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IPR malfunction and replacement

 
  #1  
Old 11-30-2008, 05:59 PM
aocabrown
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IPR malfunction and replacement

Can someone describe the symptoms of a bad IPR?

Also, I have checked this website for remove/replace instructions. My Haynes manual says to remove fuel filter canister. These instructions don't mention that. IPR Replacement Instructions For anyone who has done it....can I really get to this thing with the fabricated tool or would it me easier to remove the fuel filter canister? It looks awfully tight back in there, I'm not even sure I will be able to turn the fabricated tool after I do get it back in there.

Oh....and does anyone have one of these tools they want to loan out? Seems a waste to have a bunch of people with welded 29 mm sockets. If not, I'll make one and offer it to the next guy in line.
 
  #2  
Old 11-30-2008, 06:04 PM
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Symptoms are stored codes & CEL, and crappy idle/rough running under throttle.
 
  #3  
Old 11-30-2008, 07:20 PM
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un plug the harnes..take off the tin nut..slide the plug off of the the IPR..use a very deep 1/2 inch drive 1 1/6 socket with a hole all the way though the socket to take the IPR out...slide the socket on first..then the ratchet..the ratchet will not go all the way on the socket cause the IPR is almost to long..you may want to suck out the oil in the HPOP...if not oil will come out the IPR hole when you pull it...
http://www.dfuser.com/Install%20Guid...0Regulator.pdf
 
  #4  
Old 11-30-2008, 09:17 PM
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Ron is absolutely correct, the ratchet will not go all the way in but it will get it off. I have the socket and a spare IPR. I can send them both to you as a loaner if you would like to eliminate that problem. Let me know.

As for the items, I have no problem lending them, but would like them back when you are done. Snap On replacements aren't cheap and I keep a spare IPR. At least if you try a cleaning of yours you'll have a known good one to compare to. I happen to know both I have are working properly. Cleaning my original one changed nothing on the idle as did the replacement. At least I knew it was not the IPR. Let me know.
 
  #5  
Old 12-01-2008, 07:48 PM
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Thanks for the offer Mike. I don't want to take your spare. I'll just buy one and if it makes no change...I'll have a spare too. I was more interested in the fabticated tool with the metal welded to the socket. If a plain deep well will work, I have that and will give it a try. Quick question...what should I expect after taking that first 3/4 tin nut off...are there multiple pieces in there I need to catch...and if so, how hard will it be to put the new tin nut on (since you can barely see anything back in there). I read somewhere that you should take the fuel filter canister out but I assume it can be done without doing that...just not sure how 'easy' it can be done.

Thanks for any last secrets. I should have my IPR tomorrow and hopefully on tomorrow night.
 
  #6  
Old 12-02-2008, 03:39 AM
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once you take the tin nut off..there is a spacer that will slide off..then the electrical solenoid will slide right off..then use the 1 1/16 socket to take the IPR out..
 
  #7  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:37 AM
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heya peeps

because this is an older thread (i'm hoping for similar advice):

on this note, i think my IPR is going. i am wondering if it's actually the selonoid for me. I'm getting the cleaning instructions from SuperDoodie, and will try this. however if it is electrical, my local international shop told me $270. is this reasonable? Also, what is the "edge"? They say there are two kinds of IPR, one edge, one no-edge. Thanks!
 
  #8  
Old 04-15-2009, 11:54 AM
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Pre 1995 1/2 uses an IPR with an "EDGE FILTER" (screen), 95.5-2003 is without.
 
  #9  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:03 PM
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oh geez!!! mine has a screen on it! i wonder if i have the wrong one in there. i had my problems before the filter change, but i wondered why it was different. figured "THEY" put the wrong one in. it's like a very thin tissue piece that is offset from the main paper filter by about 1/8", right? hrm....
 
  #10  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by surveyguy View Post
oh geez!!! mine has a screen on it! i wonder if i have the wrong one in there. i had my problems before the filter change, but i wondered why it was different. figured "THEY" put the wrong one in. it's like a very thin tissue piece that is offset from the main paper filter by about 1/8", right? hrm....
guzzle is talking about the IPR, not the fuel filter. Your fuel filter should have a "screen" around the main body of the filter.
 
  #11  
Old 04-15-2009, 02:18 PM
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$270 is a bit steep. $180 from Joey at Terminator, or contact FTE parts/guy.
 
  #12  
Old 04-15-2009, 03:00 PM
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$169 and 3 days wait right here..Guzzle is very good at getting parts out the door ASAP..
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Old 04-15-2009, 03:31 PM
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I bought mine off Ebay for $90 brand new still in the Motorcraft box.
 
  #14  
Old 04-15-2009, 04:40 PM
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thanks guy's. Ford wants $311, so international was better at $270. if cleaning and new orings don't help me, i'll get in touch with guzzle for $169. WOW, $90!

with the EDGE filter, that's awful interesting. i wonder if they worked better at keeping the IPR from failing.

I have a 1 1/8" 12pt 1/2" drive deep socket, will it be too loose? should i go to Sears and buy a 6pt for $12? they don't sll 29mm sockets.
 
  #15  
Old 04-15-2009, 05:16 PM
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I use a 12pt Husky that I picked up at Lowes some time ago and it works fine.

The Edge filter is more than just a filter ... don't ask me what, but they won't work properly in the 95.5 and up.
 

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