I have about 1/4 wheel turn before my truck turns. I have replaced the tie rods. I do not have a stablizer. What can I do to fix or help me get better control of my steering?

Country Cowboy "97" F350 4X4 powerstroke 7.3L Crewcab Longbed 4" lift w/35"

 

Did the slop appear after you put the larger tires on? If so, a possible explanation is that a taller tire creates a slower reaction to steering input. Has something to do with 'perceived effect'. Maybe someone else is an engineer and can explain it better, so that it doesn't look like I'm making this up. I read this recently and will try to remember where so that I can pass information on.
(or maybe I'm talkin' out my butt....I dunno fer sure, just trying to help)

 

Bought the truck this way. I would think there is a way to make my driving a little safer at speeds over 30.



Country Cowboy "97" F350 4X4 powerstroke 7.3L Crewcab Longbed 4" lift w/35"

 

Just fixed this on my 83 F-250. The problem was 3-fold for me, but I can now drive on the highway.

First, the kingpins were bad and had to be replaced, along with most of the frontend IFS. Hopefully this isn't your problem (I now have spindles, i-beams, raidus arms, springs, and brake rotors from an 86 F250). The bad frontend parts had torn my gearbox gears up. I opted to get a rebuilt unit from Ford (about $280, for power steering incl core rebate) which I installed along with the frontend parts.

This made it better, but not enough!

The last thing I had to do was replace the coupling shaft between the steering column and the gearbox. It contains a flexable coupling to the gearbox (mine was covered by a plastic shield) and a U-joint. The flex coupling was split at the metal and flexing when the steering wheel was turned (in addition to the gearbox problems). The U-joint was covered by a boot, but the boot had split. I replaced it with a new Ford part for about $140. The new unit had a internally sealed U-joint (no boot) and a heavier looking flex coupling. The play in my steering is down to 1-3 degrees.

I think there is a screw on the steering gearbox that can be used to advance the gears closer together, but I forgot the procedure for making sure it's tight (screw it all the way down, then back a half turn or something). If someone knows this, please post it.

Before you do all this, make sure your steering wheel isn't loose. You should be able to see your steering coupling shaft and turn the wheel through the triangle window at the same time if you don't have a high-riding truck

 

You know, Advance Auto has these things for about 1/4 of the price, and the online store is probably about the same. I had a wicked wander problem in mine, and just put in the flex coupling. I had to cut out the old rivets, and use grade 8 3/8" bolts for peace of mind. That took car of the wander for good- now it just pulls.

Jared

 

Thanks for the info. So far the gear box looks a little loose and the shaft going from steering wheel to gear box slides a lot. Going to try in tighten things up. But so far what is said may help out a lot. Thanks for the help.


Country Cowboy "97" F350 4X4 powerstroke 7.3L Crewcab Longbed 4" lift w/35" :+

 

I have this problem too on my '84 F-150 and have narrowed it to the shaft. The flex coupling is a little loose and the flex joints instead of regular universal joints are rubber mounted. Whats with that?? Are there any places that sell the shaft assemblys with u joints instead that will fit on my '84??

Thanks

 

The flex coupling is a little loose and the
>flex joints instead of regular universal joints are rubber
>mounted. Whats with that??

It's to eliminate vibration in the colum. I'm not so sure they produce a UJ for a stock application, but they may. We use solid shafts and universials on all are racing apps. More positve feel in the wheel.

 

Yes that looks great but the only one I could find was a Borgeson and that is $219!!!!! I though that was a little much. Does anyone know of one for less??

 

Does anyone even know if i can get one from somewhere other than ford??

Thanks

 

I took a u-joint for a PTO shaft and welded it into my steering shaft. The PTO joint is an exact fit for the shaft. I also eliminated the lower flex coupler and welded the shaft directly to the gear box coupler. I did it because teh body lift putd too much stress on the coupler without the u-joint. You can see the PTO shaft weld in my gallery.
Mike