Turbo Removal Help

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Oct 12, 2008 | 12:20 PM

paddler

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More Turbo

Joined: Dec 2002

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From: Columbia, MD

Turbo Removal Help

I nee to pull my turbo to install a new exhaust housing (Banks Powerpack kit). Downpipe is out, exhaust-housing-to-exhaust-flange bolts and nuts are out, and 3 of the 4 pedestal mounting bolts are loose. So here's the problem:

Where is the driver's side rear pedestal bolt? I've felt around, and looked around with a mirror, but can't find it. I've removed the fuel filter cover support, and can see the larger nut next to it, but I gather that's not what I'm looking for. There are two bolts close by angling down into the head, but again, I don't think those are what I'm looking for.

The diagram in the kit conveniently obscures the 4th bolt.

I gather I'm looking for anther 10 mm head bolt, that goes straight down. I haven't found anything around the driver's end of the EBPV cylinder, or around the exhaust pipe or fuel (?) line that enters the rear of the driver's side head.

Any thoughts on where this bolt is relative to other landmarks, the direction it points, and whether it's at roughly the same level as the other 3, or much lower?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Oct 12, 2008 | 01:15 PM

Cuda_jim

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Joined: Oct 2003

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From: MICHIGAN

You will need 1/4 drive 10mm and a couple extensions...then adapt it up to 3/8 for leverage.
It's can be a PITA to get loose but is doable.
Be sure to use a 6 point so you don't rond off the head.

This picture is looking forward from the rear of the engine.

Oct 12, 2008 | 03:19 PM

kawa

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From: Rogue River, OR

A Good quality 1/4" 6 pt SWIVEL is a great help as well and should not break but it will probably make it really loosey goosey.

Rog

Oct 12, 2008 | 03:53 PM

FARM69

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From: Kearney, Nebr

Quote:

Originally Posted by kawa

A Good quality 1/4" 6 pt SWIVEL is a great help as well and should not break but it will probably make it really loosey goosey.

Rog

x2. Thats what did the trick for me. It halso helps if you have long fingers to reach around from the passenger side.

Oct 12, 2008 | 05:40 PM

paddler

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More Turbo

Joined: Dec 2002

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From: Columbia, MD

It's Out!

Thanks for the help, guys!

10 mm 6-point 1/4" drive swivel socket (Craftsman), some extensions, and reaching around behind the exhaust from the passenger side. Something down there felt right for a bolt head, and the socket fit on it. Little 3/8" breaker bar, a block of wood against the firewall to anchor the head of the breaker bar, and a pipe for more leverage broke it free. Swapped a ratchet for the breaker bar to finish getting it out. PITA s a bit of an understatement.

New turbine housing is on the unit, anti-sieze on all mating surfaces and the bolts. I chased the bolt threads with a die and washed them in solvent before reinstalling.

I usually don't go for the brand-name tools for sockets and ratchets, but working around the turbo is tight quarters and high torque... so quality tools are worth it here.

Tomorrow's plan is attacking the firewall seam. With some luck, I'll get the downpipe in and the turbo back on, and get the truck back in service for a while. The intercooler, transmission chip, and engine chip can wait a while.

Oct 12, 2008 | 07:59 PM

kawa

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Joined: Jun 2007

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From: Rogue River, OR

Good job, that bolt cracked like a rifle shot when it broke loose didn't it??

Rog

Oct 12, 2008 | 09:27 PM

paddler

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More Turbo

Joined: Dec 2002

Posts: 664

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From: Columbia, MD

No drama

Actually, no loud noises with any of the fasteners. The pedestal bolts weren't corroded and didn't take excessively large torques to pop... they just kind of mushed free. The issue was getting a tool on the bolts, then getting an angle and swing room to apply some torque. With all the flex in the cobbled-together drive line, the torque unloaded real quick once the bolt moved. Even the exhaust flange fasteners let loose gradually... though some took quite a bit of torque.

I usually associate rifle-crack with something breaking... and not in a good way. So no drama was welcome.

But I did strip a Craftsman ratcheting box-end wrench... the little 8 mm wasn't up to poping the the 12-point bolts on the backpressure valve and turbine housings. That one's going back for warranty replacement.