Front Rotors / Pads - OEM?
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 37
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From: NoVA
Front Rotors / Pads - OEM?
Slight "pulsing" in the pedal...
1995 Crew-Cab Dually
Banks PowerPak
76,000mi.
Hauling a 45' gooseneck - 18,000lbs
May be able to turn my current stock rotors..
Any advise on pad compound?
1995 Crew-Cab Dually
Banks PowerPak
76,000mi.
Hauling a 45' gooseneck - 18,000lbs
May be able to turn my current stock rotors..
Any advise on pad compound?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Ely, NV
I hear the ceramics are good at displacing heat and are quiet. Full metallic wear the rotor too fast, semi metallic are probably stock.
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.
Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.
Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
From: NoVA
I hear the ceramics are good at displacing heat and are quiet. Full metallic wear the rotor too fast, semi metallic are probably stock.
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.
Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!
Never had much luck turning rotors more than once though, The thinner they get the faster they warp, I guess it is because of the the reduced mass.
Be sure to check your rears drums for out of round condition, it will cause a pulsing pedal also. Just apply the parking brake while going under 20 and you will feel it if they are out of round. hope this helps!
The parking brake test..Big help...thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: NoVA
You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 37
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From: NoVA
Then OEM S/D pads it is....!
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,608
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From: Belair md
they were 5 bucks more than std oem the last time i got them but its been quite a while...... they used to run 55 bucks,
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Freshman User
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From: NoVA
Any venders on this forum?
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 50
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From: Ely, NV
You might want to re-think using the p-brake, if you don't use them all the time or it's been a while since you used them.....then don't do it. The cables might hangup keeping the rear brakes applied...permanently. You'll need to replace the entire rear brakes along with the cables.
I guess I should have been more specific, Hold the release lever while rolling and slowly apply the brake, If your drums are out of round you will feel a rocking motion while rolling. This should not cause your park brake to lock up. If you are replacing the brake shoes, might as well get the drums turned while they are off. Just my 2 cents.
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: NoVA
If your park brake system is in bad shape then now is the time to fix it while it is in the shop, no point in having a park brake if it does not work! after all, It is your last defense if you pop a brake line.
I guess I should have been more specific, Hold the release lever while rolling and slowly apply the brake, If your drums are out of round you will feel a rocking motion while rolling. This should not cause your park brake to lock up. If you are replacing the brake shoes, might as well get the drums turned while they are off. Just my 2 cents.
I guess I should have been more specific, Hold the release lever while rolling and slowly apply the brake, If your drums are out of round you will feel a rocking motion while rolling. This should not cause your park brake to lock up. If you are replacing the brake shoes, might as well get the drums turned while they are off. Just my 2 cents.
and are already included in my referenced.. "Full Brake Service"
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Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: NoVA
truck runs fine... fuel "puddles" in the rear manifold pockets.
Any thoughts..?
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
, but it will need new cables after that happens. I've never used them...it's dead flat around here and i don't have a stick shift...the road salt is really tough on the cables even if you do use it. I probably replace 5-10 sets of p-brake cables a year in the shop cuz they're stuck.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
It can be leaking from quite a few places but it's Probably a fuel pump. You'll need to clean up the valley really good. Start it up and see where it's coming from.