Well i got to tell yaa, i never messed with a tranny and checking out some of those pics with the springs and such, had me squirreling back in my hole. I'll give anything a shot but i don't think me or my neighbors could stand another maniac freaking out over a previous mod(gauges), rant over, whew. Breath Mike, breath.

 

With either kit, there be extra parts left, if you are not pulling the trans. There are some mods that can be done in the pump that require its removal. I did all the mods when I rebuilt my trans last September. I used the $65 reprogramming kit (recommended at the time by the parts supplier) and added the TC lock up kit to the pump.

 

I`ve read this post twice, and still lost, every(ford) trans. I have ever owened felt like I was stepping on a wet grape(SQUISSHY) when I hit the go peddel, I would like firmer shifts but do i need the TC lockup? I don`t pull any thing heavier than a polorias Ranger. (1500lbs) On these E. Tn hills.
I always check with you guys first before I take it to a mech.

 

The TC lock up kit converts the TC engagement from a pulse width modulated operation to an off-on positive type engagement of the TC clutch. Read " less slippage". The advanatage to this is longer TC clutch life and less heat build up due to slippage. Light loads would not be affected near as much without this kit, but I recommend it if the trans is out.

 

I thought the difference in the two kits was that the Tugger has the stuff for pump mods, which requires pulling the trans to do... correct?

 

Joe, I believe that it was Monsterbaby, when he went off on his rant about how BTS is NOT as good as everyone thinks they are.

 

My "less expensive kit", E4OD-HD2-D, contained the parts to mod the the line pressure and TC press regulators. Both, which require the removal of the pump. There is an upgraded piston seal for the direct drum that is also included. I believe the Tugger kit has an upgraded spiral snap ring for the OD apply piston return spring.

 

I am thinking of doing adding a Transgo kit to my trany also. I just bought this truck. I called Brian at BTS and talked to him. He recommended the Transgo $65.00 HD2 kit. My trany has 151,000 miles on it and hasn't been rebuilt. I want it to last as long as possible. I hope adding this kit doesn't cause me any problems because the trany works now but I want firmer shifts, which I would think would help prolong the life of the trany. Brian also told me to make sure I use Dexron III/Mercon transmission fluid only. He said do not put synthetic in my old trany or I will have problems. I am still a little confused on what the tugger kit includeds or does to the trany that the HD2 doesn't. Can anyone clear this up by compairing the two kits?

 

This is the first I am really reading and learning about a Trans mod, sorry if this is a dumb question. Are these mods going to make the truck shift harder into each gear? I know that drilling holes in the VB will do that, but I thought most everyone wanted to make there truck shift smoother? Will the hard shifting make it faster or better?

Keven, huntke, what is it exactly that you are looking to get out of your truck from this mod?

 

That's correct Roland, and it also included mods to the Main VB, which I don't thing the $65 kit included. EXACTLY what that mod was for, I don't think I ever knew. I wish Mark would spill the beans some more on that stuff.

 

"Smoother" means longer, slower clutch engagement/disengagement. That makes more wear on the clutches and more heat. All that is bad. You want short, firm shifts, but not "Bangs". I wish there was a way to make you feel them over the net, but the only way is to ride in a truck that has the mods. It's HUGE improvement.

 

The main VB mods included in the Tugger kit: "Doubles the holding power of L/R clutches in manual low. Prevents downhill clutch burnup. A must when using exhaust brake or loaded downgrade use, Reduces 2nd Clutch burnup." This was taken from the Tugger instruction sheet. These mods are dependent upon whether you have a 1st or 2nd design VB. The $65 kit doesn't have this mod, but I have been thinking of adding it at my next fluid change. You can buy this L/R Modulator Boost kit separately. It is available from TransGo and Sonnax.

 

Humm, wont the drillin holes in the VB give bangs though? I would like short firm shifts, but I really want smooth shifting over the need for speed.

 

Kinda long but here goes:

I probably should have re phrased my previous post. I do know what was/is in the tugger kit. When I rebuilt mine I installed all the parts of this kit. And I must say that I am very happy with the results. The main one that I feel should be done to really help things out is the booster valve that goes in the pump. This one will up the pressure on all clutch packs. Not just forward gears in Drive. Down side is you have to remove the tranny to do it. You can change the modulator valve in the accumulator body, but you still are only addressing forward gears when in Drive. I just got off the phone with transgo, the shift kit, SK E4OD, doesn't have the calibration plate, or the extra parts for the main valve body. The Tugger Kit does have a calibration plate. The tech support guy said he wouldn't recommend the shift kit, at the time it came out it was good for the E4OD, but now that the Tugger is available, that is what he recommends. Calibration plate aside, as posted earlier, it increases pressure when using manual 1 and 2 and reverse clutch.

As far as shifts go. I personally like mine smooth. With the lower stall TC I didn't drill any of the holes out for firmer shifts in the plate. I like the way it shifts now. You can still feel each shift, but there isn't any jerking. I disagree that transmissions are burning up during shifts, while it does cause some increased slippage, I feel the lack of increased holding power and slipping under load is what causes most to fail.

I bought the lockup valve for the TC as well, however, haven't installed it and probably wont. With the first burn of the DP chip the PWM for lockup happend pretty quick. When the TC, aftermartket BD, would lock it was locked. I was worried that when towing the trailer and it locked that hard I was going to break things. It was just like popping the clutch. I had it reburned to trim down the PWM some so it would lock up slower. With fords stock TC, probably works wonders.

 

I guess then go with smaller holes in the plate. I drilled the plate on the large side for much shorter, firmer shifts. If you go with larger holes it won't be as firm, but still way better than stock.