self-adjusters
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: Chicago
self-adjusters
Just did rear brakes/drums on my '99 E-150. As usual I install all new parts including new self-adjuster kits. Have been doing this for years but have always had trouble with the brakes not self-adjusting. After a week or two of driving, I always have to expand the shoes out manually.
I know they are installed correctly as per my Haynes manual. I do grease the ends of the adjusters sparingly of course. Was wondering if there is something I am missing. Also is it true they only self-adjust when vehicle is backing up. Thanks
I know they are installed correctly as per my Haynes manual. I do grease the ends of the adjusters sparingly of course. Was wondering if there is something I am missing. Also is it true they only self-adjust when vehicle is backing up. Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2014
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they only adjust in reverse. grease the threaded part as well. theyonly move one tooth at a time so it can take a while to self-adjust. i crank them until the drum will not go on, then back them off 1-2 turns. then install the drum and tighten them up until drag is felt. then back it off 2 teeth. they usually self adjust in a day or so.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
They will only self adjust in reverse, assuming the adjusters are installed correctly to begin with, and aren't corroded. There are right side and left side adjusters, and can be mixed up! (They are only supposed to adjust when when backing up!)
The initial manual adjustment of the shoes, they must have some pretty good drag or they will never self adjust. Ever. They won't brake very well either. When backing up, the secondary shoe is pulled down and away from the anchor pin, this also pulls the adjusting lever up and sets up for "one click" down of the star wheel adjuster, once the shoe shifts direction.
It's tempting to have "no drag" when spinning a wheel but this affects pedal height and effective braking as well the self adjusters. The shoes will wear in to a close fit after a few miles anyway.
The initial manual adjustment of the shoes, they must have some pretty good drag or they will never self adjust. Ever. They won't brake very well either. When backing up, the secondary shoe is pulled down and away from the anchor pin, this also pulls the adjusting lever up and sets up for "one click" down of the star wheel adjuster, once the shoe shifts direction.
It's tempting to have "no drag" when spinning a wheel but this affects pedal height and effective braking as well the self adjusters. The shoes will wear in to a close fit after a few miles anyway.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The shoes last a long time that way, heh. If the shoes are too far out, the pedal will be real low too.
One trick that works pretty good, is one that some brake shops use. They have to get it right the first time one way or another, because nobody hardly wants to come back for seconds or check or readjust themselves.
Set the parking brake about halfway, not reefed down hard, but take all the slack out firmly so shoes are seated on drums. Then turn the adjuster on each axle till it stops. Release parking brake. Check wheel spin, should be close to "light drag".
One trick that works pretty good, is one that some brake shops use. They have to get it right the first time one way or another, because nobody hardly wants to come back for seconds or check or readjust themselves.
Set the parking brake about halfway, not reefed down hard, but take all the slack out firmly so shoes are seated on drums. Then turn the adjuster on each axle till it stops. Release parking brake. Check wheel spin, should be close to "light drag".
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