Headlight switch problem
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Headlight switch problem
I searched some old posts and it pointed me in the right direction but some more input would be great.
Turned on the lights the other night and all i had was head lights. No dash, tail, or parking lights. Checked all fuses and they were all good. Searched on here and found that people had the same problem and it was the headlight switch. I bought a new one from NAPA, put in on and still have the same problem. Looked as if the old switch had gotten hot cause the connector was burnt looking and a little deformed. I bought a new plug with all the wires and still didnt fix it. I put the old switch back on and I can jiggle the **** a little and get everything to work but not at all with the new switch. Somebody mentioned bad wiring somewhere in the dash, but I just don't see it because I can get everything to work with the old switch. If bad wiring was the culprit, seems the switch wouldn't matter. Ive been driving around with the old switch just hanging down while i have it apart and noticed that the switch gets pretty hot. Seems too hot for it to be good.
Sorry for the long post guys. Any ideas??
Thanks
Turned on the lights the other night and all i had was head lights. No dash, tail, or parking lights. Checked all fuses and they were all good. Searched on here and found that people had the same problem and it was the headlight switch. I bought a new one from NAPA, put in on and still have the same problem. Looked as if the old switch had gotten hot cause the connector was burnt looking and a little deformed. I bought a new plug with all the wires and still didnt fix it. I put the old switch back on and I can jiggle the **** a little and get everything to work but not at all with the new switch. Somebody mentioned bad wiring somewhere in the dash, but I just don't see it because I can get everything to work with the old switch. If bad wiring was the culprit, seems the switch wouldn't matter. Ive been driving around with the old switch just hanging down while i have it apart and noticed that the switch gets pretty hot. Seems too hot for it to be good.
Sorry for the long post guys. Any ideas??
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
Maybe the new headlight switch is not any good. Usually if you have that problem and messing with the switch gets them to work the switch is bad. If the new switch doesn't work at all, I would say to try another switch.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: 83 mile house bc.
the org. sw.burnt+deformed? to do that there has to be>[ poor ground /shorting circuit /defective sw.>when they heat up to a certain point there's a "circuit breaker "that cuts out till it cools then come's on again > alot of my ford's had that problem! but in the day time no trouble /there's also a dash relay can cause problems / most likely the sw. but look for resistance"a break" in the elec.circuitry !
and good luck with the 101 
of elec faults
and good luck with the 101 of elec faults
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 11,958
Likes: 228
I have seen where just the switch itself causes the burnt connector. Several times I have seen where a new switch and connector fixes the problem.
I agree though that there may be another electrical problem. I would also try checking what was just mentioned.
I agree though that there may be another electrical problem. I would also try checking what was just mentioned.
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: 83 mile house bc.
dimmer sw. ring any bells too >like putting your foot all most through the floor-boards to get the head lights back on at 60 ml. per
is fun too >that corrosive devil works over-time
fun on the 101 elec.prob. trail !then go direct line>cut out the crap in between allways works
to get the head lights back on at 60 ml. per is fun too >that corrosive devil works over-timefun on the 101 elec.prob. trail !then go direct line>cut out the crap in between allways works
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
No I don't have any auxillary lighting anywhere. I thought the same thing about a new switch being bad so I went and got another new switch and same problem. That's two new switches that don't fix the problem.
I suppose the next step is to start checking wires at the connector and following them back and checking resistance.
If anyone has any other suggestions feel free to post them. Thanks guys. And I'll post when I find something.
I suppose the next step is to start checking wires at the connector and following them back and checking resistance.
If anyone has any other suggestions feel free to post them. Thanks guys. And I'll post when I find something.
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,572
Likes: 0
From: Macedon, NY
When this failure occurred to my 1990 F150, the damage extended to the connector on the headlight switch as well. I had to snip it off and replace it with a new connector. It was a PITA, but it solved the problem.
-JR
-JR
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Well I still have the same problem. Ive been searching everywhere for a diagram of what each wire in the switch controls but cant find anything. I have a Haynes manual but the wire colors shown in the book dont match the colors I have in the truck. This is what I have found out so far:
I have 3 hot wires coming into the switch with the switch off. All but one are hot when the switch is on (think the one that isnt hot controls my radio dimmer, which doesnt matter since I have an aftermarket CD player). Checked continuity on the plug and compared it with a 94 model that works great. Connection D2 has a much higher resistance than the 94 (more than double). Connection B2 on the old switch is burnt looking, the wire that connects there is tan/white stripe. Not sure where that runs to though.
Seems it would help if I knew where each wire ran so I could test each wire. Ive read that alot of people have similar problems but noone is posting solutions so I'm feeling lost here...
I have 3 hot wires coming into the switch with the switch off. All but one are hot when the switch is on (think the one that isnt hot controls my radio dimmer, which doesnt matter since I have an aftermarket CD player). Checked continuity on the plug and compared it with a 94 model that works great. Connection D2 has a much higher resistance than the 94 (more than double). Connection B2 on the old switch is burnt looking, the wire that connects there is tan/white stripe. Not sure where that runs to though.
Seems it would help if I knew where each wire ran so I could test each wire. Ive read that alot of people have similar problems but noone is posting solutions so I'm feeling lost here...
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,572
Likes: 0
From: Macedon, NY
Now, this is based on my 1990 F150:
Color__Terminal____________Description
----- --------- ---------------------------------------------
O/BK___DN________Power to radio LCD display
LG/Y___D1________Power from fuse panel for dome lamp
BK/PK__D2________Switched power to dome lamp
Y/BK___IGN_______Power on when ignition on
BR_____R_________Switched power to marker lamps and tail lamps
R/Y____H_________Switched power to dimmer switch for Hi/Lo headlamps
BK/O___B1________Power from fuse link L for headlamps
T/W___B2_________Power from fuse panel for marker lamps and tail lamps
LB/R___I__________Switched and dimmed power to instrument lamps
Hope that helps.
Happy Thanksgiving,
-JR
Color__Terminal____________Description
----- --------- ---------------------------------------------
O/BK___DN________Power to radio LCD display
LG/Y___D1________Power from fuse panel for dome lamp
BK/PK__D2________Switched power to dome lamp
Y/BK___IGN_______Power on when ignition on
BR_____R_________Switched power to marker lamps and tail lamps
R/Y____H_________Switched power to dimmer switch for Hi/Lo headlamps
BK/O___B1________Power from fuse link L for headlamps
T/W___B2_________Power from fuse panel for marker lamps and tail lamps
LB/R___I__________Switched and dimmed power to instrument lamps
Hope that helps.
Happy Thanksgiving,
-JR
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
Great News! Found that I had no continuity from pin B2 to the fuse block. Found a small section of the wire was melted. Replaced it and installed my previously bought new switch and everything was good to go! Thanks Suburban, for the help.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
Postmaster
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,572
Likes: 0
From: Macedon, NY
93Sunplex,
Glad it worked out for you. I was lucky (if you can call it that) in that all of my heat damage was at the switch. Once I replaced the switch and the connector, I was back in business.
There is quite a bit of load going through that switch. Maybe a relay arrangement should have been used?
Talk to you later,
-JR
Glad it worked out for you. I was lucky (if you can call it that) in that all of my heat damage was at the switch. Once I replaced the switch and the connector, I was back in business.
There is quite a bit of load going through that switch. Maybe a relay arrangement should have been used?
Talk to you later,
-JR
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
92 Black Nite
Electrical Systems/Wiring
241
Jan 27, 2023 06:16 PM
80f250ranger
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Apr 22, 2013 06:08 PM
92 Black Nite
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Jan 25, 2010 10:05 AM