self adjusting lock nut on spindle
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Houston
self adjusting lock nut on spindle
89 bronco manual locking hubs. I have replaced my spindle and barings. Every time I drive, my self adjusting lock nut backs off and I have to retighten every day. Am I missing something? All I have pressing against my outer bearing is the self adjusting nut that is too parts that have teeth. Should their be another nut or something?
Please help.
Paul
Please help.
Paul
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 19,402
Likes: 38
From: Bonita Springs FL
89 bronco manual locking hubs. I have replaced my spindle and barings. Every time I drive, my self adjusting lock nut backs off and I have to retighten every day. Am I missing something? All I have pressing against my outer bearing is the self adjusting nut that is too parts that have teeth. Should their be another nut or something?
Please help.
Paul
Please help.
Paul
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
There should be the inner spindle nut, the steel bushing with the holes that aligns on the pin once the bearing pre-load torque is set (which I've always set by feel). Then the outer nut is installed to its torque spec. which is rather hefty as I recall. I'm not aware of any differences in the D44 hub assembly other than the 3-bolt and 5-bolt hub mountings that are outboard of the spindle and bearing assembly.
If the inner nut and lock ring assembly is missing, there is no way to keep the outer nut from walking off the end of the spindle.
Someone correct me if there was some other method of retaining the outer wheel bearing that I am forgetting here.
If the inner nut and lock ring assembly is missing, there is no way to keep the outer nut from walking off the end of the spindle.
Someone correct me if there was some other method of retaining the outer wheel bearing that I am forgetting here.
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Elder User
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From: Houston
According to my Hannes. the two inner and outer lock nuts go on automatic locking Hubs. It says the manual locking hubs Have only the the self adgusting nut and it only. I think I will see if I can get another one.
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From: Helena, MT
my 83 has manual hubs, of course they are warn hubs now but still it came with manual hubs. anyway, it has a nut against the outer bearing, a washer with holes, and an outer lock nut I am not aware of any other set up in a d44 ttb.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Ok, same as I thought... there is no way to physically stop the bearing nut from "unwinding" down the spindle without the locknut as well. The reason for the pin and sleeve washers is to keep the inner nut from backing out IF the outer lock nut does lose its torque. The effect of the inner nut backing out far enough to let the wheel hub drop off the bearing and onto the spindle would be something close to catastrophic at highway speeds.
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Posting Guru
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I've had both designs. It is a single nut with a spring and teeth on it. It is a bad design. You have to understand how it locks to get it to work at all. I suspect that you dont if you are tighting it every day. The teeth must be pressed in and the nut turned further to get it tight enough. Than it can only back off one tooth. This is very difficult to explane. All I can say is the old design is better and I recomend going to NAPA or equalvalent and getting the two nut design.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
Yes, there were two VERY different types of spindle locknuts used. Both my trucks came with manual locking hubs from the factory and both have the ratcheting single-nut design. An '86 Bronco I had a few years ago had the two-nut design, which is far better IMO.
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Elder User
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From: Houston
Thanks
Thank you all for your input. I don't see how understanding how the single self locking nut will help me. I have changed my bearing quite often and have never had a problem like this. I mean all you do is put it on and tightenit up. I can feel the teeth clicking as it gets tighter and eventuallly gets to a point where you cant tighten it anymore. At this point my hub is so tight I can bearly turn it. So I back it off just a click or two.
I have ordered a new. one. I will admitt that the reason I changed my spindle was because the bearing got so hot it welded my race to the spindle. When I took the tires off the bearing fell out like little deformed pebbles. So I believe the self locking nut is probably damaged as well, since it did come a part. One of you mentioned a spring, well their is no spring in side the self locking nut. I had to order the self locking nut, so I am going to put new races, bearings and self locking nut. That should get her done. I will post my results.
I have ordered a new. one. I will admitt that the reason I changed my spindle was because the bearing got so hot it welded my race to the spindle. When I took the tires off the bearing fell out like little deformed pebbles. So I believe the self locking nut is probably damaged as well, since it did come a part. One of you mentioned a spring, well their is no spring in side the self locking nut. I had to order the self locking nut, so I am going to put new races, bearings and self locking nut. That should get her done. I will post my results.
Posting Guru
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After you tighten it (single nut), you can push the teeth in with a screw driver and it will go a little further. If you just tighten it till it wont go, I have not had the experince that the hub wont turn. There may be some other issue here. I have never had to back up a couple clicks. It backs up one click by it self, and that is useally too much! I hope the new one solves the problem, But I would have just got the other design.
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From: Houston
UpDate. I bought the two locking nuts with the washer that has holes. I torqued the first one to 50lbs, I torqued the second one to 150lbs. the wheel spun great! I drove it for two days and then jacked her up an the tire wiggled again. Ok it was time to quit tightening it and pull it all the way off and replace everything. When I pulled the hub off and begain to remove the race's the outer race just fell out at first tap! Ok problem solved. I need a new hub. I cleaned it up and I could see with the naked eye how wallared out the hub was where the race is to be. So here i am tighning the nuts down making everything snug to which the will seems good, once she is on the ground that nut don't back off, the race begins spining and and grinding hub metal and the next thing you know its all lose.
I found the perfect tool for removing races. If you have purchased the the long forked tool for removing tie rod ends, this tool works great for removing races. You would not believe the leverage it gives you and the fork fits right on the races edge. much better than a punch.
I found the perfect tool for removing races. If you have purchased the the long forked tool for removing tie rod ends, this tool works great for removing races. You would not believe the leverage it gives you and the fork fits right on the races edge. much better than a punch.
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I got a video on Utube showing the wheel bearning nuts.
YouTube - Caliper bolt replacement PART 2
YouTube - Caliper bolt replacement PART 2
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