Exploding used Rack and pinion
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Exploding used Rack and pinion
Recently I purchased a used rack and pinion for my 92 Aero from the junkyard. Last night had it installed, after driving it for 20 miles had no problem.
Went to the supermarket and left the steering wheel locked with tension.
When I returned there was a big puddle of trans fluid all over the pavement.
Drivers side booth was leaking badly.
Filled up Power steering reservoir and drove back home with a very bad leak from the booth.
Is my rack toast?
Or is a vent hole plugged?
Or did we invert a line when installing used rack?
Appreciate the help.
Went to the supermarket and left the steering wheel locked with tension.
When I returned there was a big puddle of trans fluid all over the pavement.
Drivers side booth was leaking badly.
Filled up Power steering reservoir and drove back home with a very bad leak from the booth.
Is my rack toast?
Or is a vent hole plugged?
Or did we invert a line when installing used rack?
Appreciate the help.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
I think the fittings for the PS fluid lines have different sized tube nuts, so there is no way for you to connect them to the wrong ports. Even if that were possible, you would have felt it as soon as you tried to turn the wheel.
It's most likely that the rack had a leak on the driver's side rack end. When the leak fills up the boot, it just squirts out. There should be a tube that connects the boots on both sides for "venting", but even if it was plugged, that would not generate enough pressure to force fluid out.
Can you get a refund or replacement for the one you got?
It's most likely that the rack had a leak on the driver's side rack end. When the leak fills up the boot, it just squirts out. There should be a tube that connects the boots on both sides for "venting", but even if it was plugged, that would not generate enough pressure to force fluid out.
Can you get a refund or replacement for the one you got?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
anything with oil seals such as a PS rack and pinion are DOA from a junke yard emporium.
after they have set a few months dry of lube and unused the seals dry out, shrink and crack. throw in PS pumps, engine mains seals, transmission seals, axle seals.
new part seals are coated and protected by a light film of special grease.
new rack time
don't run the pump low on fluid or it will be new pump time also
after they have set a few months dry of lube and unused the seals dry out, shrink and crack. throw in PS pumps, engine mains seals, transmission seals, axle seals.
new part seals are coated and protected by a light film of special grease.
new rack time
don't run the pump low on fluid or it will be new pump time also
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 7,016
Likes: 208
From: SoCal
Pablo, can you share with us how to replace the seals?
Those replacing the R&P shoud carefully re-install the boots on each end. The rack ends can be easily damaged by dirt getting on them, which is the usual cause of seal leakge.
Those replacing the R&P shoud carefully re-install the boots on each end. The rack ends can be easily damaged by dirt getting on them, which is the usual cause of seal leakge.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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True, learned my lesson the hard way.
Will go to Autozone and get the 69 Dollar replacement.
I see the DIY Kit still needs the boots.
Is there a link that shows you how to disassemble a Ford rack?
Maybe I can still save some money after all.
Pablo, I would appreciate your comments on those 2 seals
Will go to Autozone and get the 69 Dollar replacement.
I see the DIY Kit still needs the boots.
Is there a link that shows you how to disassemble a Ford rack?
Maybe I can still save some money after all.
Pablo, I would appreciate your comments on those 2 seals
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
Likes: 0
From: Kiev, Ukraine
There is a seal deep inside. You need a thin, long and hard stick to nock it out and it is so easy to damage surface inside. If this seal is bad fluid goes in pinion area and back to reservouar. It is internal leak... More difficult to turn steering wheel right when engine is hot and engine speed is low (idling). Try to remove right ore left boot and you can see there is fluid there. If it is really much fuel there, it is time to rebuild r'n'p. Workshops usualy replace upper inp. shaft seal. And that is all .... but I advice you to resurface and polish input shaft.
The othre bad seal is lower pinion seal.... may leak inside boot too.
Why I did my rack? There is no $69 replacement available here for Aerostar. There are Transit vans, Windstars (and Kia Carnivals - made in Korea Windstar clone), Rangers/Rxplorers, Scorpios, Mondeo/Contours..... So I can get rebuilt in Mexico unit only.... Usually Cordone. + some $$ for shipping.
So I'd try $69 replacment....
The othre bad seal is lower pinion seal.... may leak inside boot too.
Why I did my rack? There is no $69 replacement available here for Aerostar. There are Transit vans, Windstars (and Kia Carnivals - made in Korea Windstar clone), Rangers/Rxplorers, Scorpios, Mondeo/Contours..... So I can get rebuilt in Mexico unit only.... Usually Cordone. + some $$ for shipping.
So I'd try $69 replacment....
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Junior User
Joined: Nov 2005
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Finally gave up on paying someone else and got it fixed myself.
First I jacked up the car and supported it on jackstands, removed front tires and took out the battery, then the plastic cover and antifreeze/washer bottles. That saved me at least a couple hours worth of contorsionism, easily removed Power steering pressure lines with a wrench from the top, took out the steering terminals by hitting them on the sides with a heavy hammer, then 2 long bolts, didn't know these had a nut in back. Took out the steering link bolt and came out easy.
Didn't cost me $69, actually rebuilding it was about $900 pesos (90 bucks, and they did it in 2 hours), plus 150 pesos for alignment. total cost about $115 Dllrs. Not too bad for Mexican Aerostar.
After that, went to the local market and purchased a nice cold 6 pack of Sol Cerveza to celebrate the beast's return
Thanks to all who helped me fix this problem.
First I jacked up the car and supported it on jackstands, removed front tires and took out the battery, then the plastic cover and antifreeze/washer bottles. That saved me at least a couple hours worth of contorsionism, easily removed Power steering pressure lines with a wrench from the top, took out the steering terminals by hitting them on the sides with a heavy hammer, then 2 long bolts, didn't know these had a nut in back. Took out the steering link bolt and came out easy.
Didn't cost me $69, actually rebuilding it was about $900 pesos (90 bucks, and they did it in 2 hours), plus 150 pesos for alignment. total cost about $115 Dllrs. Not too bad for Mexican Aerostar.
After that, went to the local market and purchased a nice cold 6 pack of Sol Cerveza to celebrate the beast's return
Thanks to all who helped me fix this problem.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
wow! newer been to Mexico.... well, many years ago I had a trip to Spane. It was a time when Euro were not there. Near French border, in Gerona, I asked in bank that I want to change dollars to pesos.... I was not understood, they ask me do I want to fly to Mexico. I asked no! They toldme that they have PESETAS, Pesos are in Mexico.... Really funny story....
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