Radiator Question
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eastern Shore of Va
Radiator Question
Need to replace the radiator on my 87 F250 351 (pinhole leak in the plastic). It had factory A/C so it has the thicker radiator. The A/C has been removed and I don't really use the truck for any heavy hauling or towing, so can I replace with the non heavy duty (no A/C) radiator and save $30?
...ED
...ED
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 1,996
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From: Pittsburgh,Pa.
You might want to check the size dimensions on both rads. Sometimes thicker rads use different brackets. I installed a heavier rad in my 96 when I added a/c and it was a bolt in. I'm not sure about the older trucks.
Der Postmeister
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,859
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From: Long Beach, Calimexiforia
If you mean depth of the core & fins, which would result in less thermal transfer surface area & reduction fluid capacity. I wouldn't, if I was planning to keep it a while. The extended life & reliability will eventually make up for the $30 + interest. It's just a little hard to determine exactly when that moment is occurring, because instead of being broke down on the side of the road, your still driving.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 390
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From: South East Alabama
If you mean depth of the core & fins, which would result in less thermal transfer surface area & reduction fluid capacity. I wouldn't, if I was planning to keep it a while. The extended life & reliability will eventually make up for the $30 + interest. It's just a little hard to determine exactly when that moment is occurring, because instead of being broke down on the side of the road, your still driving.
I would never decrease the capabilities of a nice F250. Usually when a part is replaced, the replacement should be as good or better than the original. I feel that is money well spent. (A toasted tranny rebuild can be $2000 easy, ouch!).
One more thing. Shop around for a good rad. I think you can get all metal ones at modine without the plastic parts. The plastic ends tend to seep at the crimp seal. (POS design I think) If your trying to stick to a budget the plastic might be a dab cheaper but shop and compare to be sure.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Plastic is cheaper.
I made that mistake once, replaced it less than 2 years later. (but of course after the 1 yr. warranty was up)
BTW, I had a cracked header at the hose junction, not a leaky crimp.
At least with metal they can solder it up.
I too wouldn't try and save money on something so important.
Overheating can cost a LOT more than the $30 you just saved on a cheap radiator.
jm2c...
I made that mistake once, replaced it less than 2 years later. (but of course after the 1 yr. warranty was up)
BTW, I had a cracked header at the hose junction, not a leaky crimp.
At least with metal they can solder it up.
I too wouldn't try and save money on something so important.
Overheating can cost a LOT more than the $30 you just saved on a cheap radiator.
jm2c...
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New User
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11
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From: Eastern Shore of Va
Thank you all! I took the advice and got the heavy duty radiator and new lower hose (old one was rubbing the steering box).
R&R today along with thermostat, and no leaks, runs in first 1/3 of stock gauge.
Got it at AZ, and got a 25% discount (not exactly sure why), so I saved the extra money anyway!!!
Thanks again.
...ED
R&R today along with thermostat, and no leaks, runs in first 1/3 of stock gauge.
Got it at AZ, and got a 25% discount (not exactly sure why), so I saved the extra money anyway!!!
Thanks again.
...ED
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