Python 950 Remote Start
15 seconds appears to be the minimum wait to start time, according to the installation instructions, or am I missing something? I think if this time could be dropped into the neighborhood of 7 to 10 seconds, it would make all the difference.
Yes, I've already tried upping my cranking time. Still a no-go that first start of the morning. I first set it at 1.4 seconds and have increased it all the way to 2.0 seconds and still no light that first start of the morning. The next increment is 4.0 seconds, and I'm not going there. Besides, I think increasing the cranking time is just a band-aid for the real problem (too long of a wait-to-start time).
I'd like to get this resolved before ice fishing season rolls around. Timer mode (automatically starts and runs the truck for 24 minutes every three hours) won't do me much good if the truck doesn't light off.
Any ideas?
check out this thread i started last year when i first got my remote start and had a lot of the same questions as you. this is how i learned about bit writers and then brought it to the attention of the shop and then they were like o ya if we use a bit writer we can do what ever you want.
i got a lot of good help from a member EnviroCon.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...e-starter.html
I was thinking about buying my own bitwriter. They're on ebay for around $100. However, I think that if the 4 second crank time really does work, and if I can get the shop to use their bitwriter to change the WTS time to something like 9 or 10, then I probably don't need it.
Is the buzzing noise OK, or will whatever the cause of the noise is increase wear on the starter (or other parts)?
Also, what settings work well for you, as far as your crank time versus WTS time?
i believe mine is set up for the 4 sec crank and it works 100% of the time (cold/hot whatever)
i can't say for sure what my wait to start is set to but i would guess its 15 secs and not 10 secs.
i have no problems with this either and i think you glow plugs show stay hot enough to start for 2 or 3 mins.
maybe you have an underlying glowplug issue? but if you can get away with programing your python so it works best for your exact truck do it!
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There is a slight buzzing noise present that goes away after the key is released to the run position, but no starter grind.
Is the buzzing noise OK, or will whatever the cause of the noise is increase wear on the starter (or other parts)?
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
i guess i type to slow.
i was wondering the same things...
I called the local Viper dealer, and he said I could swing by anytime and they would change the WTS to whatever I wanted.
So...
First I'm going to change the crank time to 4 seconds and probably ohm out the glows to see what kind of shape they're in (since I can do those things myself). I'll be surprised if a glow needs changing, but I've been wrong before. Then sometime in the not so distant future I'll probably swing by the Viper shop and have them drop the WTS time too.
Thanks to you both for your help!
BTW: Riggz... did someone contact you yesterday? I gave a guy your email addy, as he was interested in your Xcal2 genius.
I didn't really notice where it was coming from, I guess.
In the other thread that Adambomb previously linked to, Envirocon says that these trucks have an anti-grind feature built into them, and the starters will automatically disengage when the engine starts. He said to test this, start your truck and continue holding the key in the start position after its running.
He was right... the starter disengaged even though I never stopped holding the key in the start position. But there was a slight buzz, like I mentioned.
I didn't really notice where it was coming from, I guess.
In the other thread that Adambomb previously linked to, Envirocon says that these trucks have an anti-grind feature built into them, and the starters will automatically disengage when the engine starts. He said to test this, start your truck and continue holding the key in the start position after its running.
He was right... the starter disengaged even though I never stopped holding the key in the start position. But there was a slight buzz, like I mentioned.
Yeah, the Viper also has an anti-grind feature so I was thinking that maybe that was the noise. But I've never tried this so I don't know if the noise is there without the alarm.
And yes I did receive an email. I gave him my address. Thanks for the referral.
I stopped at the store and decided to try and use the Valet take-over so the engine would stay running while I ran into the store. I hit the start button twice and shut off they key. The engine shut down even though it should have stayed running.
Being stubborn, I fired the truck up manually again, and tried again except this time I might have held the start button for a while instead of pushing it twice (can't remember for sure). I don't remember the exact sequence of events after this point, but somewhere along the line the exhaust icon stayed lit up for quite a while on the remote (even though the truck wasn't running) and the lights on the truck flashed over and over again till I did something to stop them.
Now my remote start button doesn't work, no rx or tx light on the remote. Nothing, nada, zip. No response from the truck or the remote.
The lock button quickly chirps my door dinger (strange), the lock icon turns on on the remote, and the LED on the dash starts flashing. Also flashing for a short period of time is the trunk icon on the remote (also strange). The doors don't lock.
The unlock button stops the LED on the dash from flashing, and changes the icon on the remote to unlock.
The auxilary button still fires the relay that controls my high idle, just as it's supposed to.
I'm upset cuz I can't for the life of me figure out what I did and/or how to fix it. The Viper shop can't look at it till next week, and I have a trip coming up this weekend.
Now pressing my start button quickly makes my lights flash repeatedly and the exhause icon show on my remote until I step on the brake (but does not start the vehicle). My lock button still triggers the lock icon on the remote, no longer triggers the trunk icon on the remote, and still does not lock the doors.
Lock and aux still work the same as above.
I'm lost.




