Mine doesn't shift till about 4400 or so, daily I think would be a good guess with my 30 yr old chunk of iron..

 

I think somone was going for that jetfighter cockpit look.

 

The Inline Six Gas Engine, 240 and 300, has a low end, simular to a diesel. They don't like going past 3500RPM.

 

That would be me. I hardly ever go over 3K.

There's a few dashes I really liked. Do you know whos specifically those are?

 

That's it!!!!! At first I was thinking it was a 240 CID 6 banger. Awesome truck there.


I'm sure someone wouldn't have trouble selling some of those setups if they reproduced them.

 

Exactly what i was looking for. is there any way that you can shoot us a couple pics of your gaue panel and glove box area???? What are those 4 toggle switches for??? And those 2 on the right? Ignition?? Kits or no???

Nice rig though man.......

 

Thanks for this bit of Ford **** , it is added to my collection..Rick

 

I THINK this is the other side of the dash is covered with just a flat aluminum plate (can't remember).

Switches include fuel pump and I think rear mount radiator and fan. I forget what the others are.

Here's a couple more pics for the overall thread as well.

 

Not custom,but this is what I did:

 

Thanks for the kind words.
I used this piece of aluminum that was donated from another project. It has found its way into several trucks, and is currently in the pumpkin until I have the time to make something real nice.
I plan on still doing something retro, and using current AutoMeter Ultra Lite gauges. WOuld like to go liquid filled, and have not decided yet.
The pass side uses another piece of aluminum, and houses the MSD 6AL box.
It has easy access to change rev limiter pills.
Driver side includes the essentials only. Tach, water temp, oil press, chargubg system, fuel press.
Shift light is placed right above the column, and has been seperated from the tach. Tach is still responsible for adjustment of the light.
Switches are for exterior lights, interior lights, wipers, electric fans. One fan for the rear radiator (no fan for front radiator) and one fan for power steering pump cooler, fuel pump and ignition. Push button starter is located where the cigar lighter used to be, and thats all she has. Simple and capable of being washed down with a hose.
Engine air filter is in the cab behind the electrical MSD box under the dash.
Simple and effective.I do plan on cleaning all of that junk up, and probably using some 316 stainless steel so I can keep it from becoming stained after the mud runs.
Mud tends to be kind of corrosive, so the SS should keep a nice appearance.

 

i would rep you on that, but it said that i couldn't!!???? Anyway, wow thank you sooo much for being so detailed....the switch on the far right, on the video, killed the motor. what is that switch for?

 

Thats my ignition. It powers the MSD and send power so the dizzy can spark. Thats is it. Fuel pump and everything else is on its own circuit. This makes it easy to determine if something has failed because usully only one item can fail.
If I lose any one curcuit, all other isolated curcuits will keep working, in theory. This increases reliability.
Heak, I use a generic fuse box, and only have a few fuses iinstalled. No need for super detailed and complicated electrical.
Simple is what keeps it reliable. Not too many things that can go wrong.

 

Thank you!!! Very helpfull

 

Very true. im pretty new to wiring anyway. simple is better!! And thanks for all your help!

 

not to be off topic, but i've run briggs raptor motors to 8500 without breakage except after alot of time and i knew a guy that used to spin 9500+ but he was rebuilding every couple months.