I really like what you've done, it looks really good. I have a question for you guys...why couldn't you just put your block off plate on the manifold like you did and weld in a block off plate where the other end of the cooler connects to the up pipe? You will then have stopped the exhaust flow and the coolant can still flow through the cooler.

 

Thats very debatable thing around here. IMO no performane increase and very little to NO MPG increase. The simple reason alot of us choose to do this is for two reasons. 1) to reduce the carbon build up in the EGR vavle, intake manifold, combustion chambers turbo etc etc whcih these engines are prone to do. 2) to eliminate the risk of cooler failure and allowing coolant to enter the intake and ultimatley the combustion chamber.

 

You could do this, however if your going that far why not just remove the entire thing? That way you get the scoop out of the up pipe which is a big restriction. Also, have you seent the end of the cooler where it attaches to the intake? It would be difficult to cap that end and still retain the cooler. Better off just to get that POS out of there, loop the coolant lines however you please and be done with it.

By the way, Like your sig about lug nuts, I have the same stiker on my back winder "My Lug Nuts Take More Torque Then Your Import Makes" LOL love it!!!

 

You're right...about while you're in there to remove the cooler but...I have a question.

What would be a good way to delete the cooler like this person has done but not have to remove the up pipe? is there a way to cap the up pipe where it connects to the cooler with out taking it out.

I haven't taken out my up pipe so I don't know how hard it would be.

This is a good thread to save, thanks again for the pics and info 06silvercrew!!

 

Yeah, you could easily make a plate/plug to go on the up pipe if you really didnt want to take it off. I wont lie, its not easy to get off, about the worst part of the entire job. Then again, I was alone, I think a second set of hands would have made things alot easier. However, in my opinion after seeing in person just how big the "scoop" inside the up pipe is, I would do whatever it takes to get it out of there. Its a HUGE restriction.

 

Great Job on the intake.
I know the scoop in the up pipe is HUGE, in fact I could see carbon on the Passenger side heads where the exhaust manifold meets! There was way too much back pressure having the egr valve turned off without removing that blasted scoop!

Here's what I did "DIY scoop delete"

I was looking for that intake manifold block off plate shown just behind the blue anodized fitting, was that also fab'd? or is there a plate that will fit?

 

Oh The plate to block off the intake I made. Just used the gasket as a template and cut it out of .250'' aluminum plate that I had laying around.

 

read your post on the EGR. Looks good and I like the cost thing too. Did you delete it of necessity or for other reasons? How does it affect the emissions testing. I have a 05 Harley edition and just found out the EGR cooler line is cracked. Ford wants 6K which is out of my range beings I was laid off for 4 months. Any advice would sure be welcomed. Im a good wrench but havnt in a while. From what you described it doesnt sound too tough and like you said theres plenty of manuals etc.

 

No I didnt delete it ouf of necessity. I deleted it just to avoid having all the problems that most everyone else seems to have out of the EGR on these 6.0's Plus I had coolant puking problem, and since I did this mod not one drop has puked. It heats up the coolant and boils it and makes it puke. In my state any truck that is either Diesel OR over 8600 lb GVWR doesnt require any emmissions testing. Besides, even if we did, its turned off in the tuner so it would pass without problem. I would say that anyone with just a little more then your basic tools could easily tackle this project. The up-pipe comes off alot easier if you have a friend help you.

 

I have been considering this mod for a bit now that I learned about it. Yet I wonder what I can expect it to help with exactly.

I understand extra flow to the turbo. Yet how much flow and whp?

As well how does this help with the prone head hasket problems? I am concerned about this. As I want a bit more power via a programer but I don't want to risk head gasket problems. As well mpg is a bit of a concern.

Next is there other reason for concern with the head gaskets other then the egr?

thanx

 

I really dont see it gaining much if any WHP, maybe a little with the removal of the scoop in the up-pipe, but nothing huge by any means. Just more efficient if anything. It doesnt eliminate the head gasket problem, but in my eyes it is a help. Yes there still is concern for the headgaskets even with the EGR out of the equasion. The headgaskets themselves are not the problem on the 6.0, its The stock TTY (torque to yeild) bolts that simply stretch and allow the head to "lift" off the block that give the same results as a blown head gasket. Hence the reason that a set of ARP studs along with new stock gaskets make it pretty much bullet proof under normal bolt-on and programming that the most of us do to our daily drivers. I still run the stock TTY bolts on my truck with all the mods in my sig, and knock on wood, havent had any problems yet. And I run a pretty aggressive CUSTOM tune that is probably more aggressive then alot of folks run that have had gasket/bolt problems.

 

Ok cool thanx for the info. Right now I have a banks exhaust and afe intake system with the new elbow. No programer just stock power. So I guess to be on the safe side tear down with arp bolts. Before getting more power?

 

I've been running a 130Hp tune for a while now with no issues. You can get custom tuning done that is considered safe for stock headbolts. Some people have failures with the stock tuning though, so safe is all relative.

 

Thats really your decision and will depend on alot of things, mainly your financial situation LOL Like I said above, im stock and I have a very aggressive tune and have been trouble free. But to me its not a big deal to tear it down and put a set of studs in it when the time comes. The thought of having to do that scares some people to death. If you have either the money to pay someone to do it for you, or are capable of the job yourself go for it.

 

In the other recent thread on this subject 06silvercrew said:


It will do nothing for you. Its going to detect a "low flow" situation and set a DTC.
It uses MAP, BARO and Exhaust pressure to determine the actual flow. Your "tech"
should have known this.


How does disabling it cause these problems but removing it entirely does not?