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As far as I know there is no way to test if you have a functioning EGR and the delete kits make it look like its still there.
you can weld the valve shut so it is in place for a visual inspection..that's assuming the inspector has a clue as to what he's looking at......the best kits have the valve removed completely and the intake manifold welded up where the valve would be located...
to the OP: pull the cab or motor to do the studs...the procedure is so common that the price for labor is really coming down...i have a guy here in town that charges an even $1000 for the labor and his work is top notch...
Thanks for the info. I pretty much figured it would require removing the top end but for whatever reason didn't want to accept it without more input.
Well with this new info it seems I'll just run it till the warrenty expires prior to doing the studs. I do a fair amount of towing in the 8k to 14k range and am concerned that I may get stuck out on the road somewhere. That would be bad.
As far as the EGR delete I am all for it as long as I can still pass the yearly state inspection. I'll have to do some research on whether or not this is an inspected item.
I get mine smog check also, with the EGR valve blocked off my numbers were better. The EGR is a worthless piece of junk that increases emissions. Mine passes even with the Cat hollowed out. I say go figure.
i have an 03 F350 Crewcab dually bone stock.125,000 miles bought new with 13 miles on the clock.
I tow a gooseneck trailer that is 9 feet tall 40 feet long and tip the Cat scales a little over 25,000 LBS loaded.
Never had a problem with EGR or head gaskets.
this winter im going to put in studs remove the egr and maybe a new turbo to get rid of that stupid vgt turbo that keeps sticking on me!! I highly suggest doihg it preventative...
Working it like that is whats keeping your EGR and Turbo cleaned out. As long as you don't crowd it too much you shouldn't have head problems. We've grossed 26-29k quite often with my dad's '03 6.0L and he's going on 70k with no problems other than the rear main leaking slowly. My '03 also has had no head problems. I think I've read the '03s seem to have less head issues than later years, perhaps they were more careful about torquing them properly early on.
Originally Posted by BobsF350
i have an 03 F350 Crewcab dually bone stock.125,000 miles bought new with 13 miles on the clock.
I tow a gooseneck trailer that is 9 feet tall 40 feet long and tip the Cat scales a little over 25,000 LBS loaded.
Never had a problem with EGR or head gaskets.
It's funny how these same topics come up and the info is slightly different in each one. It's my understanding after reading many of these posts in the past, that the most problematic years for head gaskets were the first ones, namely 03 and 04. I also believe that the predominant reason for head gasket failure is in fact poorly machined heads combined with a poor choice of head bolt. Many things can cause a head gasket failure, but the root cause was the heads themselves and the bolts.
Just some information for thought.
And by the way Dirtleg, if you are doing a lot of towing, the best investment you can make is in a set of gauges or a monitor so you can see whats happening before you do any damage, oh, and get yourself an aftermarket exhaust to drop your EGT's. Less heat definately equalls longer life!!
I think I've read the '03s seem to have less head issues than later years, perhaps they were more careful about torquing them properly early on.
I think that is exactly right. Torqued correctly. Even for any other year trucks. How many engines do you hear about, after they have been fixed right (flat heads) and torqued right, that have stretched the bolts again? I really believe that there are a lot of trucks that were torqued correctly from the factory and have no issues. My cousin is one of them. He has an '04 also and he drives it hard, pulls equipment all the time and also a 36ft 5th wheel. His truck has only been in the shop for the reflashes.
I agree that you either have a "good one" or a "bad one". If you have 60K and no problems, you probably won't. I personally would wait untill a problem before going to studs. I have 104K and no problems. I run a good custom HOT SCT tune for a daily driver and have seen 1400deg EGT occasionally. I don't beat on it, and if the gaskets go, then I will go to studs.
Lot of good comments. After alot of reading i'm wondering if there isn't a couple of reasons for head gasket problems. 1. Chipping and/or 2. EGR valve clogs, sticks or fails/EGR cooler and oil cooler plugs from lack of water filter or some other reason thereby OVERHEATING the engine and blowing head gaskets. I'm surprised I haven't read one post yet (maybe they're there) that attributes head gasket failure/stud stretching to overheating. Am I totally wet on this?????
Revisiting this thread after alot of reading, researching and spending time in the truck. My original question now seems somewhat niave. I was running the Spartan MSE tune and after a hard pull on the highway smelled coolant at a stoplight. Not sure if it was mine as it hasn't done it again but am thinking most likely the EGR cooler boiled the coolant. I am not so concerned about head bolts at the moment but I am aware that I won't be totally at peace as long as there aren't studs clamping the heads on. Not just with this motor but with any boosted motor.
Imagine the difference in public opinion on the 6.0 if they had just made these things bulletproof from the get go. As I have always said in business "it will never cost less than to do it right the first time".
The question had been asked about head gasket failures after EGR cooler delete. My question would be do people still see headgasket failure after replacing bolts with studs and not deleting the EGR. I agree the EGR is bad for these motors (any motor really) but don't know if the studs cure this issue up when the EGR is functional or not.
You will find folks w/ ARP studs that have had repeat headgasket leaks - although I think it is rare. This does not mean that the ARP studs are a bad investment/product. It most likely means that the heads were warped and not fixed, the block deck was not level, or the block/heads were not cleaned well enough before re-assembling. There are probably other possibilities, but I think these are the most likely.
You can always be susceptible to repeat EGR cooler failures - studded or not (unless you have deleted the entire EGR system).