<TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top>I have the engine out of the truck awaiting installation of a remanufactured unit. Would like to add the Sonnax boost valve ( Sonnax Transmission, Torque Converter, Performance, Driveline Parts :: :: 36424-01K :: Part Summary ) to hopefully address the issue I have with delayed reverse. The front pump has to come off to install this valve. Looking for some advice on what to expect when removing the front pump. Is this a straight forward procedure or will a bunch of parts fall out of the front of the transmission that I won't be able to put back in? I have the factory manual and it only addresses removal of the front pump witht he transmission out fo the truck. It looks pretty straight forward in the manual, but again, that's assuming the transmission is out of the truck and on a stand with the converter housing facing up. I'm ordering everything from transmissionpartsusa.com and will include a new pump to housing gasket, pump to housing o-ring, and pump bolt sealing washers. Do I need any additional parts for the removal and reinstallation? Your help is appreciated.

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Anyone have experience removing the front pump on an E4OD that can give me some pointers?

 

I would remove the trans out of the truck and stand it up or laying upside down. This thing is too big to fight with it under a truck.

You will have to pull the pan and remove the filter, and then take the pump bolts out. The pump can be a bit tricky to remove with out the proper pump puller.

I have had good success by pulling the input shaft about halfway out and tapping it from side to side with a mallet and pull the pump stator up at the same time.

Do not pry the pump out from inside the case where the filter was, you will break the case and you will be done.

The coast clutch drum sits behind the pump and it is possible it could move too far and drop a clutch. You can spin the drum and see if it feels smooth or you can install the pump with out the pump oring and check if it is seated to the gasket. Never pull this pump down with the bolts, you should be able to push it all the way down by hand. If it sits on the gasket everything is down and you can reinstall the pump with the oring.

The washers on the pump bolts can be a pain to remove, I have to hold the washers with a pair of pliers and crush it to the bolt then spin the bolt to unthread it out of the washer.

 

Thanks for the helpful info. The engine is out of the truck, so I have easy access to the front of the transmission. Can it be done this way?

 

It could be done that way but I wouldn't want to, I was just thinking that its all ready half way out.

Remember you will have to pull the pan and remove the filter so you will have to find another way other than the floor jack to support it. I would have it tilted as far up as I could to keep the coast clutch from moving forward when you work the pump out.

good luck

 

Thanks again for the info. I've got the front of the transmission supported by bolts through the bell housing into the 2x4. My plan is to remove the pan, pull the filter and accumulator valve body (installing partial sonnax sure cure kit), then temp install the pan. Then I'll support the transmission with a floor jack and remove the 2x4 to work on the pump. I'll remove the transmission mount so I can jack up the transmission to the firewall to hopefully prevent the coast clutch from working out with the pump. Keeping my fingers crossed.

 

You would be much better off removing the transmission and standing it upright.

 

Yeap, gotta stand it upright and while you are at it go with the accumulator valve body parts Sonnax offers for this tranny. I just did mine and it shifts great. Only problem I have now is it intermittently shift from 2 to 4 under hard accel. I am looking for a solenoid pack now and gonna add a couple shims to the 3-4 shift valve. Lots of luck!
Larry

 

I have the front pump out of my trans and am preparing to install a Sonnax boost valve and sleeve kit as well as a Sonnax line to lube pressure regulator vavle. However, the instructions for the line to lube pressure regulator valve say "if a line to lube orifice has been drilled into the pump casting wall, it must be plugged." The pump halves must be split to see if this orifice is present, but I don't want to split the pump because I don't have the band clamp to put it back together. My question is, would this orifice be drilled at the factory or is this an aftermaket rebuild modification? If I know that the factory would not do this modification, then there's no need for me to split the pump and plug the hole. Thanks for the help.

 

I would suggest splitting the pump even if you have to buy the tool . Cal Sonnax and ask for Rick Willson(800) 843-2600 or (802) 463-9722. Sorry you would have to wait till Monday but that is a lot of work to not get it done right.! My best educated guess would be it is Not drilled. Are you installing the Sonnax front lube drainback valve? They also have oversize pump gears. ?
These guys are fast with delivery I ordered some parts form them the other day. http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/Default.asp
Also try here for tools or parts http://www.otsparts.com/

 

I have used a timing belt turned inside out, or a old band saw blade to line the pump half's up, no need to buy anything. Just as long as it wraps the pump and has a flat surface to keep the pump halfs lined up it will work. Make sure you do this with the oring off and dont forget to line the bolt holes the best you can.

I doubt the pump has had that modification.

 

Thanks again for the info/tips. I split the pump and the modification had not been done. I re-assembled the pump halves with a ratcheting tie strap. I installed the Sonnax line-to-lube pressure regulator valve, boost valve and sleeve kit, the front lube/converter drainback valve, and viton pump seal. I also installed the .372 line pressure modulator valve, and the accumulator control valve kit with two shims in the 1-2 and 2-3 valve, and one shim in the 3-4 valve.

I did everything with the trans in the truck. Pulled the pump with a slide hammer from Harbor Freight that threaded directly into the pump body. From what I can tell, the coast clutch stayed put. I installed the pump without the o-ring to make sure, and it seated to the gasket mating surface with very little effort. I rotated the coast clutch and there was not binding that I could tell. When re-installing the pump with the new o-ring installed, it was pretty tight. I tried to push it in by hand, but didn't have much leverage given the position of the trans so I couldn't get it to seat by hand. I sat on the cross member and used the foot wedge to seat the pump and it slid right in. Afterwards, I rotated the trans with the input shaft and still doesn't seem to be binding.

It will be a few more weeks before I get the motor reinstalled and the tuck back on the road. Guess I'll find out then if pulling the pump with the trans horizontal was a success. I'll let you know either way.

Thanks for all the help with this project.

 

Sounds like you got it!
I wish I had shimmed my 3-4 shift. I didn't shim any of them cause I used the .427 line pressure modulator valve. I still have a intermittent problem with my shift solenoids so I am gonna add two shims to 3-4 when I replace the solenoid pack.

 

Got the motor back in the truck. All the trans mods were successful. The delayed reverse is gone...it's very smooth now. However, the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts are a little firm for my taste with the two shims. I'll probably pull one shim from each the next time I service the trans. Other than that, i'm very happy with the modifications. Thanks for all the help!!