Cold start problems
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Cold start problems
I posted this earlier in the super duty section, but was advised I may getbetter advice here.
I have a 1999 7.3 that doesn't like to start in the cold. I've replaced the GP's and relay, to no success. My Chilton says the PCM gets an input from the oil temp sensor...I was thinking of replacing that next. I don't remember his name but one member here suggested possible battery problems, which might also explain my door lock problems as well.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for all the help.
I have a 1999 7.3 that doesn't like to start in the cold. I've replaced the GP's and relay, to no success. My Chilton says the PCM gets an input from the oil temp sensor...I was thinking of replacing that next. I don't remember his name but one member here suggested possible battery problems, which might also explain my door lock problems as well.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for all the help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Welcome to FTE.
I'd start by getting a multi-meter and checking for voltage coming out of the relay (2nd big post) immediately after the key is turned on. See how long you're getting power through the relay. As for the EOT (engine oil temp) sensor, yes that is one of the factors the PCM uses to determine how long the glow plugs stay on. If you want to find out if that's the problem, simply unplug the sensor. The PCM will assume a cold engine and energize the glow plugs for max on time (about 2 min).
Can you give a better description of not wanting to start? How long does it take? Any smoke coming out the tail pipe while cranking? Any smoke, how much, and what color after the truck finally starts?
Batteries are important. Without enough voltage while cranking, the IDM won't fire the injectors. Most auto parts stores will load test your batteries for free.
As for your door locks, it's probably the actuators going bad. You can either spend a bunch of money and replace the actuators, or head to the kitchen and grab a little piece of tin foil, and fix the ones in your truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3737718
I'd start by getting a multi-meter and checking for voltage coming out of the relay (2nd big post) immediately after the key is turned on. See how long you're getting power through the relay. As for the EOT (engine oil temp) sensor, yes that is one of the factors the PCM uses to determine how long the glow plugs stay on. If you want to find out if that's the problem, simply unplug the sensor. The PCM will assume a cold engine and energize the glow plugs for max on time (about 2 min).
Can you give a better description of not wanting to start? How long does it take? Any smoke coming out the tail pipe while cranking? Any smoke, how much, and what color after the truck finally starts?
Batteries are important. Without enough voltage while cranking, the IDM won't fire the injectors. Most auto parts stores will load test your batteries for free.
As for your door locks, it's probably the actuators going bad. You can either spend a bunch of money and replace the actuators, or head to the kitchen and grab a little piece of tin foil, and fix the ones in your truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...ml#post3737718
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
[quote=F350-6;6818871]
As for your door locks, it's probably the actuators going bad. You can either spend a bunch of money and replace the actuators, or head to the kitchen and grab a little piece of tin foil, and fix the ones in your truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...718[/quote]
If he has bad batteries it will affect the door locks,I went through that with mine when I had a bad alternator
I would fix the other stuff first
As for your door locks, it's probably the actuators going bad. You can either spend a bunch of money and replace the actuators, or head to the kitchen and grab a little piece of tin foil, and fix the ones in your truck. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...718[/quote]
If he has bad batteries it will affect the door locks,I went through that with mine when I had a bad alternator
I would fix the other stuff first
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I just read that a past thread about the door locks. I gotta try that.
Here's what is going on. When cold, after the "wait to start" light goes out, the engine turns but won't start. If it does catch, I blow white smoke for a few seconds. In the past, after about 5 or 6 tries, the battery would become to weak. So I'd either jump it or charge the battery. Never thought about un plugging the oil temp sensor...good idea. It's also been awhile since I've heard the engine idle up in the cold, and the Chilton says that sensoe has something to do with it. I bought the truck in 2002 while stationed in Fairbanks Alaska. It's obviously not as cold here in Georgia, but it should still idle up when cold...wouldn't you think?
Here's what is going on. When cold, after the "wait to start" light goes out, the engine turns but won't start. If it does catch, I blow white smoke for a few seconds. In the past, after about 5 or 6 tries, the battery would become to weak. So I'd either jump it or charge the battery. Never thought about un plugging the oil temp sensor...good idea. It's also been awhile since I've heard the engine idle up in the cold, and the Chilton says that sensoe has something to do with it. I bought the truck in 2002 while stationed in Fairbanks Alaska. It's obviously not as cold here in Georgia, but it should still idle up when cold...wouldn't you think?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Yes it should still high idle. There are a few sensors in the loop that affect that. I'd check the relay with the meter first. As you will see, the duration the glow plugs stay on is longer than the dash light. If the relay is working properly, you might try leaving the key in the on position for 20 or 30 seconds before you try to start it.
If there's no power coming out of the relay, you'll need to test the smaller posts and see if the PCM is providing the ground signal which makes the relay kick on.
If there's no power coming out of the relay, you'll need to test the smaller posts and see if the PCM is providing the ground signal which makes the relay kick on.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
I checked alt and it was only charging 12.1 so short trips were wearing batteries down and door locks would only work after I drove it about 25 miles
since the new alternator no more door lock problems
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I think I had multiple problems:
Checked out put terminal on both new and old relay...
old had no output, new had 11v for about 20 seconds. Both had .6v from the pcm. So the only thing left is the batteries or the oil temp sensor. I'm gonna charge the oldest battery tonight (had one changed out 2 yrs ago), and try it in the morning. If it still won't start, I'll pull the connector of the oil temp sensor. Does that sound like pretty good judgement?
You guys are awesome!
Checked out put terminal on both new and old relay...
old had no output, new had 11v for about 20 seconds. Both had .6v from the pcm. So the only thing left is the batteries or the oil temp sensor. I'm gonna charge the oldest battery tonight (had one changed out 2 yrs ago), and try it in the morning. If it still won't start, I'll pull the connector of the oil temp sensor. Does that sound like pretty good judgement?
You guys are awesome!
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
Go take a screwdriver and short the 2 big posts on the glow plug relay together. Hold it there for about 45 seconds, then get in and try to start the truck (you can ignore the wait to start light at this point)
The screwdriver will complete the circuit and light the glow plugs while you hold it on there, and by cranking right away, it will minimize the draw on the battery.
I think charging the batteries sounds like a good idea.
The screwdriver will complete the circuit and light the glow plugs while you hold it on there, and by cranking right away, it will minimize the draw on the battery.
I think charging the batteries sounds like a good idea.
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I have to wait till morning, I ran the truck today and it's still warm. Once I get it started and running, it'll start during the day. It's only in the morning after sitting all night that I have the problem...which could also indicate a battery problem.
I noticed the eagle, globe, and anchore...how long did you serve? I'm at 20.8 yrs AF.
Thanks again.
I noticed the eagle, globe, and anchore...how long did you serve? I'm at 20.8 yrs AF.
Thanks again.
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I hear ya. You were getting out as i was just getting in. Man time flys. I was in Iraq earlier this year, now I have orders to Honduras for a year. This old body can't take much more. But I still give the young troops a run for their money. Take care and I'll let ya know what happens tomorrow.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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Thanks for all the help! Reading a couple other threads, sure I have a bad battery too. I also get that clicking behind the dash when I try to start...indicating low voltage. I'll get the alt checked out too.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
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