The complete slider kit comes with everything, glass, seals, the whole tamale, including that el cheapo POS plastic window latch, that breaks when you look at it.

We attended the F100 SuperNats in Knoxville last May. After it ended, we drove the Blue Ridge Parkway (BRP) north from Asheville. Ran into several detours, finally exited at Boone. The main drag in that town looks like something one sees here...strip malls, Mickey D's and other assorted kitsch.

The Park Service sez the Gov't is dragging its feet (where's FDR when we need him?), and won't have the bridge and other road hazards repaired on the BRP for two more years.

In the past, we've driven the BRP (& Skyline Drive) round trip from Front Royal to Natural Bridge, round trip on the segment from Asheville to Cherokee.

 

Ah, you missunderstand. The seals mentioned are to repair your old slider, if you decide to just replace the glass in your broken one.

D3TZ10420A28A.. Back Window Seal-Grey Vinyl. This seal is for the sliding part of the glass. goes vertically from the top to the bottom of the window, and seals the sliding section to the non-sliding section. Two required for each side.

D3TZ10422A68A... Back Window Glass Side Seal. I beleive this is the seal that seals the immovable glass to the frame.

Then the two horizontal run (Seals) that the sliding glass section moves along at the bottom and top, inside the channel.

Great news if you want to attempt to repair an old slider.

The kit as mentioned before has equivalant seals, and the frame and glass too.

 

Out of luck on the slider glass at Alan Vester Ford. Number Dummy: Although the Ford parts finder site says they have one, the guys in their part shop can't locate it. Thanks for helping me out anyway.

Other option of the glass shop in my town buying a piece of safety glass and cutting to size won't work either - they are not confident about being able to cut it.

Looks like a piece of Lexan may be the cheapest/easiest option.

 

They may not be able to cut tempered glass, but they most likely can cut laminated glass. Laminated is also safety glass.

Laminated safety glass is made up of two thin pieces of glass with a sheet of plastic sandwiched in between. Ford used it for decades, at least thru the 1970's.

According to the Ford dealer parts locator system, Alan Vester Ford shows that sliding rear window kit as of 10/06/2008...call them back, get the parts manager on the phone.

Some of today's partsguy's are so dumb, it wouldn't surprise me if they were looking in a drawer for that glass. I'm not kidding, some of these guys are clucks!

Most of today's partsmen are not really partsmen at all, they're computer certified techs.

Today, all these peeps gotta do, is type the VIN into the 'puter from the vehicle they are working on. ALL the part numbers come up, so there is no parts catalog needed.

This is another reason most of these clucks shine you on when you ask for older parts.

The VIN system doesn't work on anything prior to the late 1980's, so part numbers have to be looked up in catalogs.

Most of these clucks don't know diddly, and couldn't tell an older Ford truck from a Chebbie.

 

Nice idea - thanks for the tip, but a couple questions:

1. Presume you didn't use the more expensive Lexan - it doesn't seem to bend as well.

2. The factory glass is 0.190 inches, and you can get plexiglass in 0.250" cast thickness that is about 0.190 inches nominal (e.g. dried). Problem is, that thick a plexiglass doesn't flex and bend as well. I'm guessing you might have used the 0.080 inch stuff - its the thinnest that Lowes sells. Let me know which you used - probably doesn't matter, but I have a HD next to the Lowes. All Lowes had was the 0.250" and the 0.080", nothing in between. That 0.080 stuff looks like it'd bend right in, but also would have some 'slop' since it's not as thick as the original.

3. Last question - how did you cut it. I know you can cut plexiglass by scoring and snapping off, but that back glass is rounded and has non-square edges. Can you use a RotoZip on it (like a Dremel and cuts perpendicular to the material)? Or would you still have to use a scoring tool and carefully make angled and curved scores? I think you might be able to sand plexiglass on edges too?

Thanks-sorry for long message

 

PM sent on this repair. It was very easy and inexpensive to do.

 

I went to a swap meet yesterday and I saw an OEM NOS sliding back window for $60. I offered him $50 and I took it home. Still in the box!

 

Wow, awesome deal! I wish I could find deals like that.

 

i have both sliders(GLASS,LATCH AND TRACK) and drivers side stationary ( GLASS ONLY NO ALUMINUM ) pm me if needed will seperate for shipping plus what ever you think they are worth.