Factory tach??
Could you scan it in and email Quigoline? My van is a 95 E350 (96 titled) bus conversion with 460/e40d.
Could you clear up on how the cluster from the f-series was install to your e-series dash. Or did you swap out the guages from one to the other? Got me thinking of a junkyard run now....!
Could you clear up on how the cluster from the f-series was install to your e-series dash. Or did you swap out the guages from one to the other? Got me thinking of a junkyard run now....!
scan
I'm alot better with a set of wrenches than a keyboard and mouse but.....I'll give it ago asap...my E-350 started out 2wd...now it's a Quigly clone (also used a donor van... 2 yrs ago)
as far as the swap goes...the whole gauge cluster is in the same size and shape housing as our E cluster...our battery and fuel gauge is moved to the left of the speedo.. (all four gauges are to the left of the speedo)..just the tach to the right ....just like Bill's picture.
After removing the bezel assembly unplug three?? harnesses, take out four ??screws from the back and re-install the F series cluster on the back of your bezel....simple...(for some room to work I left the bezel off till I had everything functioning properly)
the wiring ( moving wires around in your pin connectors ) cross referencing colors and funtions...took alittle time...no Buds that day...notepad..
what be that e-mail address should I be able to scan these pages???..(worst case my grandkids will be around this weekend..someone has to know how to send them to you)
Happy hunting...Al
as far as the swap goes...the whole gauge cluster is in the same size and shape housing as our E cluster...our battery and fuel gauge is moved to the left of the speedo.. (all four gauges are to the left of the speedo)..just the tach to the right ....just like Bill's picture.
After removing the bezel assembly unplug three?? harnesses, take out four ??screws from the back and re-install the F series cluster on the back of your bezel....simple...(for some room to work I left the bezel off till I had everything functioning properly)
the wiring ( moving wires around in your pin connectors ) cross referencing colors and funtions...took alittle time...no Buds that day...notepad..
what be that e-mail address should I be able to scan these pages???..(worst case my grandkids will be around this weekend..someone has to know how to send them to you)
Happy hunting...Al
btw, have many of you van owners fixed the oil pressure gauge really just being a low pressure switch?? that is to say that your gauge is not showing real oil pressure - the engine only has a low pressure switch normally used for a warning lite. ford kept the gauge and added a resistor so the gauge needle moves to the middle position (roughly) when the engine is running...
neil
neil
Good info on the cluster swap. Hopefully a 95 E350 is like yours. I put my vacuum gage in where your tach is installed, Neil. I found the vacuum gage at Harbor Freight on sale and it fits just a tad over the depression(2.25" dia I think)
I still can't post pictures here or not doing it right any help on that so I show what I have. I am going to make another gallery once I get the camera working again.
The oil pressure is a simple fix, I got the info from another web site:
"First, they changed the oil pressure sender (used with a real gauge) out for an oil pressure switch (used with an idiot light). Second, they added a fixed resistance into the sender circuit (a simple 20 ohm resistor seems to be what they used in all
of the cases I could find) so that the gauge would read at about half-scale any
time the oil pressure switch was active. The way to undo their "fix" is simply to reverse it - swap out the sender for a real oil pressure gauge sender, and bypass the fixed resistance so that the gauge reads normally. The interesting thing about these instrument clusters is that the gauge is still a real gauge, which is what enables you to make it work correctly. Other folks have writen pages on how to solve this problem in the Thunderbirds, and some have indicated you can
solve it on the Mustangs as well, so I'm inclined to believe it will work on any vehicle where
you can find and bypass the fixed resistor (20 ohm) in the circuit."
I haven't done that to my van and pickup yet, at least the van sending unit is right behind the doghouse on the 460 engine! my F250 is reading low allready as I have the true sending unit installed allready, just have to jump out that resistor.
I still can't post pictures here or not doing it right any help on that so I show what I have. I am going to make another gallery once I get the camera working again.
The oil pressure is a simple fix, I got the info from another web site:
"First, they changed the oil pressure sender (used with a real gauge) out for an oil pressure switch (used with an idiot light). Second, they added a fixed resistance into the sender circuit (a simple 20 ohm resistor seems to be what they used in all
of the cases I could find) so that the gauge would read at about half-scale any
time the oil pressure switch was active. The way to undo their "fix" is simply to reverse it - swap out the sender for a real oil pressure gauge sender, and bypass the fixed resistance so that the gauge reads normally. The interesting thing about these instrument clusters is that the gauge is still a real gauge, which is what enables you to make it work correctly. Other folks have writen pages on how to solve this problem in the Thunderbirds, and some have indicated you can
solve it on the Mustangs as well, so I'm inclined to believe it will work on any vehicle where
you can find and bypass the fixed resistor (20 ohm) in the circuit."
I haven't done that to my van and pickup yet, at least the van sending unit is right behind the doghouse on the 460 engine! my F250 is reading low allready as I have the true sending unit installed allready, just have to jump out that resistor.
yeah eddie, i have already done mine when i pulled the cluster apart to add indicator led's for all the extra functions going on in my van. just wondering about other folks. i've been turning wrenches for 35+ years and owned this van since '96 and it took me until last year to realize out what ford had done - never thought about it until i really looked at it on purpose...
neil
neil
Ok, I got my cluster installed and fully working. I did have to change about 8 wires around for the cluster to work properly,
at least the wire color codes were the same from the years of 94 F150 to the 95 E350. Just matched up the
connectors(I did grab the F150 connectors, BIG help there) wires and added the tach feed to it.
Before photo
\
After

I did reinstall my POSM so I have the original milage and ratios. Also the anti slosh modual is a plug and play after you cut a trace(shorting bar)
Got rid of that tach mounted on the dash, found out it was reading about 200 to 500 RPMs LESS than factory tach!!
Also found out my RABS is malfunctioning as the orginal dash RABS lamp was burnt out......
at least the wire color codes were the same from the years of 94 F150 to the 95 E350. Just matched up the
connectors(I did grab the F150 connectors, BIG help there) wires and added the tach feed to it.
Before photo
\After

I did reinstall my POSM so I have the original milage and ratios. Also the anti slosh modual is a plug and play after you cut a trace(shorting bar)
Got rid of that tach mounted on the dash, found out it was reading about 200 to 500 RPMs LESS than factory tach!!
Also found out my RABS is malfunctioning as the orginal dash RABS lamp was burnt out......
Going to make that 10' top clearance and put more in line of sight. Hated the location and with new guage it would cover up the temp and fuel guages.
Prevous owners in the past did hit things as the whole top front shows alot of fiberglassing repair work on the inside!
Prevous owners in the past did hit things as the whole top front shows alot of fiberglassing repair work on the inside!

Helm has printed all of Ford's literature since the 1940's.




