Recently got an oil change done and noticed the truck was running a little rough. The drain plug had a tiny leak and I checked the level and it was above the checked section, went back and they put a new crush washer on the drain plug by using a shop vac at the oil fill tube to keep the oil from draining out Never saw that before.
Right after I left the truck ran like crap, no power felt like it was missing etc. Limped it home and Next morning it ran a little better but was still running rough.

I came on here and the only thing I could find that seemed to make sense was the UVC connectors. Maybe the shop vac loosened it??

Was able to get to the drivers side plug and got the following reading (not an electrical person) 0 on first one, 3.5 second one, 12? on third one and 3.5 on fourth one. Not sure what all I have to do to get to the pass side connector. Also have a po672 code which is supposedly a bad glow plug, but had that before the oil change.

Any help or advise would be appreciated.

 

Yah that is a Glow plug # 2 code... You should run for other codes too though

 

I've never considered the possibility of negative consequences using a shop vac on a partially loose UVCH connector. If it did cause a problem, I would suspect it would be on the passenger side, since that's where the shop vac was stuck.

When you ohmed the pins on the drivers side, did you start with the first pin toward the front, or the 3rd one? Did you have the other lead on the center pin on the connector?

I'd recommend doing the test a couple of more times to see if you get the same readings. Injectors are usually around 3.2 - 3.5 ohms. I use a small alligator clip with a wire attached to grab the center pin so it's easier to probe the injector pins.

What did you use to pull the codes? Can you do a buzz test with that?

 

I've never considered the possibility of negative consequences using a shop vac on a partially loose UVCH connector. If it did cause a problem, I would suspect it would be on the passenger side, since that's where the shop vac was stuck.

I couldn't come with another reason for the horrible way it ran right afterward, maybe it pulled oil up into the connector that drained back and that it why it is not as bad the next day????

When you ohmed the pins on the drivers side, did you start with the first pin toward the front, or the 3rd one? Did you have the other lead on the center pin on the connector?

Started with the farthest from the front which had no reading and worked my way forward, tried it several times with the same readings. Did the clip thing as I don't see any way to hold the probes at the same time tried it until I gave up and grabbed my alligator clips

What did you use to pull the codes? Can you do a buzz test with that?
My hypertech pulled the codes for me, so I don't think it can do a buzz test

Any tips on getting to the pass plug?

 

Did they put the right oil in it ?

 

Rotella and Motorcraft Filter, gave it to them my self and watched the whole thing

 

I have a harder time trying to do the drivers side, so in my opinion, you've already done the difficult side. They are both a pain though. I'll give you that.

If you start at the farthest pin from the front (back pin #9) that's a glow plug wire. So is the one next to it #8. The first two pins near the front are glow plug wires also (#1 & #2). The pins to ohm for the injectors are #3, #4, #6, & #7. The #5 pin is the common that you test the injectors against.

If you want to ohm the glow plug wires, place the neg. lead on the meter on the battery ground.

A loose clip under the valve cover (or a loose injector wire) will usually throw a P1316 code that your hypertech can pick up.

Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick? Low oil can cause problems without throwing a code.

 

I started with the farthest injector pin didn't test the glow plug ones

I may test the glow plug ones too thanks for the way to test them

A loose clip under the valve cover (or a loose injector wire) will usually throw a P1316 code that your hypertech can pick up.

So do we think it is a bad injector since it has no reading at all?

Have you checked the oil level on the dipstick?

Yes at first it was too high and then adjusted it to the right amount

 

No reading on the ohm meter could mean a loose clip, unplugged injector, or shorted wire, but it's been my experience that any of those conditions, along with a bad injector or a bad injector solenoid will throw an IDM code.

The other possiblilty is that your hypertech is only picking up the OBDII codes which is why you can see the glow plug code, but it's not picking up the engine codes.

If you're not looking to spend money having someone else diagnose it, I'd say the next step is to find a way to get those leads onto the passenger side pins. If you get good readings on the passenger side, then it's time for the valve cover on the drivers side to come off.

It will take time to pull the valve cover, but once you're in there, the fix will be easy. If it's a loose plug at the connector, there is a retainer clip available to prevent this from happening again. I trimmed down a quarter to use as a shim instead of buying the retainer clips.

If you have to pull the valve cover, I'd also recommend retorquing the rocker arm pedestal bolts to 20 ft-lbs, and the injector hold down bolts to 120 in-lbs. Of course I followed another members advice on pulling the valve covers for no other reason than to torque these. It's some of the best advice I've received.

 

Tested the other side and it came back fine, the drivers side had 2 glow plugs that didn't show anything and another injector now show 0. Thinking its the plug working its way loose???

Doesn't look to involved to pull the cover and guess I should replace the glow plugs on that side while I'm in there, opinion?

Any tips on pulling the cover, notice I have to pull the turbo inlet and air intake.

Saw the other post saying the code was for glow plug #2 which side would that be on?

 

You noticed some rough running just after the oil change? Does that not rule out the shop vac?
On another thought, could the shop vac have aerated the oil enough to cause problems with the HPOP? Doubtful, but a thought. If it is idling rough, unplug the ICP sensor and see if it smooths out the idle. May be just a coincidence that the problem came with an oil change

 

Cylinder #2 is the one in front on the drivers side. Pulling the valve cover isn't too bad. You will need a swivel adapter for your socket to get one bolt out that's next to the firewall. Pull the IC tube, pull the intake hose, unscrew the bolt in the 42 pin connector, and unplug it, then remove the valve cover bolts. Bad readings on the ohm meter from both glow plugs and injectors, along with the truck running like it's not firing on all cylinders does point to the UVCH connector coming loose.

 

I'm sorry I never thanked you for all your help, guess I was so happy for it to be fixed and driveable again Going to try and send you rep points. Thanks agin

 

Glad to hear you got it goin good!!! Hey you should check out your local southern Ca. chapter here on on FTE...
heres the link:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum103/

 

Thanks I will check them out