Well recently had a new clutch put in and yesterday I was at a light and a little ricer wanted to race so being a male I decided I would stomp the little car into the ground. It started out great but when I went to shift into second gear the cluth pedel sucked to the floor. I though it was a fluke but later at my house I tried to reproduce the incidnet and when I rev the engine up and push in the cluth pedel about half way it pulls it to the floor and when the engine RPM's drop the pedel returns to normal. I am not sure what causes this or if this is normal, any help or informaion would be great. Tahnks Brandon

 

Clutch hydraulics. They seem to fail shortly after you replace the clutch. It doesn't make sense, but it just seems to happen.

You can buy a new slave cylinder (or possibly master) from Ford, or do what I did and buy the whole pre-bled master/slave cylinder assembly and just replace it. You'll need a screwdriver, a pair of channel locks, and about 30 min. of your time if you decide to replace the entire hydraulics.

 

Remove the clutch pedal helper spring from the pedal assembly. It will increase your pedal effort by a small percentage, but will remove that annoying problem.
After that you need to go to the hardware store and get a spring that will help pull the pedal back up to the fully up position. It only needs to be just strong enough to pull the pedal fully up. The smallest screen door spring you can buy comes to mind.

 

My clutch did exactly what yours did, started off every once and a while it would stick to the floor. Then on the way to work one day it did it again and I had to get towed to the house and fixed it just like Chris mentioned.

 

I just purchased the above mentioned hydraulics and plan on installing next weekend. 99-00 have weaker clutch fork and I'm upgrading that part and some others: UPDATED CLUTCH FORK YC3Z7515BB, FORK PIVOT F81Z7B602AA, HYDRAULIC ASSEMBLY 2C3Z7C522E. I highly suggest atleast checking out your hydraulics.

I got all the above from FTEPARTSGUY (a sponsor here). His name is Ed and very helpful. BTW, I got all the above shipped for less than the hydraulic assembly alone priced from local dealer.

 

I AM THE KING!

Thanks for the props Derek.


Ed

 

Thanks guys I will look into it, now if I go replceing the cluth fork and clutch pivot will I have to remove the the transmission. Are there any other normal sysmtoms of a matercylinder or slave cylinder going bad. Just checking I think I will end op just replacing the whole thing like F350-6 did but I will also look into the possibility of replaceing the weaker parts with stronger ones. Thanks guys I will keep you posted and let you know what happens.

 

You would have to remove the transmission to change the fork and the pivot.

If your hydraulics are bad I would try replacing them first and see how it runs. I wouldn't drop the trans Unless you know you had a bad clutch fork. the pivot is only added insurance and I haven't heard them fail as often as the fork.

If you keep the truck long enough to see another clutch then upgrade the fork.