my clutch is grabbinng all the at the top . looked on the transmission but dont see a bleeder on it. the guy i bought the truck from said he put a new clutch in it and had the flywheel cut so it just a adjustment i need..truck is a 91 f-150 5 speed...thanks guys

 

There is no adjustment on the hydraulic clutch.

 

great...so now what do i do? theres like no clutch there just about grabs at the end..

 

the only way to adjust a 1991 zf 5 SPEED IS TO CHANGE THE ROD FROM THE CLUTCH PEDAL TO THE HYDRAULIC UNIT ON the firewall.. pAIN IN THE *** BUT CAN BE DONE.

 

Change It With A New One Or Make One?

 

there are longer ones and shorter ones available...I'll try to find out all the details for you. Putting a longfer rod in increases the amount of fluid getting to the slave and vice-versa.

 

You likely have play in the linkage, air in the system, a weak firewall, or some combination of the three....

 

of which a longer push rod can fix 2w out of 3.

 

THERES a plastic bushing in the end of the rod that connects to the pedal.looks kind of sloppy if this is worn and gives the pedal play by changing it for a new one will this help abit? were do i get that bushing? whats the name of it? thanks

 

If the master cylinder has no pressure on it from the clutch pedal at the resting (engaged, pedal up) position, changing the push rod or changing anything in the linkage will not do anything. Firewall flex and air in the lines will cause the clutch to engage closer to the floor, not the top of travel as is being experienced here. There should be no adjustments necessary to the clutch linkage. Is the clutch slipping? Check to see that the master cylinder push rod will slip on and off of the cross shaft lever freely without having to push or pull on the push rod. If you have to press towards the master cylinder to get the push rod hole to align with the cross shaft lever pin, that would be a problem that should be fixed. A new cross shaft lever from Ford will have no splines on it, so you would set the clutch pedal at the top stop, slide the push rod on the cross shaft lever pin then bolt down the cross shaft lever to the cross shaft to cut splines in the new lever at the proper alignment. You should make sure that there is nothing else broken that could be causing incomplete engagement of the master cylinder before installing a new cross shaft lever.

 

**on edit**
Of course Eric is right.
If the clutch is engaging/disengaging at the TOP of the stroke it is not too much play.
But when you said "theres like no clutch there" I assumed the opposite.
My apologies.





If there's not a groove worn in the actuating arm you can get the clip in the "HELP" section of most autoparts stores. Dorman/Motormite P/N 14041.
It's an assortment, you only need 1 of the 5, but it's readily available, and inexpensive.
You put it in the hole first and then pop it on the lever, otherwise you'll destroy it trying to get the "eye" over the fingers.

If the pin on the actuating arm has a groove worn in it, the new clip won't last long and you'd be better off installing a bronze bushing.

I fail to see how an adjustable pushrod can fix a torn firewall, take the slop out of the linkage or properly bleed the hydraulic system.
But maybe I don't know....

 

well i just changed the plastic bushing on the end of the clutch pedal rod the one on it was worn out and broken. didnt make to much difference pedal still grabs at the very top of the travel. looked under the trans and just above the hyd line going into the trans theres a brass nut/fitting what is this? it does not have a bleeder fitting on it could this be a bleeder? i now some guys say you cant bleed it and then some guys say u can. so i dont know..all i know is i need this thing fixed asap.thanks guys

 

It is a bleeder. So is the clutch slipping, or do you just not like where the pedal engages? Did you have to move the clutch pushrod for it to align with the peg on the lever arm when you put everything back together?

 

no its not slipping at all. yes i had to push down on the pedal to get the rod off the pedal pin. dont like were its grabing at all very hard to drive like this. not sure if its a bleeder dont see the small air fitting coming out of it maybe the clown i got the truck from broke it off..how can i tell what trans is in this truck? is there a tag on the trans? i think he changed the motor and trans so i dont think its oem

 

There were two 5-speed transmissions available during the years these trucks were made, one was made by Mazda, used in light duty trucks, and one made by ZF used in F250's and larger trucks. The Mazda has horizontal and vertical ribbing, and the ZF has diagonal ribbing on the case.

You can try to move the lever over one spline, but the clutch may not release enough to get the transmission into gear. The clutch pedal in my truck when I got it was not coming all the way out to the top of the pedal travel, which in turn was not allowing full stroke on the master cylinder. This kept the clutch from fully disengaging, making downshifts hard and making it nearly impossible to get into gear after idling in neutral at a stop light. So I installed a new cross shaft lever to allow full stroke, and while it moved the engagement point to a higher point, it allowed full clutch release and maintained full engagement as well.

If it were me, I would just try to get used to where the pedal engages as it is now, but that's just my opinion. You can try to adjust it if you want, but I don't know that it will work out as well as you hope. Also, if there is air in the lines, bleeding the air out will move the engagement point towards the top of the pedal stroke, not the other way around.