed it and used the original one because it was in real good shape. Don't have gauges yet and best I could do was "o" in "Normal" and now I'm just a bit above the 'r' all the time. These old bones tell me it is working much better in the heat department as now I have to turn it down a bit or it will run you out of the truck.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MADVAN
Bird

Losen the cap so the system will not build pressure.
It may not leak without pressure. I made it this way for
a few months before i changed the pump.

Bill
Thanks guys, I just wanted to wait until after the first of the year when I'll be in one spot for a couple of weeks. I've done the job before, no big deal. Losen the cap huh Bill, will that effect the temp's very much? Sounds like a plan. I've busted a radiator before like memtioned, hope that doesn't happen. A set of leaf springs busted clean through throwing the axle up against the front axle was a thrill enough!!
 
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