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This is my first winter with my PSD. Now that the temp is getting colder it has a rough start after sitting for a while (8 hours or so). I noticed the problem when the temp started to dip below the 30s. The colder it gets, the worse the problem is.
I cycle the glow plugs until the dash light goes off. Then I turn the key back and cycle them once more. It cranks for a second or two and then fires right up. However, it runs VERY rough and the truck bucks for about 10 seconds or so. Then it settles down and idles normally. Is this normal for cold starts in these trucks, or is there something I should investigate before it gets even colder?
On a side note, I had the pleasure of replacing the starter this morning. I was shocked at how simple it was! I was expecting to miss an entire day of work while tackling the project. Instead, I managed to miss only a few hours!
There are a couple of things you might look at to make winter starting easier. First, the "Wait to Start" light on the dash is an idiot light and is NOT connected to the glowplug/GPR system. The best way to know if the glow plugs are energized is to get a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack and ground one of the wires and connect the other to the glowplug side of the glow plug relay. The LED will then stay on as long as the glow plugs are being fed power and that should help you to know when the optimum time is for starting it (just wait till the light goes out and then crank her over). Another way to know is to turn on your interior lights and watch them...when the glow plug relay turns off, the lights will brighten considerably.
The other thing you might consider is changing your oil to 5-40 weight oil. I can easily start my truck in sub-zero weather without plugging the heater in after waiting for the glow plugs to turn off. It will idle much smoother when it is cold with this oil in it. I run 5-40 Rotella T synthetic in the winter...there are others though that are comparable.
You might also try plugging your truck in for a few hours (2-3 hours) before you try to start it. There is a plug at the bottom of the grille area...you can trace it from the area of the oil filter, if I remember correctly. These trucks will start without supplemental heating to below zero.
That rough running is known as romping, and its common in cold weather. Do as Neal suggested and wait longer before you try to start it in the morning for the glow plugs to heat things up. I got some romps while we were gone for Turkey day, so the next day I waited a good minute, maybe longer and the romps went away. Also, it would be a good idea to get a multimeter and test your glow plugs and glow plug relay to make sure everything is up to snuff.
That rough running is known as romping, and its common in cold weather. Do as Neal suggested and wait longer before you try to start it in the morning for the glow plugs to heat things up. I got some romps while we were gone for Turkey day, so the next day I waited a good minute, maybe longer and the romps went away. Also, it would be a good idea to get a multimeter and test your glow plugs and glow plug relay to make sure everything is up to snuff.
Good to hear it is normal! I just bought a heavy duty timer so I'll be plugging it in when I'm parked at home.
How do I test the glow plugs and relay? I happen to have a multimeter sitting next to me.
I scanned over some more info on this site and headed to the garage with a multimeter.
I have 11 volts at each battery.
11 volts at the GPR terminal connecting to the battery.
Key turned to WTS shows 11 volts at the opposite terminal.
Truck running shows 12 volts to the battery side terminal & the two small terminals.
Next up, checking the glow plugs... How the @#$% do you get the plugs with the nine-wires going into the valve covers loose?! I gave up out of fear of breaking something.
Pry up gently on the plastic tab and the 9 pin connector on the valve cover should come loose.
Double check your batteries. You should be reading 12 volts with the key off and 14+ volts with the engine running. Lower than 14 volts at the batteries with the engine running means your alternator is not charging properly, but that usually will set the battery/charging light on the dash.
Double check your batteries. You should be reading 12 volts with the key off and 14+ volts with the engine running. Lower than 14 volts at the batteries with the engine running means your alternator is not charging properly, but that usually will set the battery/charging light on the dash.
What Chris said (I tried to rep you Robin...no can do, but GREAT pictures)...That is what I would fix first...lord knows we have seen lots of different symptoms over the years caused by low voltage batteries and defective charging systems.
While I was at my local parts store picking up a few things to install a GPR LED in the truck, I had them test the batteries. They said they were both holding a charge, but there was at most 20% life left. I decided to go ahead and replace them since I have no idea how old they are. Tomorrow morning I'll find out if it helped with my problems.
I also grabbed a GPR-109 relay. I'll put that in as a last resort if the batteries didn't fix it.
Also, I finally managed to get the 9-pin connectors loose. All 8 glow plugs meter between .8 and 1.0 ohms, so they should be fine.
The combination of the new batteries and a new relay seem to have done the trick. It cranks much quicker and fires up easier. It only romped once this morning before mellowing out. I also threw in an LED off the GPR since I had the parts laying around. It's very helpful to know when the GPs are actually heating!
Thank you to all of the people of FTE! I've learned a lot about my truck over the last week!
Since the problem seems to be corrected I made an appointment to have a Viper 5701 Remote Start / Alarm / Keyless entry system installed on Thursday. The shop is also putting it in with a controllable relay that can be adjusted to vary the WTS time (not tapping into the WTS idiot light). I can't wait.
Here's is something to think about. If you have the key on for longer than about twenty seconds while the GPs are heating up the fuel pump has shut off and the fuel pressure has dropped to zero. So if you wait more than 20 seconds turn the key off and then back on so the fuel pump will kick in and build some fuel pressure, it only takes about 3 or 4 seconds, then start. I bet you will get quicker starts. Try it.
Here's is something to think about. If you have the key on for longer than about twenty seconds while the GPs are heating up the fuel pump has shut off and the fuel pressure has dropped to zero. So if you wait more than 20 seconds turn the key off and then back on so the fuel pump will kick in and build some fuel pressure, it only takes about 3 or 4 seconds, then start. I bet you will get quicker starts. Try it. </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
I hope that I have found what has been bothering me. I did not know that the fuel pump shut down, while I counted to 30 after the 'wait to start' light went off. I have new Batts and new fuel filter, checked the glow plug relay and all seems to coming on fine. When I would go to start my truck, it would crank 5 or 6 seconds before it would start and I never had a delay like that in the summer. After running the truck for a few minutes I can... shut it off and after one or two cranks of the engine it would fire right back up with no delay. I was so worried that something major is wrong. I was having low batt. issuse(bought new ones) and dirty fuel filter and I changed out the oil and filter. I thought that I may be having some type of low oil pressure that was not letting fuel get to the injectors. I will try this out when I get home and I hope sleep a lot easier tonight.
I want thank everyone here who takes the time to post. (I am running my printer like crazy with all the great info.) the support you gals and guys give is priceless.
Preventative maintenance is always so much easier, less expensive and less time consuming then corrective maintenance. Remember, if you don't have time to do it right the first time do you have time to do it again.