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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 08:11 PM
  #1  
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coolant question

been reading alot of stuff about coolant stuff... sca... elc bla bla... i have decided to go with the international stuff when the time comes... question............... is........... i understand now theres two diffrent kinds of coolant... one with sca ''or whatever its called'' and the elc... how can you tell the diffrence between a elc coolant that needs no additive and a coolant that needs one? because i have no idea what i have in it?? and if i have a elc in it now ill hold off on the flush and do a tranny flush first.... am i correct on this info? btw its an 02 150k green coolant...
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 08:24 PM
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makohon;
check your owners manual. I have a 2003 7.3 and the manual says with the green coolant you need an addative but with the yellow/gold coolant none is required. Addictive keeps the coolant from cavitating and making bubbles that attach to the cylinder walls.
John
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 09:12 PM
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i know cavitation... but isnt there green elc? or is it not green?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Green coolant is always "standard" coolant. Coolants are dyed to identify them. I have gold stuff in my truck, and it came that way from the factory. They started using it in 02, and you can put it in yours. It's a "Hybrid-OAT", which means it has some SCAs, and some Organic Acids. It lasts 100k. Full ELC comes in a few colors, blue, red, etc. Most use the red stuff, which is usually Rotella ELC or Final Charge Global ELC.

A couple tips... DO NOT use DexCool under any circumstances. Also, don't use the "Mixes with any color" stuff either. The Gold stuff can be bought at AutoZone or whaterver, and it's called Xerex G05. I found Final Charge at Napa in concentrate for about $17/gallon, which is what I'm changing to in the Spring.

To switch, you need to flush your system completely with distilled water. It will take several drains & top-offs with the distilled before it comes out clean. You'll need to run it until the thermostat opens to get the block completely cleaned out. The last time, drain it again, top if off with 4 gallons of concentrate, and fill it the rest of the way with distilled. The system holds 8 gallons, so that will get you to 50/50. Don't use pre-mixed coolant because you can't get the block completely drained, and you'll end up with light coolant mix (about 40/60).

Another pointer -- since you're opening the system, get the "around the belt" hose (for a dual alt system), and a 203* stat & billet housing from DieselSite.com. That way, if the belt ever lets go, you won't need to open the system to change it. Here are a couple sites for your reading pleasure:

Final Charge Antifreeze Home Page
San Carlos Radiator 1-650-593-3193 (click on the "Antifreeze" linked text, and you might want to read the DexCool link as well, just for some interesting reading).
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 10:53 PM
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so is any elc coolant good for a diesel or is it specific 2 a diesel? i know not dexacool.... i did about 2 hrs research but i still have a few questions.. thanks for the info tho!!!
 
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Old Nov 6, 2008 | 11:21 PM
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You're looking for "Heavy Duty ELC"...
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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P lease don't make the mistake i did. I seen prestone all makes and models, ELC and it was for all light trucks and cars. I flushed and filled and ran it til i see the heavey duty ELC on a web-site, ugghh, NONO, Izzy above and a few other ones here corrected me on my mistake and i found the right stuff for our trucks and switched it out. This is the stuff you need above and here, i got Cat 50-50 elc, Rotella ELC Fleetgaurde ELC and so on..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 07:43 AM
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....and it normally will have something on the label mentioning that it meets certain diesel engine specs (like Cat EC-1, etc.).
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
....and it normally will have something on the label mentioning that it meats certain diesel engine specs (like Cat EC-1, etc.).
That it MEATS HUH, STEAK AND EGGS THIS MORNING jOE, LOL. Hi-jack over
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 07:50 AM
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Yes. Meats. It's too early for that crap...

EDIT: I fixed it. Happy now??? LMAO!!!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Izzy351
Yes. Meats. It's too early for that crap...

EDIT: I fixed it. Happy now??? LMAO!!!
nothing like a good laugh in the morning. I got alot of nerve, my wife is my spell checker but sometimes she,s not here, uh o.. opps, hi-jack over.....sorry..
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 09:25 AM
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I second the Zerex G/05 Gold. I did a full flush when I bought my truck a year ago and filled with the Zerex (50/50 with distilled water) and haven't had a problem yet. The SoCal summers can get pretty hot when you're sitting in traffic (or off-roading in the desert) and my temp gage never moves when I'm warmed up. Stop and go traffic, idling or even sucking somebody's dust in the desert doesn't affect my temps. In fact, my cooling fan cycles very little. I think it's good for a 300,000 mile service interval too.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 07:17 PM
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cool... thanks guys!!!
 
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Old Nov 7, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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Final Charge at pepboys for $10.00 a gallon. It's a 50/50. Take care. Country
 
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Old Nov 8, 2008 | 12:36 PM
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also one more thing how long does it take cavitation to happen? because i used one of the fleetgaurd test strips and if im reading correctly it reads 0!! the nitrate is at A on the chart and the molybdate is row 2... hopefully this hasnt been like this for a long while.. ive owned the truck for only a year ''02 150k'' you read the strip with the part you hold onto at the bottom of chart correct? well im going to my IH dealer right now to get coolant and as far as the thermostats go on these can i just but a pepboys one of should i go to the dealer?
 
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