hard cold starts and surging
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hard cold starts and surging
got an 99 7.3 starts very hard when it get's cold(below30)it will fire but not run. I can finaly get it to start after dragging the starter. After it does start the truck will surge and weeze till it warms up. I'm told glow plugs for the hard starts and wastgate for the weezing/surging. Can the wast gate be adjusted or does it have to be replaced? were can I find repair manual for backyard guy ?
Thanks
Thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,191
Likes: 4
From: Blairsville,Ga
check glow plugs and glow plug relay for cold starts
there are a few threads running on the subject
here is a manual https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...21/SXOMAIN.HTM
there are a few threads running on the subject
here is a manual https://www.motorcraftservice.com/pu...21/SXOMAIN.HTM
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 4,243
Likes: 16
From: AZ
I'd seriously consider changing oil to a 5-40W synthetic for the winter...I know Maine (climber Katahdin a few times) and it gets cold downeast. Make sure your GPR is working, your GP's are working, and your block heater is working. Mine starts easy at -10 to -15 degrees without using the block heater...but all of the above has been doen to it (synthetic 5-40 oil and the GPR & GP's are known good).
The best repair manual you can get are the people here at FTE
.
The best repair manual you can get are the people here at FTE
.
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
Likes: 50
From: Texas
Welcome to FTE backyard guy. Tell us what level of experience you have with the motor. Do you know what the GPR is? (glow plug relay) Or where it is?
Tell us about your oil (full, what kind & weight, how long since last change) and let us know what color smoke you see and how much when you're trying to start and the truck is acting up. 30's not that cold, so it's time to fix this before it gets anywhere near those temps Neal was referring to.
Tell us about your oil (full, what kind & weight, how long since last change) and let us know what color smoke you see and how much when you're trying to start and the truck is acting up. 30's not that cold, so it's time to fix this before it gets anywhere near those temps Neal was referring to.
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hard starts/surging
I'm aware of the gpr,don't know exactly were it's located. I'm told that if the wait to start light goes out after 15 sec or so relay's ok. What do you guy's think? Oil is ok change it every 3-4k (174 thou on the odi) get lots of blue smoke when it finaly fires up. Any ideas on the wastgate?
Thanks
0711
Thanks
0711
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 26,966
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From: Texas
I've read of one time where fiddling with the wastegate made the truck start better, but they were unable to reproduce the results, so I assume it was a fluke.
Blue or blue/white smoke:
Caused by insufficient fuel or oil consumption. Normal when engine is cold or idling for extended periods.
Excessive smoke could be caused by air in the fuel, contaminated fuel, loose or plugged injectors, worn or leaking injector o-rings, thermostat stuck open, oil consumption, or plugged crankcase depression regulator valve. Also PCM inputs such as MAP or ICP sensors.
As for your GPR, it's this one.
The light on the dash is a timer run by the PCM. The dash light will come on like that even if the glow plugs or relay are dead.
Blue or blue/white smoke:
Caused by insufficient fuel or oil consumption. Normal when engine is cold or idling for extended periods.
Excessive smoke could be caused by air in the fuel, contaminated fuel, loose or plugged injectors, worn or leaking injector o-rings, thermostat stuck open, oil consumption, or plugged crankcase depression regulator valve. Also PCM inputs such as MAP or ICP sensors.
As for your GPR, it's this one.
The light on the dash is a timer run by the PCM. The dash light will come on like that even if the glow plugs or relay are dead.
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Have a test light connected to the large uninsulated post on the GPR in the picture. Switch on the ignition, engine cold and see if it lights up.
From the sounds of your description of the way the engine runs when cold, I'm betting the GPR is fried.
It may click, but it won't pass current.
From the sounds of your description of the way the engine runs when cold, I'm betting the GPR is fried.
It may click, but it won't pass current.
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