Python 950 Remote Start
I'm guessing you tried to initiate the valet take-over with your foot on the brake. You might have accidently entered a programming mode. There is a setting to have the park lights flash on and off while the remote start is active. The flashing LED also makes me think this. If disconnecting the batteries doesn't fix the problem then you could go through all the programming settings and manually reset each one.
You can try to see what the last shutdown diagnostics shows by doing the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, press and HOLD the Valet/Program switch.
2. Turn the ignition ON and then back OFF while HOLDING the Valet/Program switch.
3. Release the Valet/Program switch.
4. Press and release the Valet/Program switch. The LED will report the last shutdown for one minute or until the ignition is turned on.
LED FLASHES - SHUTDOWN MODE
One - Timed out
Two - Over-rev shutdown
Three - Low or no RPM
Four - Transmitter shutdown (or optional push-button)
Six - (-) Shutdown (H3/4 GRAY) or (+) Shutdown (H3/3 BROWN)
Seven - (-) Neutral safety shutdown (H3/1 BLACK/WHITE)
Eight - Wait-to-start timed out
Shutdown mode was 6 LED flashes, but I'm not sure what that means.
Is the next step manually reprogramming all the settings? I didn't do the original install, so that should be interesting. I presume it's all about doing routines like I did for adjusting crank time?
As someone suggested, I pulled the battery from the remote and climbed under the dash and unplugged the antennae from the brain. To make more room for me to fit down there, I pushed in the e-brake pedal. After waiting nearly a minute, I plugged the antennae back into the brain and put the battery back into the remote. Low and behold, she started up with the remote!
So then I thought I would drive my truck back to work and the first thing I did was release the ebrake pedal. The second I did that, the truck shut down and the lights started flickering again, so I was right back to where I was before. Quite discouraging.
I climbed back down under the dash to get a better look at the ebrake assembly. There was a black wire that was getting pulled by the assembly when the ebrake was released. I found where this wire was grounded to the wall, and it had very nearly pulled out of it's crimped o-ring connector! Once I re-routed and regrounded the wire, everything is fine.
That's what I get for letting someone else do the install. I should have done it myself instead of spending the same amount of time cleaning up someone else's mess.
As someone suggested, I pulled the battery from the remote and climbed under the dash and unplugged the antennae from the brain. To make more room for me to fit down there, I pushed in the e-brake pedal. After waiting nearly a minute, I plugged the antennae back into the brain and put the battery back into the remote. Low and behold, she started up with the remote!
So then I thought I would drive my truck back to work and the first thing I did was release the ebrake pedal. The second I did that, the truck shut down and the lights started flickering again, so I was right back to where I was before. Quite discouraging.
I climbed back down under the dash to get a better look at the ebrake assembly. There was a black wire that was getting pulled by the assembly when the ebrake was released. I found where this wire was grounded to the wall, and it had very nearly pulled out of it's crimped o-ring connector! Once I re-routed and regrounded the wire, everything is fine.
That's what I get for letting someone else do the install. I should have done it myself instead of spending the same amount of time cleaning up someone else's mess.
Though I'm quite certain somebody else did the install.
After work I'll clean up some of the wiring and re-mount the brain. After that, I'll (hopefully) be trouble free for a long long time.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts






