Stud Question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Cloverdale VA
Stud Question
Hello all. I just got my 6.0 a week ago w 70,000 miles on it. I bought it in spite of the knowledge that headgaskets are a time bomb on these motors.
My question is would it be possible to replace the head bolts with studs without removing the heads? My gut tells me no but I am certainly not a guru in these waters. My goal is obviously to prevent the headgaskets from blowing in the first place.
My concerns would be that if 1 bolt were replaced at a time the heads would crack due to uneven torque stresses. Or if all the bolts were untorqued the headgaskets would somehow lose their seal in the process.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but sometimes you just have to ask.
My question is would it be possible to replace the head bolts with studs without removing the heads? My gut tells me no but I am certainly not a guru in these waters. My goal is obviously to prevent the headgaskets from blowing in the first place.
My concerns would be that if 1 bolt were replaced at a time the heads would crack due to uneven torque stresses. Or if all the bolts were untorqued the headgaskets would somehow lose their seal in the process.
Sorry if this is a dumb question but sometimes you just have to ask.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
From: Everett, PA
You'll find on here that it is STRONGLY advised for you to take the heads off and have new gaskets put in while you're at it. Thats the best way to do it and make sure it doesn't need to be redone. Its always best to do it once and do it right.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,612
Likes: 2
From: Dunwoody, GA
The heads should be removed to install the studs. You can do it without lifting the cab but it takes a lot of patience and time from what I've read. Someone posted a semi-how-to here a short while ago.
Posting Guru
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,990
Likes: 1
From: Middleburg, FL
Just to add to the discussion, if I was going to go through the cost and effort of installing studs, I'd also do an EGR delete at the same time. That way you'd eliminate three of the main reliability problems with the 6.0 (HG issues, EGR cooler issues, EGR valve issues) at one time.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 554
Likes: 0
From: Everett, PA
Just to add to the discussion, if I was going to go through the cost and effort of installing studs, I'd also do an EGR delete at the same time. That way you'd eliminate three of the main reliability problems with the 6.0 (HG issues, EGR cooler issues, EGR valve issues) at one time.
Agreed, the only reason mine didn't get done like that was because they were done under warranty. EGR delete is high on my list though!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
I've run some pretty hot tunes without getting any puking or headgasket problems. I would leave it alone until you either have a problem or you have the cab off doing other work. Yes, some people have done headstuds without pulling the heads or cab, but it is generally advised against. It is very hard to get the torque wrench on the rear bolts doing it that way and you chance not torquing everything evenly. I'm waiting until I have a reason to pull the cab, then I have a list of stuff to do, including heatstuds.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 393
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From: Bountiful, Utah
Has anyone blown head gaskets after the EGR blocked off? (stock or tuned)? Just curious because, I believe that most Head Gasket problems are caused from the EGR cooler and/or EGR valve failures.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 724
Likes: 2
From: Sarasota, fl
So it's true that some - maybe most - of the head gasket problems are caused by EGR , but not all of them...
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,757
Likes: 5
From: Corvallis, OR
I'd say most of the head gasket problems are due to there not being enough bolts per cylinder and Ford used TTY bolts instead of studs to begin with. A lot of people with EGR deleted still have head gasket problems.
Elder User
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 724
Likes: 2
From: Sarasota, fl
IMO it isn't about warping to begin with. It's more like high boost, really weak bolts. If you blow your head gasket or gaskets, and you catch it right when it happens, pull the heads, they are not necessarily warped. The head bolts are the cause of it.
I don't know if it's true that the pass side is the first-one, I've had both sides gone...
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 164
Likes: 2
From: Cloverdale VA
Thanks for the info. I pretty much figured it would require removing the top end but for whatever reason didn't want to accept it without more input.
Well with this new info it seems I'll just run it till the warrenty expires prior to doing the studs. I do a fair amount of towing in the 8k to 14k range and am concerned that I may get stuck out on the road somewhere. That would be bad.
As far as the EGR delete I am all for it as long as I can still pass the yearly state inspection. I'll have to do some research on whether or not this is an inspected item.
Well with this new info it seems I'll just run it till the warrenty expires prior to doing the studs. I do a fair amount of towing in the 8k to 14k range and am concerned that I may get stuck out on the road somewhere. That would be bad.
As far as the EGR delete I am all for it as long as I can still pass the yearly state inspection. I'll have to do some research on whether or not this is an inspected item.