91 ford ignition switch??
hi i'm new to this site..i have a 91 ford f150 with a 302. the other morning I tried to start it and the key was loose and just didn't feel right and it wouldn't start..so I replaced the lock cylinder with no difference. I replaced the ignition switch as well and that didn't work. I can start it with the key in on from the sylenoid but it won't shift from park. wondering if anyone has any more idea for me to check??? Thanks, Josh
your ignition actuator is broke. it is a little thing in the steering column that connects the key cylinder to the ignition rod.
it is not that hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined, but it does take between 2 and 5 hours to replace, depending on your ability.
it also works with the shifter lock, so when it breaks, it keeps you from shifting out of park
the part is only around $13 from the dealer, and i have heard some people say it is under $10 at autozone.
it is not that hard to replace if you are mechanically inclined, but it does take between 2 and 5 hours to replace, depending on your ability.
it also works with the shifter lock, so when it breaks, it keeps you from shifting out of park
the part is only around $13 from the dealer, and i have heard some people say it is under $10 at autozone.
you have to really push hard on the switch to overcome the spring and start it.
ignition switches very rarely go bad.
also, the fact you can not shift out of park is a very good indicator that the shifter lock is not moving, which is a common occurrence when the actuator breaks.
ignition switches very rarely go bad.
also, the fact you can not shift out of park is a very good indicator that the shifter lock is not moving, which is a common occurrence when the actuator breaks.
The actuator isn't that hard to change. As long as you have a steering wheel puller, basic hand tools, 4 hours, and some patience. I got the part from my local NAPA. I think it was like $14. Here is a forum I found on another website that has detail description and good pictures to help out. Hope it's helpful.
Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - FSB Forums
Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - FSB Forums
all ya need is a steering wheel puller, basic tools, 4 hours, and some patience. here is a link to a forum that has details and pictures that might help ya:
Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - FSB Forums
Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt - FSB Forums
Trending Topics
you have to really push hard on the switch to overcome the spring and start it.
ignition switches very rarely go bad.
also, the fact you can not shift out of park is a very good indicator that the shifter lock is not moving, which is a common occurrence when the actuator breaks.
ignition switches very rarely go bad.
also, the fact you can not shift out of park is a very good indicator that the shifter lock is not moving, which is a common occurrence when the actuator breaks.
i agree with this too, the ford part is much better, i have had customers compalin the that dorman one is weak to begin with
no, i am not kidding. i have never seen an ignition switch go bad.
and i have had or worked on hundreds of 87-97 ford trucks.
ignition actuator cams are another thing though. i must have replaced at least 200 of them. i can do one in less than 1 hour.
and i have had or worked on hundreds of 87-97 ford trucks.
ignition actuator cams are another thing though. i must have replaced at least 200 of them. i can do one in less than 1 hour.
having a hard time so far...had a hell of a time getting the pin out of the shifter and my friend is helping me and he was hitting it with a hammer and a little punch and I think he broke something in the shifter because now it will shift freely but not actually take it out of park..wondering what I can do to fix that problem now?
Maybe a little late but here is the write-up I did the last time I replaced mine:
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
Steps for Replacing Steering Column Actuator 1987-91
1) Remove steering wheel.
2) Remove the turn signal lever.
3) Remove two-piece plastic column cover that hides column where it meets dash.
4) Drop column down and remove ignition switch. Put column back up but do not tighten bolts.
5) Remove ignition lock cylinder.
6) Remove lock cylinder gear (snap ring pliers required). It is down in the hole that you took the lock cylinder out of.
7) Disconnect turn signal switch harness and then pull turn signal switch out and let it hang by wires.
8) Remove ignition lock cylinder collar (slide it over the turn signal switch).
9) Press actuator and rod towards dash so you can remove the actuator gear (the thing with the gear teeth on it that is linked to the actuator and rod).
10) Remove the snap ring on steering shaft.
11) Remove the little round metal bar (multiple bends in it) and two clips that operates the tilt. PAY ATTENTION HERE - there is a little spring like out of pen that is behind it with a metal cap on it. Remove that so you don’t lose it.
12) Drive the pin out of the tilt lock lever on the underside of the column. There is a spring underneath it with a plastic pad so pull those out too so you don’t lose them.
13) Thread a bolt or screw into the inside threaded pins that hold the tilt together and pull them out. You should put the tilt all the way up before you do this so you unload the spring.
14) Slide the tilt collar towards you on the shaft enough to get the actuator and rod out.
15) Pull the actuator and rod out. Put in vise and drive the little pin out to separate rod and actuator. Reassemble with new actuator. TIP – use a pair of pliers to press the pin back in so you don’t have to hit on it with a hammer.
16) Put a light coat of grease on the slides where the actuator goes and put the assembled actuator and rod back into column.
17) Put a light coat of grease on the swivel where the tilt collar goes and press the pins back in. TIP – You will be fighting the spring to do this so it helps to stick a screw in one side to hold it in place, then line up the other side and put a pin in. Once you have the pin in on one side, replace the screw on the first side with the other pin.
18) Reassemble starting with step #12 and go in reverse. TIP – Put a light coating of grease in the lock cylinder collar where the actuator gear and cylinder gear go.
glad to hear it worked ok. the first time is always the hardest.
my first time was done reading a shop manual as a guide, and it took 6 hours to do because they said to pull the column out of the truck.
the second one i did in-truck, and it took just about 4 hours.
by the time i had 4 done, i was down to under 2 hours.
with all the tricks i know now, i can do one in about 1 hour.
it actually takes me more time finding all the tools and getting everything setup to do it, than it does to do the fix anymore
my first time was done reading a shop manual as a guide, and it took 6 hours to do because they said to pull the column out of the truck.
the second one i did in-truck, and it took just about 4 hours.
by the time i had 4 done, i was down to under 2 hours.
with all the tricks i know now, i can do one in about 1 hour.
it actually takes me more time finding all the tools and getting everything setup to do it, than it does to do the fix anymore
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lascar
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Feb 27, 2015 02:57 PM
4BigGreen
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
32
Jan 26, 2013 09:07 AM
Bandit91
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Mar 12, 2012 11:36 AM
87f150xlt
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Nov 7, 2004 12:35 AM







