I am going tomorrow to look at a 74' 460 V8 and C-6 trans. I will be using them just to rebuild to a high HP reliable engine for desert racing. The guy said it came out of a 1974 car. Are the engines and trans in the car different from what came in the trucks. I will be putting it in a F-100 with a 390 but will be making my own motor mounts anyway. Is there anything I should look for in particular on the motor. Any sort of block number, model number, any type of markings to look for.

 

Well.... if its a 74 motor .....there wont be much difference in them...But the later model blocks will have a deck height of 10.322" and supposedly a little thicker sleves according to some but dont bank on it! Check too see if it has the D3 heads...Those work pretty good with some porting.. and the later blocks with the slightly taller deck are better for stroker motors..because they have longer sleeve's...and carry the piston better....JMO

~Russ

 

LOL.... Thanks ...i jump in and out with that one after kiddy hour!!

 

I plan on putting aluminum heads on the motor but just for GP how do I know what heads are on it. Any thing special to look for in the tranny or are all C6's created equal?

 

for a 74 the block should be a D1VE and the heads should be D3VE. about the only ones to look out for would be if it has D2VE heads, those are a very large open chamber head that was only used 1 yr (1972) and were very prone to detonation or knocking so are recommended to stay away from. It shouldn't have them but worth looking in case someone has changed the engine with a junkyard engine sometime in the past 30yrs.

Only other thing as far as putting it in your truck is the oil pan will be a front sump and if your truck is a 4x4 your going to need to switch to a rear sump pan. Also remember the bellhousings are different between those engines.

 

About the only engine difference between cars and trucks, is that the trucks will use a slightly better connecting rod-for a stock piece. Passenger car rods have a square head-rod bolt, which is said to cause a weak spot on the big end of the rod. Truck rods use a football shaped rod bolt head-and is similar to what the 429 cj/scj's used.

Other than that, in 74 it should be internally balanced. Just look behind the harmonic balancer, and if it is a straight sleeve-it should be internally balanced. If there looks/feels like a small crank throw counterweight behind the harmonic balancer-it should be externally balanced.

Save your money for a good set of heads, some H beam rods, and forged pistons, and never look back!

 

I plan on building the motor completly with new heads pistons crank rods and cam and intake. With that in mind does it matter if it comes out of a car? And is there anything special to do to it. The motor will be moved back in the truck to balance out wieght so motor mounts are not an issue. I will also end up going to a dry sump oil system. What does it mean if it is internally or externally balanced, is one better than the other?

 

Yeah, but it's over the top, and I was all set to warn you about it and now it's gone again

Thread moved to the 385-series forum

 

LOL Ok Art !! It was only up for about an hour!! So for me being a good boy now ? I get some rep points from huh??

~Russ

 

Well if its a D3 motor ut probably has the D heads on it.. But if your going to go to Aluminum anyway that a Mute point... Kasse has some Great 429/460 heads that flow damn good right out of the box...and can be had for arounf $2100 complete... JMO..

~Russ

 

internally/externally balanced isn't really important so much as which is better as long as you have the correct dampener spacer adn the correct flywheel/flexplate for the way the crank is balanced. If your building it all new and for performance you can have it balanced whichever way you want it with the proper pieces. IF your going to be turning a lot of rpms (7000+) then I would suggest going with internal balanced but even at that it's not a big issue as long as it is balanced.
Since it sounds like you plan on replacing everythign but the block then no nothing special about car vs truck, that engine isn't anything special but it's not anything bad either. IF you plan on going with a stroker then I personally would look for a later model engine with a D9TE block casting number because the cyl walls are a little longer at the bottom end and support the piston better at BDC but otherwise that engine will work just fine.

 

Lets get these two threads merged together so not to be anymore confusing then needed.