Removing it entirely does cause the same problems. However thats easily cureable with a tune, such as I have from www.innovativediesel.com

 

allright, just finished the egr cooler,egrvalve, and oil cooler replacement. When I read the manual it stated that if the fuel injection control module was removed i.e. unplugged it woud need to be reprogramed. Took pains not to unplug however the damn thing wont fire. Does it in fact need programmed or whats the deal. silvercrew, you said you did this procedure, anything like that happen with you?

 

I didnt remove the FICM. Didnt need too. I cant possibly imagine that just unplugging it would cause it to need to be reprogrammed.

 

That was my thought too. The fact the estimate had it on it was what led me to think that more than anything. Figured it was a dealer enhancement on what was needed. The manual does give that warning though. I'm outside and its snowing like hell in Denver. Get it tomorrow.

 

I wanted to add an update from my point of view. I have a 05 scurge with an 04 build motor. I unplugged the EGR and got a light. I also have much better response and the EGT dropped by 150 - 200. ( I also have a Juice with Attitude but just use it to monitor) I towed a trailer with 3 dirt bikes, 2 four wheelers, 1 dune buggy and all the crap that goes with it to e tex for the holiday. Going up hill at 70 mph it would down shift and the Juice would give the alert that I have 25 psi telling me that the unplugging of the EGR did NOT disable the VGT. Again, in day to day driving it responds better now.
Story number two. I have a brother inlaw with a 04 scurge, with an 04 build motor. I unplugged his and he took off. He also states that he feels that it is running better. But he did not get a light. I hooked up the scanner and he has not codes.

Just information.

 

Mine was opposite. With it just unplugged it was VERY sluggish and set codes quickly.

 

It doesn't disable the VGT actuator like unplugging the VGT does, it sets the veins to a default position somewhere in the middle. You'll get more boost down low and less on the top end. It makes it seem a little snappier with more boost down low, but at WOT at higher RPMs your EGTs will be higher due to lower boost in that range.

 

It may have set the VGT to no longer adjust, but my EGT is lower. I am prepairing to do a delete but leave the EGR plugged in. (It will open and close just like Al Gore wants but will not flow any bad gas............)

Silver, in your bio is states that you have a full EGR delete? Do you have tunes to take the EGR out of the equation? or is it just plugged in, lowering the combustion temp of the open air?

 

yeah mine is disabled with my innovative tune, so it doesnt function at all.

 

Quik question, maybe two.
I have never taken my turbo off, what did you have to mark with the paint? Second, when you delete the EGR valve assembly, do you just leave its wire harnes hang freely unattached?

 

It was the first time I had it apart so I wasnt sure if it had any alignment "pins" or "marks" etc so I put a few marks on it so I knew I would get it "clocked" right so everything would line back up (ie: the CAC pipe conection) But if I remember correctly there was only one way it would go back so I dint have too after all. Just being safe as I didnt want to have to take it back off because my CAC pipe wouldnt line up with the outlet of the compressor housing.

As for your second question, on my truck it still has the EGR valve intact in its originl position and its still plugged in so it looks stock. Only someone who knew exactly what they were looking for would be able to see that there was no cooler and no EGR flow. However with my tune from Innovative the vavle doesnt function at all, just there for looks.

 

It can go back together clocked wrong if you don't mark it. I used a punch to mark each half since I've had non-permanent marks get wiped off before.

 

Mine couldnt. It had a tang on one part of the turbo (cant remember if it was the housing or center section) and a and a notch that the tang fit into so it could only go one way.

 

Spent Saturday unsuccessfully chasing down a leak in the high pressure oil system. We did, however, have success deleting my EGR cooler.







The hose is from a power steering pump on a ~2000 Dodge Stratus. The bend in the hose was absolutely perfect, the ends just required a little trimming.

Later on I'll replace the exhaust up-pipe with a solid version, but for now the EGR flange in the up-pipe is just welded shut.

Does anybody have a source for part numbers? I'm having a heck of a time trying to find the part number for the kit containing the o-rings, d-rings, and gaskets required for replacing the high pressure oil pump.

 

Great idea! I love too see different peoples different approaches to this. Cant help on the HPOP stuff, havent had to mess with any of that yet.