i put the AE on the 02 today, and came up with a lot of DTC's
i have read the book that came with AE 4 times so far, and still can not figure out how to use it as anything other than a code reader.
anyway, here are the DTC's i got today.:
P0123: throttle pedal position sensor switch A circuit high input
P1670: electronic feedback signal not detected.
P0381: glow plug /heater.
P0478 exhaust pressure control valve high.
then i also got these
B2658
B1318
B1342
B1352
U1027


now i think the glow plug code was because i cold fired the truck up without letting the glow plugs cycle because it is 85º outside.
what are the rest of these codes??
is the fuel pedal one a bad pedal, or something else? because every now and then when i try to pull out into traffic the truck will fall flat and just idle, then when i let off the pedal and ease into the pedal it will go.

 

Clear them all, drive for a bit and check again... Most are just ghost codes that come up from time to time.

 

these are the codes that come up every time. it takes about 2-3 days for them to appear.

i know something is wrong with the truck, because no matter how i drive it, the best i can get is 13-14 mpg.

 

DTC P0123 indicates AP sensor circuit high input.
Possible causes are:
damaged accelerator pedal assembly
AP sensor may not be seated properly (tightened down)
damaged AP sensor
short to power in harness
damaged PCM
DTC P0381 is set when the PCM detects a malfunction in the glow plug indicator lamp circuit.
Possible causes:
Open/grounded circuit
Open WAIT TO START light
Open fuse (F-Series — Fuse 19, Econoline — Fuse 2)
DTC P0478 indicates an excessive back pressure condition existed during normal driving.
Possible causes:
stuck EBP butterfly valve
restricted exhaust
plugged EBP sensor line
misadjusted EPR linkage
F-Series wastegate turbo may be overboosting
DTC P1668 and P1670 indicates that a communication error has occurred between the PCM and the IDM.
Possible causes:
Open fuse
IDM relay
Open or shorted IDM enable circuit
Open/short in EF circuit
Open/short in FDCS circuit
IDM powering circuits
PCM
Check for other codes

The rest are not on my list ..

 

There's no truck info in your sig Tom. What rear end do you have? Lift? Oversize tires? Chip / Tuner? Any other mods? What mpg's did you used to get? How long has this been going on? Did you notice any increase with the switch to summer blend (if they've done that yet)? What type of driving nets you the 13-15? City, highway, bat out of he**, grandpa style? How high does your RPM's get between shifts?

I agree with Joe. I'd ignore those codes. The P codes are the ones to pay attention to, but if you really had a P1670 issue, you'd be asking us about a lot more than mileage, but based on the codes you do have, you might try this Welcome to guzzle's Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Cleaning Maintenance Web Page

Some have had luck with that, others not. Also check your 6) IC plenum boots to make sure they are tight, and check your up pipes for any signs of a leak.

 

as i guess you can tell, i realy don't know very much about these engines.

my diesel knowledge is reserved for the IDI's and older large truck diesels.

 

You will not get a code from a cold start like that.

What mods do you have?

 

02 7.3
mods are 4 inch exhaust and a 6637 air filter.
dp tuner.
4.10 gears. stock tires, no lift.
mileage has always been 13-14 mixed use since i got the truck.
best ever was 15 with cruise set at 65 on the highway, and in town driving is 10-11 mpg.
tuner on or off makes no difference, and fuel makes no difference.
and even that is wrong, cause the speedo reads higher than i am going. according to the GPS i am doing 58 when the speedo reads 65.

 

So how are you calculating your mpg's? Using the incorrect odometer or using GPS data for mileage?

 

the speedo. that is why i said even the numbers i am quoting are wrong.
and i get those numbers be addition, not by the overhead trip meter.

 

Hey Tom. You can use the AE to reset your speedometer. I never did it with mine but I know some have done this. I hope you have gauges. Do you have the OA so the map sensor don't see you over boost?

Do you have a F-350 and maybe a dually to have 4:10 gears? I get around 13-14 combined in my truck.

 

there are a lot of things you are supposed to be able to do with the AE, but with useless instructions that are shipped with it, it is a useless tool.
i am not very happy with it, and consider it a waste of $350.
i tried to get better instructions on how to use it, but never got any answers from emails to them


the truck i am having problems with is an 02 F250 4x4 diesel with auto trans.

 

Here is a few things you can do with the AE. I don't know if you seen these or not. LINK

 

AE has a learning curve, depending on your experience with past scanners.

You've got the code part down. Next step is on-board diagnostics and live data.

When you are in AE and connected to the truck, you can run several on-board diagnostic tests. Some are with the engine off, and some are with the engine running. Click the tab at the top that says "Test Onboard System". From there you'll see a drop-down menu giving you a choice of several tests. The ones that are commonly used are the:
- KOEO - stands for "Key On Engine Off". Run this when the engine is fully warm, but when the motor is shut off. This tests various sensors and whatnot.

- Injector Buzz Test - This test buzzes all 8 injectors at once, then buzzes each one individually in order from 1-8. Listen for a weak or a group of weak buzzes. If all 8 sound pretty much the same, and no codes were thrown in the test, you're fine.

- KOER - stands for "Key On Engine Running". This test is run when the engine is fully warm, and at idle with transmission in park (automatics) or for 6-speeds - in neutral with the ebrake engaged and air conditioning turned off. This will run several diagnostics while the engine is idling. Do not be alarmed the first time this test runs, as your engine will sound VERY weird (choppy idle, EBPV engaging, etc).

- Cylinder Contribution Test (CCT) - this test is also run with the engine idling (absolutely MUST be fully warm and up to operating temperature). This test will check the contribution of each cylinder one at a time. It takes a minute for this test to run, and it won't sound like much is happening. Just wait for it to finish as it will either say "Test Completed Successfully" if everything is fine, or it will pull up trouble codes if it finds problems.


Ok, on to the Live Data Meter. Use this screen when the engine is running to monitor various parameters. With a fully warm engine, you can check Cylinder Rotational Velocity for each individual cylinders. This live data stream for the rotational velocity only works at idle, and only works on a motor that is fully warmed up. Scroll through each cylinder to see the values in percentages. Anything below 4% usually won't trigger a code.

There are other things you can monitor while driving. You can look at each drop down box for each section, and scroll through a huge list of options to watch. I'll give you a list of the most common ones you can start with:

- Injection control pressure
- Injection control pressure duty cycle
- Injector pulse width
- Mass fuel desired
- Manifold gauge pressure
- Engine RPM's

Those are the main ones I usually pull up first to monitor any truck. It gives me a quick look at what the boost, fueling, and high pressure oil is doing.

Anyway, hope this helps to get you started. Play around with it a bit to see what's available with the software, and to familiarize yourself with it.

One more thing to note... your mileage is actually pretty close to normal for trucks with 4.10's. You're turning higher RPM's, so mileage will suffer.

 

Great summary. The AE tool sounds priceless and I don't know how anyone could do any level of indepth diagnostic without it. An expensive tool for the average shade tree but from what I hear on this forum it does not sound like there is any substitute product for it.