Hello,

90 F150 5.0 4x4

All of the sudden today, went to start the truck and the key turns to run and then is just free - no tension on it when I try to turn to start. Truck doesn't start and key does not spring back like it should. When I turn it past run into the start zone all the ignition, etc. comes on and I can start the truck by jumping the solenoid on the fender.

I tried replacing the ignition lock cylinder (with key) and that was easy enouhg but didn't change anything.

I don't know anything about how the insides of the steering column work, so looking for help. Does the ignition switch have a mechanical aspect that could be causing this?

HELP!

Adam

 

Tear the column apart. There is a rod that goes down to the ignition switch. Is this truck an automatic? Ford still had parts for this problem if the column was a automatic column but not if it is a standard. You will see what I am talking about.

 

YES - it is an automatic. Forgot to mention.

Can you give me more details about what I'm looking to replace, what parts I need, and how to do it? Not seeing much in the manuals...

Adam

 

the ignition actuator and the rod that goes to it.

go to ford parts department and they will show you what you need.

 

It's probably the return spring in the switch. If you can start the truck in the run position, then the rod is still moving the switch. You'll have to lower the column a bit to access the switch. There are 2 bolts that hold it on and the switch is adjustable by sliding it on these bolts. You might try grabbing the switch to see if it moves first. If it does then try readjusting it. If it slides all the way down, it will still go into the run position but not reach the start position.

 

Thanks guys.

Sounds like the switch makes the most sense to start with, since the truck will still start, just not by the key. It would be nice if it just slipped and I could readjust.

I'll keep the rod in mind in case all else fails.

Can you offer any tips for changing the switch out or is it pretty straightforward?

Adam

 

Start with the actuator rod. It's a very common problem if you do a little digging in this forum. I had to replace it in my '90. As a temp solution, I was able to remove the broken piece and start the truck with a screwdriver (turn ignition ON, then push on remaining part of actuator at center-top of steering column with screwdriver). The part was about $10-15 at the dealer. It's a cheap pot-metal part.

Jason

 

Ok, well in that case - can you point me to any info on it (diagrams or anything).

Is there any way to tell before taking things apart what the problem actually is?

Thanks,

Adam

 

Take the cover off your steering column (just a few Phillips screws on the bottom). The actuator is about 1/4" square metal bar that runs in a quarter-circle from the ignition switch to the top center of the column then it follows the column under the dash to the starter circuit switch. That quarter-circle portion is notorious for breaking off the straight portion at the top--if bad, it will be all but flopping in the breeze.

It's been a number of years since I did it, so I don't recall the details, but I definitely had to play with the tilt and I remember removing a drift pin or two to get enough room to insert the new part. I think I also had to remove the ignition, too.

Jason

 

I don't think my 90 has a remobvable part of the steering column -- I think it's solid. I don't recall any plastic around it at all. It is tilt though. Seems like this will make it much more difficult.

...or am I forgetting something?

Adam

 

Also - did we decide if there was a way to tell whether it's the rod or the ignition switch? I'd hate to get into one and have it be the other...

Adam

 

There should be 2-3 (I think it's just 2) screws holding on the shroud/cover whatever you want to call it. They're in very deep recesses that you access from the bottom of the steering column. I don't remember if you have to pull the ignition first or not (stick key in, turn part way, push small screwdriver or punch in small hole under ignition switch, then pull ignition switch out).

Jason

 

search ignition actuator cam in the search feature. it is a fairly easy fix. it takes about 3-4 hours. to test if it is the switch or actuator cam, under the dash, on the top of the column, is the switch. it is held to the column with 2 bolts. i think they are 7/16 size. remove the switch. using a small screwdriver to move the slider, see if you can start the truck. ( it will)
this eliminates the switch, and tells you it is the actuator cam.


to replace the cam. you need to remove the steering wheel, blinker switch, key tumbler, and tilt pins.

if you have a factory service manual, it has the breakdown in it to do it fairly easy. the book tells you to remove the column from the truck. i did my first one on the bench, but now do it in-truck.

 

Sounds good. I don't have a factory manual and none of the others I have seem to address is. Time to search the boards!

Thanks guys -- I'll report back with results. Sounds like you guys know your stuff.

Adam

 

If you look near the bottom of the steering column(in my last post is a pic) you will see where the switch is mounted. From the drivers side you can reach under the dash and above the column where the switch is mounted, put you hand on the switch and on the right side going up the coulmn is the rod. Once you have found that, keep your hand there and turn the key start switch and see if the rod moved along column. Also try pulling the switch up the column to see if it moves on the mounting bolts.


Service and Repair

Removal

1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
2. Remove steering column shroud and lower the steering column. Refer to Steering Column: Service and Repair: Removal/Installation .
3. Disconnect the switch wiring at the multiple plug.
4. Remove the two nuts that retain the switch to the steering column.
5. LIFT the switch VERTICALLY UPWARD to disengage the actuator rod from the switch and remove switch.

Installation

1. When installing the ignition switch, both the locking mechanism at the top of the column and the switch itself must be in LOCK position for correct adjustment. To hold the mechanical parts of the column in LOCK position, move the shift lever into PARK (with automatic transmissions) or REVERSE (with manual transmissions), turn the key to LOCK position, and remove the key. New replacement switches, when received, are already pinned in LOCK position by a metal shipping pin inserted in a locking hole on the side of the switch.
2. Engage the actuator rod in the switch. Must be inserted in the slot of the sliding, black carrier.
3. Position the switch on the column and install the retaining nuts, but do not tighten them.
4. Move the switch UP and DOWN along the column to locate the mid-position of rod lash. Tighten the two ignition switch retaining nuts (TOP NUT FIRST to minimize rod binding) to 4.51-7.34 N.m(40-65 in-lb) .
5. Remove the lockpin. Connect the battery cable, and check for proper start in PARK or NEUTRAL. Also, ensure the start circuit cannot be actuated in the DRIVE and REVERSE position and that the engine will shut off in either DRIVE, REVERSE or NEUTRAL. If the engine will not shut off in the above positions then the switch is NOT adjusted properly. The switch will have to be re-adjusted. Refer to Ignition Switch: Adjustments .
6. Raise the steering column into position at instrument panel. Refer to Steering Column: Service and Repair: Removal/Installation .
7. Confirm that accessories are deactivated with ignition switch in OFF position, and that accessories are operable with switch in RUN position.