Radius arm bushings
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 223
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From: Rexburg,Id
Radius arm bushings
Hey guys! Need some opinions on the easiest way to change the radius arm bushings on a 66 F100 2wd.Looks to me like unbolting the arms from the I-beam is the way to go; but, since I have never done it, just wondered if I'd be opening a can of worms. Wish I'd done this while I had the front clip off!
Thanks, Brett
Thanks, Brett
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
From: garden valley, ca
thats pretty much what needs to be done. i did the same thing when i did my disk conversion. had to take the bolt out of i-beam and slide it forward. c ant remeber if i had to remove shock or not, but that should be obvious when you do it.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 4,375
Likes: 5
From: seattle
unbolt the I beam @ frame, undo the shock at bottom, unbolt the I Beam/radius arm bolt and tap it out...use some rust penetrant as they can be stiff from rust formation...its a tight fitting bolt...carefully raise the truck at the frame and put on a stand and then slide/pry the I Beam out of the frame pocket and roll the assembly out forward a couple of inches and slide the bushings off...wire brush the radius rod before putting new bushing on...and if the radius rod isnt being replaced you dont need to muck with the I Beam to radius rod bolt...this unit is a heavy piece...I recomend getting a helper...also when undoing the radius rod nut make sure the cotter key is totally removed as they usually fall apart from tugging and so on...and wire brush the nut/threaded area and blast also with a rust penetrant before undoing the nut...crack it loose a wee bit, blast again with the rust penetrant as this will flush more of the dirt away out of the threads and thus make nut removal easier.
This sounds like alot, but it really is a straight forward job and is easily done in an afternoons time.
- cs65
This sounds like alot, but it really is a straight forward job and is easily done in an afternoons time.
- cs65
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 2,084
Likes: 94
From: Stanton, Michigan, USA
Or, you can try doing what I did with my '65 F100 2WD:
Rather than pulling apart the I-beam fasteners, you can remove the cutter pin & retaining nut, then grind off the rivets that hold the radius arm carrier to the frame. This allows the carrier bracket to drop down and you can simply remove the bushings & clean everything up, slip on the new bushings and push the carrier bracket back up into place on the frame and bolt it back solid with new grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets.
It went and still goes right down the road straight & true.....
BarnieTrk
Rather than pulling apart the I-beam fasteners, you can remove the cutter pin & retaining nut, then grind off the rivets that hold the radius arm carrier to the frame. This allows the carrier bracket to drop down and you can simply remove the bushings & clean everything up, slip on the new bushings and push the carrier bracket back up into place on the frame and bolt it back solid with new grade 8 bolts to replace the rivets.
It went and still goes right down the road straight & true.....
BarnieTrk
Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: 83 mile house bc.
bushing remove best way
i second that method on remove factory RADIUS ARM 'rivets' re bolts grade #8 steal /saves doing front spring /shock+bolt screw around >save that for when your doing a "king pin"
removal arn't they fun heating them up red hot
some can be welded in there /some just fall out 
and some just leave in forever
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 359
Likes: 0
From: garden valley, ca
its not that bad of a job, if your going to do it you may consider doing the disk brake conversion. i think i did my 65 for around $150 and it was money well spent.
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Junior User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
From: 83 mile house bc.
disk brake conversion ? i thought we were on RADIUS ARM bushing REMOVAL 
BUT ANY HOOT /that disk conv. is a added touch worth considering to re fab the whole front end its age can warrant a complete overhaul if you have the $ and willing to take it on >ME i would get a 78-79 total frame and running gear and put my cab on it i did it rather than piece aged consistently repairing parts iv'e done a few resto's in my 62 yrs. 41 as mechanic and found nothing beats the appropriately planed project commonsense with a realistic approach that pans out [proofs in the pudding]
BUT ANY HOOT /that disk conv. is a added touch worth considering to re fab the whole front end its age can warrant a complete overhaul if you have the $ and willing to take it on >ME i would get a 78-79 total frame and running gear and put my cab on it i did it rather than piece aged consistently repairing parts iv'e done a few resto's in my 62 yrs. 41 as mechanic and found nothing beats the appropriately planed project commonsense with a realistic approach that pans out [proofs in the pudding]
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