front end issues
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front end issues
So I just put my new tires on, and wanted to get it aligned. I took it to the shop, and they told me they wouldn't do it because my drag link, right inner and outer tie rod end, and all ball joints needed replaced. They quoted me 1100 for all parts and labor and I'm pretty sure I had a panic attack. Well I went shopping around and picked up all the parts for just a hair over 300. I already got the drag link, and tie rod ends replaced. Now I have to take care of the ball joints. I already rented the ball joint press, and socket tool to get the spindal off. Any other tools or advice before I tackle this project? Any write ups on this procedure? Thanks for all input!
Core
Core
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
it sounds like you have it pretty well coverd. sometimes the spindle gets rusty and stuck, dont be afraid to give it a good solid whack with a hammer. just be sure you dont hit the part that the bearing ride on...lol other then that its pretty straight foreward.... also check the u-joints since you will have it all apart.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
The u-joints are the joints in the axle shaft that allow 4wd to work while turning. Once you get the wheel bearings, hub and stub housing off you will need to pull the axle shaft. The cross there that connects the two halves is the u-joint. They will be $15-25 for parts and just time.
Joe's advice is about hitting the stub housing is good. I have been known to use a sledge hammer. JUST DON'T hit the bearing surface. Hit the "step" between the two.
Also this is a good time to repack the wheel bearings and grease seals
Joe's advice is about hitting the stub housing is good. I have been known to use a sledge hammer. JUST DON'T hit the bearing surface. Hit the "step" between the two.
Also this is a good time to repack the wheel bearings and grease seals
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do most auto parts places carry the u-joints in stock, or will they have to be ordered. I'm tryin to get it set up so I can get this project done tomarrow night after class. I have another appointment for an alignment for wednesday morning, and I have to work wednesday night, so she's gotta be done.
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From: taunton , ma
any auto parts store will have them, I had a friend hold a big block of wood on the top of the spindle and hit that with the sledgehammer But thats just my idea because i'm that kinda guy that would miss and whack the spindle right where the bearing rides
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
yes most stores should have them in stock. Here are the napa parts numbers
232 (greaseable) or 231 (non greaseable)
Left (driverside) will require 1 and the right (passenger) will require 2 if they are bad. The right inner is a nightmare to do! It has to be done on the truck unless you want tear down the front differential. The easiest way is to cut the cross out with a torch then press the caps out and reinstalled the new joint. Hope and pray its not bad!
To tell if the joints are bad they should have no looseness in the caps. It should not slop back and forth. Also it should have free movement on both axis. If its tight then it should be replaced.
232 (greaseable) or 231 (non greaseable)
Left (driverside) will require 1 and the right (passenger) will require 2 if they are bad. The right inner is a nightmare to do! It has to be done on the truck unless you want tear down the front differential. The easiest way is to cut the cross out with a torch then press the caps out and reinstalled the new joint. Hope and pray its not bad!
To tell if the joints are bad they should have no looseness in the caps. It should not slop back and forth. Also it should have free movement on both axis. If its tight then it should be replaced.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2007
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From: Belair md
the inner is a peice of cake! tim, you nailed that one, all you need is a torch to cut it in half, watch out for any hot grease that may be left inside, it will come spraying out if not careful
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Well they are deffinately shot. I don't have access to a torch, so I'm prayin it'll be ok. It was a texas truck up till a year ago, so it's only really had one winter. I just called advanced auto, and they have the u-joints in stock and only cost $14. Hopefully it's the right one they quoted me. Guess I'll find out in the morning.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
It can be done with just the press but its a bit more difficult. Also make sure when your going back in the new ones makes sure the needle bearings stay where they are supposed to. Other wise bad things happen!
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: College Station, Texas
Actually the funny thing is i just had all the stuff you have wrong done today except everything was bad. Upper and lower ball joints both sides, two tie rod ends, and U joints and it wasnt too bad expensive I think i got out of it for about what you got quoted with my tires included. 
Sounds about right i think?
Sounds about right i think?
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so I got everything tore down to get the ball joints off and I couldn't get the nuts broke loose. So I decided to put everything back together and wait till I have more time to deal with it. However, I can't remember where the washers and things go when reassembling the hub. anyone got pics or instructions to help me out?
