engine removal
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Figured I'd post the link since we seem to add a page every day.
Junior User
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: Ely, NV
I have not changed an oil pan on a 6.9 yet, but on other vehicles it is possible to change it by only loosening the motor mounts and raising the engine off the frame. Sure does sound like alot work to pull an engine to change the oil pan. just my 2 cents
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
When you look at how close the cross member is and how big the oil pan is.....
If you loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine as far as you can and block it solid.
Then drop the pan on the cross member and remove the oil pump pickup tube, you are supposed to be able to get it out.
I have never tried it that way, but have read that it can be done.
If you are a decent wrench and have a helper, you can pull the engine out and turn around and put it right back in, around 9 hours time.
So I would put pulling the engine and changing the oil pan at 10 hours.
Sound right to you Dave?
If you loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine as far as you can and block it solid.
Then drop the pan on the cross member and remove the oil pump pickup tube, you are supposed to be able to get it out.
I have never tried it that way, but have read that it can be done.
If you are a decent wrench and have a helper, you can pull the engine out and turn around and put it right back in, around 9 hours time.
So I would put pulling the engine and changing the oil pan at 10 hours.
Sound right to you Dave?
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
Likes: 1
From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
Thats what I did when I went to put an oil cooler on, couldn't figure out how to get it out in the truck, decided it was easier so I unbolted it, and brought it all the way out, stuck the oil cooler on, took about 9 hours.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
When you look at how close the cross member is and how big the oil pan is.....
If you loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine as far as you can and block it solid.
Then drop the pan on the cross member and remove the oil pump pickup tube, you are supposed to be able to get it out.
I have never tried it that way, but have read that it can be done.
If you are a decent wrench and have a helper, you can pull the engine out and turn around and put it right back in, around 9 hours time.
So I would put pulling the engine and changing the oil pan at 10 hours.
Sound right to you Dave?
If you loosen the motor mounts and raise the engine as far as you can and block it solid.
Then drop the pan on the cross member and remove the oil pump pickup tube, you are supposed to be able to get it out.
I have never tried it that way, but have read that it can be done.
If you are a decent wrench and have a helper, you can pull the engine out and turn around and put it right back in, around 9 hours time.
So I would put pulling the engine and changing the oil pan at 10 hours.
Sound right to you Dave?
I would prefer to just pull the engine for lots of reasons.
For one thing working on my chest bent over is not usually very comfortable and I say that as some one in my early 20s. Also having 1000+ lbs of engine over my arms and maybe head while working isn't a nice thought either.
But have a look at this:
That oil pump has to drop before you can remove the pan. Now I guess the job can be done without disturbing the oil pump and pick up tube, but I'm trying to picture how some one could do a good job cleaning the gasket surfaces to get a seal thats going to last properly. By the book, the gasket should be RTV sealer, but I used the cork gasket that came with my engine kit (then used RTV).
I had a bit of an advantage because our shop has an overhead chain hoist that I used to raise and lower the engine, this allowed me to leave the front clip in place and roll the truck out from under the hoist rather easily.
It could probably be done without pulling the engine, but it really depends on what kind of equipment you have at your disposal and to give the new gasket the best chance I would prefer to pull the engine. That way you know you won't have to do it again any time soon.
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I have excellent equipment. 3 ton hoist on a large steel beam. My truck is a manual so no problems with the tranny.
It is a 4x4 if that makes a difference.
Lee
p.s. Is that cork gasket any good. Thats what they sold me.
It is a 4x4 if that makes a difference.
Lee
p.s. Is that cork gasket any good. Thats what they sold me.
Last edited by bpainting; Nov 19, 2008 at 08:12 AM. Reason: Add on
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Mine was a 2wd, but it shouldn't make much difference if its 4wd, Dave Sponaugle's trucj is 4wd so I don't see a problem. A universal joint for a 1/2" drive socket helps when reaching the engine mounts from underneath.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
I pulled the entire body (cab/front clip) all as one unit and I think it ended up saving me time. It was on a '93 that was pretty rusty. Pull the radiator, disconnect steering, brakes, wiring, and shift linkage and you're in business. The most difficult part was unbolting the six body mounts. They were pretty much shot anyway - and they needed replacing anyway. Saved me the aggrivation of messing with disconnecting the exhaust and drivetrain.