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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 05:55 PM
  #46  
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TheTinian
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From: Fl
Sorry to butt in...but I just hooked up my X-over in my truck. I had the push-pull setup with the block and all before. The bumpsteer was terrible, and the most annoying thing for me was I couldnt turn my wheels going any less then 10mph. It was ALMOST impossible with the 38's. I would literally have to rev the motor to about 1500-2000 rpm and use both hands to turn the wheel to say...get into a parking space for example. I finished hooking up my draglink tonight, and just going back and forth about 20 feet I could IMMEDIATLEY tell the difference. It was amazing. I could turn the wheel with ease...almost one finger.....and this is with new 40x17 wides.
I have definatly got to agree that the push/pull setup absolutley, hands down SUCKS.
To the OP, i would definatly recommend going to the crossover setup. It is well worth the money.

On a side note, Ed back onto a subject of a draglink, how much threads do you have showing on your TRE's...or how much should you have? I had my Drag link made, and I'm thinking it may be a little too long. I have maybe a 1/4 of thread showing on each side. Kinda worried when it comes to really aligning it right I'm gonna have some issues.
 
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Old Nov 12, 2008 | 06:16 PM
  #47  
TexasRho83's Avatar
TexasRho83
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From: N of Houston, TX
Originally Posted by 75F350
TexasRho83:

Your upgrade to x-over is a very simple approach. Since you have a 78/9 power steering box, you can remove the pitman arm and re-index it to swing from left to right instead of front to rear.
Your arm can be installed at every 90 degrees, and this is as easy as it gets.
Next will be to bolt on steering arm to the pass side knuckle, and install new fasteners.
Connect the pitman arm to the steering arm with a new drag link, and you are done.

Now a few snags that were not mentioned would be chosing the correct length drag link if you are making your own, and chosing the correct tapper for the appropriate TRE if you chose to run TRE's.
Otherwise you have the option of using spherical rod ends, and then you can drill the holes in the pitman and steering arms yourself. 3/4" will do it.

For your truck, this is probably a two to three beer project...
Awesome! If I buy the kit how many beers am I down to?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2008 | 12:09 AM
  #48  
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75F350
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Joined: Jul 2006
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Originally Posted by TheTinian
Sorry to butt in...but I just hooked up my X-over in my truck. I had the push-pull setup with the block and all before. The bumpsteer was terrible, and the most annoying thing for me was I couldnt turn my wheels going any less then 10mph. It was ALMOST impossible with the 38's. I would literally have to rev the motor to about 1500-2000 rpm and use both hands to turn the wheel to say...get into a parking space for example. I finished hooking up my draglink tonight, and just going back and forth about 20 feet I could IMMEDIATLEY tell the difference. It was amazing. I could turn the wheel with ease...almost one finger.....and this is with new 40x17 wides.
I have definatly got to agree that the push/pull setup absolutley, hands down SUCKS.
To the OP, i would definatly recommend going to the crossover setup. It is well worth the money.

On a side note, Ed back onto a subject of a draglink, how much threads do you have showing on your TRE's...or how much should you have? I had my Drag link made, and I'm thinking it may be a little too long. I have maybe a 1/4 of thread showing on each side. Kinda worried when it comes to really aligning it right I'm gonna have some issues.
Amazing how well a drive is after the x-over upgrade. Yes, we agree that the factory design is junk,
Anyway, I run my heim joints almost all of the way in. With the jam nut, I only see a few threads exposed. I believe that the rod end it strongest the further it is run in. I have no data to support this but it seems reasonable.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:34 AM
  #49  
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Habeascoffee
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From: Spanaway, WA
quick question: do any of you think a truck that hasn't been lifted could benefit from x-over upgrade? I'm not big on lifting my rigs. It was fun when I was younger but I'm not really into it now. If I were to ever lift another rig I'd only go 2".
 
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Old Jan 17, 2009 | 10:22 AM
  #50  
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75F350
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"Christine" is gonna have a little clearance problem if you were to consider x-over of any type. There is simply not enough clearance to clear the driver side spring once this upgrade is made.
Your truck will benifit, but it is more difficult to accomplish.

I was looking at your ride,,,,,,is that a 4wd truck?
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 05:49 AM
  #51  
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Habeascoffee
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From: Spanaway, WA
No. Just a 2wd. Thanks for the info. I'm always looking for tips.

...

I was just checking out different versions of x-over steering. I'm thinking I don't want to lift my rig that high in order to fit that stuff in.
 
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Old Jan 19, 2009 | 11:08 AM
  #52  
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75F350
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Originally Posted by Habeascoffee
No. Just a 2wd. Thanks for the info. I'm always looking for tips.

...

I was just checking out different versions of x-over steering. I'm thinking I don't want to lift my rig that high in order to fit that stuff in.

X-over steering is a 4wd upgrade. The 2wd truck has a steering system much like a car already, and cant benifit from this 4wd modification.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 12:58 AM
  #53  
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Habeascoffee
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From: Spanaway, WA
Yeah. I'll be happy with what I've got. Thanks. I've got no plans on making my rig a 4wd.

No longer. :-)
 
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