When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 1990 F-150 4.9l 5speed 4x4 and I would like to add tow hooks on both ends in a manner that will not adversly effect the truck if they get used hard. Any suggestions as to what the best type are, the best mounting procedure and where to get them?
Thanx in advance.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 15-Mar-01 AT 02:17 PM (EST)[/font][p]Never mind. I found them at JC Whitney and http://www.tooldealz.com/towhook.html :-).
I do still have one question.
Is there a problem with mounting them directly to the frame? I read something that said there were problems with that but did not go into any detail.
Actually, the frame is the ONLY place you want to mount them. If you bolt them on, make sure to drill the proper size hole so there's no (incoming highly technical term) wobble, as this could allow the hooks to move when being pulled on and possibly stretch the holes. Best bet is to weld them on, but properly bolting them on works just fine as well.
Agreed. You want to bolt them on with grade 8 bolts rather than welding. There have been some dramatic failures with tow hooks welded onto the frame. D-rings are always a good option as well.
If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.
'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE390 @ 400hp(purt near!), 4-speed, custom suspension w 4" lift, mud on black.
[font size="1" color="#FF0000"]LAST EDITED ON 19-Mar-01 AT 10:25 PM (EST)[/font][p] If you got hooks from JC then your best bet is to bolt them through the provided holes and just use them for looks. If you want something to pull your truck out then get some serious metal (1 inch round stock bent into a hook ) and have a welder weld them to the frame. Whoever says this is a bad idea obviously doesn't know how to weld, or is to cheap to pay a welder. I have pulled and snatched a lot with mine with no problem.
I agree with not welding the hooks to the frame. You should not weld on a frame anyways. Go with bolts and torque them correctly and you should be set.
Dustin Siebert
mrlaserboy(No Email Addresses In Posts!)
Registry: http://www.superford.org/cgi-bin/sf.cgi?uid=default&vr2=1&ID=201
Home Page: http://www.superford.org/users/ylobronc/index.html
'88 Bronco XLT 302EFI/AOD/BW1356/44IFS with 8 lugs(open)/10.25 FF(Lockright locker)/4.56/6" Superlift/2" BL/35's-street/38.5's-trails
2 BIG BRONCOS 4X4 CLUB - GREAT LAKES CHAPTER http://www.2bigbroncos.org
Sigh. And now its time for a little physics lesson for p3i. The problem with welding tow hooks onto a frame is not the quality of the welds, but that the application of that much heat weakens the surrounding metal. Its all about temper. Just like applying enough heat to a steel blade will ruin its temper and weaken it, so will it your trucks frame. Does this mean that a tow hook welded to your frame will neccesarily break? Not at all. Does it mean that anything welded is weak or will break? No, provided it was welded properly. However, it does mean that a welded tow hook will give before one applied with grade 8 bolts. School is out.
If your knuckles ain't bleeding you did something wrong.
'72 F-250 "Hi-Boy" 4x4, Dana 60/HD44, FE390 @ 400hp(purt near!), 4-speed, custom suspension w 4" lift, mud on black.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.