Need help with turbo blade.
Thread Starter
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Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
Will 99-03 parts work for 95. And what new seals do I need when I take the turbo out.
Thanks
Nick
Thanks
Nick
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 12,835
Likes: 3
From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
The intake wheel from a SD (wicked wheel or stock) will fit. Seals and bearings...Unknown. For reinstalling the turbo you will need the 4 0-rings for the pedestal to block and turbo to pedestal seals. Call Ron with and ask him about the seals. He will tell you for sure.
Thread Starter
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Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
High Performance Superior Turbo Compressor Wheel 7.3L Ford Powerstroke Diesel
and this
7.3L Ford Powerstroke, Turbo Pedestal O-ring Kit
Is all I need?
And you don't happen to have the Part numbers for the 4 o rings for the pedestal would ya.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
From: Burton, Texas
You'll get one package of two smaller o-rings and one package of two larger o-rings. The part numbers for my '95 were F4TZ6N653A and F4TZ6N653B. (Not sure which is smaller or larger part number.) I paid $16.13 for mine. Personally I wouldn't chance using cheaper generic o-rings. The one's I pulled out of mine were black and hard whereas the Ford units were yellow and softer. Hardness could have been due to exposure to oil and heat, but for the trouble it is to replace them, I would use Ford parts.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 779
Likes: 0
From: Burton, Texas
I used this set of instructions with this list of tools. You may also try this link if you prefer. I made these changes to the method I followed:
Skip over steps #6 and #7 and proceed directly to step #8. One thing that was left out of step #9 is to remove the EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) actuator arm from the EBPV housing by sliding back the sleeve and pull down to remove the ball from the socket. BTW, after breaking loose the rear bolt on the EBPV housing with a 5/16" combo wrench, I took an extra 8mm (same size) combo wrench and cut it in half, leaving it about 3" long. I then used this shortened box wrench to get the bolt the rest of the way out.
Disregard the last sentence in step #9 which states, "After disconnecting, slide the valve forward as far as it will go, so you can get behind the turbo." After completing step #9, place a block of wood against the EBPV housing and hit it firmly with a hammer. A couple of licks should do it. You should now be able to remove the EBPV housing. This will give you far greater access to the up pipe manifold bolts and nuts.
Perform steps #6 and #7 which you skipped over earlier.
I used the combination of tools specified in step #11 to remove the driver's side rear pedestal bolt. It was surprisingly easy, especially considering that I could neither see nor reach the bolt to place the socket by feel. Do however feel the back of the EBPV cylinder for the GROOVE, (not RIDGE as stated in the instructions.) Let your socket follow the groove down to the bolt and twist it back and forth until you feel the socket seat.
The passenger side rear pedestal bolt will now be easier to see and access since you have removed the EBPV housing. However, it's still a PITA because there is very little working room. I think that if you could find a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket, (which I cannot,) this job would be much easier. As it was, I used the some combination of tools as I did for the other rear bolt, until the bolt was out too far to use the socket any longer. Since my short fat fingers could not grip the bolt to turn it by hand, I then switched to a 10mm combo wrench and used the box end to further back the bolt out, since there was not enough room to fit the open end on the bolt. Then, when I no longer had room to slip the box end over the head of the bolt, I ground the sides down on an extra 10mm open end wrench to finish the task. A very tedious job that resulted in many small cuts, scrapes and bruises. Just that one bolt.
Skip over steps #6 and #7 and proceed directly to step #8. One thing that was left out of step #9 is to remove the EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) actuator arm from the EBPV housing by sliding back the sleeve and pull down to remove the ball from the socket. BTW, after breaking loose the rear bolt on the EBPV housing with a 5/16" combo wrench, I took an extra 8mm (same size) combo wrench and cut it in half, leaving it about 3" long. I then used this shortened box wrench to get the bolt the rest of the way out.
Disregard the last sentence in step #9 which states, "After disconnecting, slide the valve forward as far as it will go, so you can get behind the turbo." After completing step #9, place a block of wood against the EBPV housing and hit it firmly with a hammer. A couple of licks should do it. You should now be able to remove the EBPV housing. This will give you far greater access to the up pipe manifold bolts and nuts.
Perform steps #6 and #7 which you skipped over earlier.
I used the combination of tools specified in step #11 to remove the driver's side rear pedestal bolt. It was surprisingly easy, especially considering that I could neither see nor reach the bolt to place the socket by feel. Do however feel the back of the EBPV cylinder for the GROOVE, (not RIDGE as stated in the instructions.) Let your socket follow the groove down to the bolt and twist it back and forth until you feel the socket seat.
The passenger side rear pedestal bolt will now be easier to see and access since you have removed the EBPV housing. However, it's still a PITA because there is very little working room. I think that if you could find a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket, (which I cannot,) this job would be much easier. As it was, I used the some combination of tools as I did for the other rear bolt, until the bolt was out too far to use the socket any longer. Since my short fat fingers could not grip the bolt to turn it by hand, I then switched to a 10mm combo wrench and used the box end to further back the bolt out, since there was not enough room to fit the open end on the bolt. Then, when I no longer had room to slip the box end over the head of the bolt, I ground the sides down on an extra 10mm open end wrench to finish the task. A very tedious job that resulted in many small cuts, scrapes and bruises. Just that one bolt.
