Have any of you that have wired up the TC lockup circuit had any problems burning out your PCM? I was told today by a so called Performance Specialist that I will soon burn out my PCM if I use this circuit very often. However, at the same time he was trying to sell me a kit by BD for $425 that would lock the TC and provide an exhaust brake at the same time.
Tom

 

I've never heard of this before. Not sure how it would burn out the PCM since all you're doing is completing a ground. I think the worst that happens is it throws a trans code.

I made my own kit though that would lock the TC and provide the exhaust brake at the same time, all while fooling the PCM into thinking it still had control of the TC so no codes and my OD Off light wouldn't flash.

Here's the diagram I drew up of the way mine was wired:

 

I think you hit the nail on the head with his motivation for telling you that.

 

Thanks for your response and circuit diagram. Is there an easy way to get to the two wires on the EBPV solenoid? Looks like I would have to remove the Aluminum Y manifold on the output side of the turbo to get to the wires. I like your circuit. Looks like you really gave it some thought.
Tom

 

You're welcome. I put quite a bit of thought into it several years ago when I was figuring it all out and went through a few pieces of paper drawing out designs before it was something I was happy with. I was very pleased with the results though. It did exactly what I wanted it to. Either switch, when in the up position would activate either the EBPV or TC lock independently. Put the switches are in the down position, and the brakes and TC will lock when you apply the brakes, but both switches must be in the down position for that to work, as a safeguard in case one is accidentally flipped down. With either switch, but only one switch, in the down position, nothing happens at all. The LED's indicate what's going on at a glance. I used green for TC lock (which I didn't realize how much I looked at until I took it out with the conversion), orange for manual EBPV activation, and red for the EBPV brake activation. The DPDT relay is what I wired in to keep the OD light from flashing.

You might be able to get to the EBPV wires without removing anything. I don't recall taking off my intake manifold to get to the wires. but it was so long ago, I may have. I honestly can't remember.

 

click on exhaust brake when it opens up..its a TC lock and exhaust brake in one.you set what speed to lock and unlock with the crues buttons...
http://spdiesel.com/ i have one for a 99 - 00 truck id let go cheap..im deleteing the EBPV and have a low stall tripple disk in my truck..i no longer need that thing..it sells for for 329..i would let it go for 100 plus shipping

 

There are no concerns with the PCM, like mentioned it is just completing a ground.

His motivation for selling you the BD Torque UnLoc was incorrect, what you are wiring up will work but, the advantage the torque loc has (that he forgot to mention) is that it will allow the T/C to unlock by itself at designated speed, you do not have to disengage your lock up manually. It also gives you an unlock feature, they are a fancy lock up switch and sell for only $325.00.

If you want more info on the BD Torque UnLoc, you can view them here.

 

I got both. TC and Exhaust brake wired up. Works super. I supposed if you not careful you could cause damage while wiring it up. Crossing wires can't be good for anything. Driving around with no load i find both useless. I only use it when pulling and it is SWEET.

Nice schematic there Jermemy..

On the EBPV solenoid the metal clips holds it in. Just unclip and pull it out. Then fish it up near the filter housing so you can operate on it. It was close quarters but doable. Didn't remove a thing. I seen somewhere they made a kit that helps you extend the wire with plug on it. But i didn't need that either.

 

Thanks for your input. I got to looking at the plug and solenoid yesterday and it does look like I could disconnect the plug and pull it up and do my splicing, etc. The concern I have now is can I snake the wire back down and plug it back in? I thought if I removed or loosened the innercooler pipe on the drivers side it might make it easier to get to the plug. Again I don't know how easy it is to remove the pipe.
As you probably know by now I am kind of new to working on these diesels but thanks to you all on the forum I am learning a lot. This forum is really a great source of knowledge.
Thanks again.
Tom

 

Thanks for your offer but I think I will try and stay with a manual setup since I already have done a pretty good job wiring up the TC lockup circuit. I do have a question for you and that is, what advantage do you get when you remove the EBPV valve? Is it quicker throttle response, more power or what? Thanks again.
Tom

 

better exhaust flow out the turbo..im gutting mine cause im putting on a 1.00 exhaust housing so my stage 2 injectors wont be so hard my turbo...

 

Getting it out i did all standing on the drivers side. Put it back in i had to move to the passenger side. There is a space you can get your hand under to help guide it back. It is like one of those things. Can see it, But when you stick you hand in, you loose sight of it. Either Hand or eye's.. lol. But not to bad. I felt as you like i might not be able to get in there to plug in. But you should be able to without removing things.

 

By golly I was able to reach that plug, do my surgery on the wires and reinstall the plug. Like you mentioned you really could not see what you were doing and basically had to go by feel. I guess that's not always all bad. Anyway the brake works fine. Thanks again to you and all the others on the forum that gave me info as to how to do this modification.
Tom