Just wanted to thank all that helped me out with my truck(92 f350 7.3 turbo diesel).I replaced all the return lines./caps/ O rings and a complete glow plug harness/fuel heater element/I also ran a seperate ground from the controller to the batt.Truck fired right up.It did not not go to high idle I am thinking its the coolant temp swith only because when the fuel heater wire burnt it ended up melting the connector on the switch.HERE IS MY QUESTION CAN I GET THE SWITCH OUT WITHOU REMOVING THE WATERNECK.I WAS THINKING ABOUT BENDING A 22 MM BOX WRENCH.Other than that the truck is running fine just does not go to high idle when cold.P.S. I put a test light on the connector there was no juice going to it with the truck just fired up(COLD).

P.S. should I keep the truck plugged in ALL THE TIME?

 

You should not need to keep it plugged in. I read somewhere the factory designed the engine to be started on it's own down to 10 degrees. Anything below that you might want to plug it in.

My cold start switch is bad also, but it seems to do fine without it. I hold the accelerator down a little bit to start it, and keep it revved a little bit for a few seconds, and it does fine, so I haven't replaced mine yet.

 

have you check to see if any wiring is chafed or cut?

 

If the cold start switch is out, you will want to plug it in for a bit (hour?) before starting the truck if it is below 40 degrees.

My cold start switch was unplugged and let me tell you the truck SMOKED like MF until it warmed up. Plugging it in dramatically helped this. Fixing the cold start circuit solved it.

Not sure about bending the wrench as I have not changed the switch, simply plugged mine in.

 

Franklin...... if the engine temp switch which feeds the Fast idle and timing advance 12V is not working you get no raised fast idle speed (when you press the fuel pedal ..key on) or timing advance.....

 

I think you can get by the thermostat housing just fine with a socket and universal.

The alternator would have to come off though.

When the key is on, one terminal of the switch should have power.
When the engine is below 112 degrees, both terminals should have power.

When you were working on the fuel heater any chance you just pulled the connector off the switch?
Very easy to do when you change #1 glow plug also.


Question for someone with an E4OD.
That connector with the blue stripe on it, is that for the TPS for the tranny?
I know that is the connector someone was asking about a while back, I never realized I had a picture of it till now.

 

No I think its the switch, as soon as I started the truck I put a test light on the connector that goes to the fast idle solenoid and no juice.When the fuel heater wire went the terminal that goes to the temp switch was melted so im figuring it fried it some how.Are there two different part numbers I remember reading somewhere that one has the bullet connector and the other spade.

Part number for spade?

How much?

Thanks Again?

 

Actually it has two spade terminals.
One power in, one power out.

Before you spend dollars, I would make sure you have power to the temp switch.
The fuel heater may have cooked the power in wire, they are all in the same harness.

 

Dave,

The TPS for the E4OD looks like this:
UNPLUGGED:




On my truck the plug you are asking about is plugged into a part that has the following International number: 1811164C2

A few pics of it:




My understanding is that it is a relay that turns on the Water in Fuel light while starting.

Hope that helps.

 

I know. What I was saying is I seem to get by alright without it. So in other words, it's way way down on the priority list of things to fix. I believe the cheapest I could find the switch was around $50.00.

What I did to figure my problem out was unplug the connector on the switch, and make a little jumper to jump the terminals in the connector. When I did this and then start it, it will fast idle and sound a little different. When I pull the jumper out, the idle drops. So that is how I know everything is working except the switch itself.

 

Axe handle, that makes perfect sense as to what that connector is for.

 

It did cook the wire! I replaced the whole harness.The connector was melted,thats why im figuring its the coolant temp switch.

 

Ahh OK, I missed the replace the whole harness part.

I have looked for that switch online at places like NAPA Online, Advance and Autozone for other people before and never found it.

I think you will have to go to International or Ford to find one.