Thread Starter
|
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
I used this set of instructions with this list of tools. You may also try this link if you prefer. I made these changes to the method I followed:
Skip over steps #6 and #7 and proceed directly to step #8. One thing that was left out of step #9 is to remove the EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) actuator arm from the EBPV housing by sliding back the sleeve and pull down to remove the ball from the socket. BTW, after breaking loose the rear bolt on the EBPV housing with a 5/16" combo wrench, I took an extra 8mm (same size) combo wrench and cut it in half, leaving it about 3" long. I then used this shortened box wrench to get the bolt the rest of the way out.
Disregard the last sentence in step #9 which states, "After disconnecting, slide the valve forward as far as it will go, so you can get behind the turbo." After completing step #9, place a block of wood against the EBPV housing and hit it firmly with a hammer. A couple of licks should do it. You should now be able to remove the EBPV housing. This will give you far greater access to the up pipe manifold bolts and nuts.
Perform steps #6 and #7 which you skipped over earlier.
I used the combination of tools specified in step #11 to remove the driver's side rear pedestal bolt. It was surprisingly easy, especially considering that I could neither see nor reach the bolt to place the socket by feel. Do however feel the back of the EBPV cylinder for the GROOVE, (not RIDGE as stated in the instructions.) Let your socket follow the groove down to the bolt and twist it back and forth until you feel the socket seat.
The passenger side rear pedestal bolt will now be easier to see and access since you have removed the EBPV housing. However, it's still a PITA because there is very little working room. I think that if you could find a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket, (which I cannot,) this job would be much easier. As it was, I used the some combination of tools as I did for the other rear bolt, until the bolt was out too far to use the socket any longer. Since my short fat fingers could not grip the bolt to turn it by hand, I then switched to a 10mm combo wrench and used the box end to further back the bolt out, since there was not enough room to fit the open end on the bolt. Then, when I no longer had room to slip the box end over the head of the bolt, I ground the sides down on an extra 10mm open end wrench to finish the task. A very tedious job that resulted in many small cuts, scrapes and bruises. Just that one bolt.
Skip over steps #6 and #7 and proceed directly to step #8. One thing that was left out of step #9 is to remove the EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve) actuator arm from the EBPV housing by sliding back the sleeve and pull down to remove the ball from the socket. BTW, after breaking loose the rear bolt on the EBPV housing with a 5/16" combo wrench, I took an extra 8mm (same size) combo wrench and cut it in half, leaving it about 3" long. I then used this shortened box wrench to get the bolt the rest of the way out.
Disregard the last sentence in step #9 which states, "After disconnecting, slide the valve forward as far as it will go, so you can get behind the turbo." After completing step #9, place a block of wood against the EBPV housing and hit it firmly with a hammer. A couple of licks should do it. You should now be able to remove the EBPV housing. This will give you far greater access to the up pipe manifold bolts and nuts.
Perform steps #6 and #7 which you skipped over earlier.
I used the combination of tools specified in step #11 to remove the driver's side rear pedestal bolt. It was surprisingly easy, especially considering that I could neither see nor reach the bolt to place the socket by feel. Do however feel the back of the EBPV cylinder for the GROOVE, (not RIDGE as stated in the instructions.) Let your socket follow the groove down to the bolt and twist it back and forth until you feel the socket seat.
The passenger side rear pedestal bolt will now be easier to see and access since you have removed the EBPV housing. However, it's still a PITA because there is very little working room. I think that if you could find a 1/4" drive 10mm swivel socket, (which I cannot,) this job would be much easier. As it was, I used the some combination of tools as I did for the other rear bolt, until the bolt was out too far to use the socket any longer. Since my short fat fingers could not grip the bolt to turn it by hand, I then switched to a 10mm combo wrench and used the box end to further back the bolt out, since there was not enough room to fit the open end on the bolt. Then, when I no longer had room to slip the box end over the head of the bolt, I ground the sides down on an extra 10mm open end wrench to finish the task. A very tedious job that resulted in many small cuts, scrapes and bruises. Just that one bolt.
Thread Starter
|
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
NEED URGENT HELP. Got all the bolts undone from the turbo to the bock and every thing else I can see and we still can't get the turbo out of the truck. We can wiggle it left and right but we can't go up and down at all. Any help is verry apreciated,
Thanks
Nick
Thanks
Nick
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Thread Starter
|
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
NEED URGENT HELP. Got all the bolts undone from the turbo to the bock and every thing else I can see and we still can't get the turbo out of the truck. We can wiggle it left and right but we can't go up and down at all. Any help is verry apreciated,
Thanks
Nick
P.S If some one would like to call me to help out my number is 1-925-818-5707
Thanks
Nick
P.S If some one would like to call me to help out my number is 1-925-818-5707
Posting Guru
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,014
Likes: 1
From: Long Island, NY
Thread Starter
|
Master of Strokes
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 25
From: CA
Ok I missed the drivers side pedestal bolt but I can't see it or get to it. Any tips on how to get to it? There seems to be a Gold thing also in the way. What is that
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
Likes: 1
From: MICHIGAN
Assemble this contraption:
1/4" drive 10 mm socket
1/4" drive flex joint
1/4" to 3/8" adapter
3/8" wobble
3/8" extension — about 8" (I used two, a 3 & a 5, that gave me lots of options getting to hard places)
Noton72 already posted this link above:
http://superdutydiesel.com/wiki/tiki-read_article.php?articleId=43]TikiWiki : Turbo removal 1994.5-1997 PowerStrokes[/SIZE]
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